Replacing Fuel Pump
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Mt. Pleasant SC
Replacing Fuel Pump
Sorry for the dup...I put this in the wrong forum.
I have a 73 (350 SB) and want to replace the fuel pump. I've not done this before, but I learn quickly. Does anyone have some easy to follow procedures, cautions, etc. that I might use for this procedure. Thanks in advance.
I have a 73 (350 SB) and want to replace the fuel pump. I've not done this before, but I learn quickly. Does anyone have some easy to follow procedures, cautions, etc. that I might use for this procedure. Thanks in advance.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Not too much to go wrong with this swap. Just unbolt and disconnect the fuel lines and bolt the new one in. Be careful to position the fuel pump lever into the block the way the old one came out so it will pump fuel.
Bernie
Bernie
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Neenah WI
A little trick I learned when I rebuilt my 69 350 (383). Put a touch of greas on the rod and it will stay in the block long enough for you to put the pump in. (granted you have the same set up) Took me 2 min to put my fuel pump back on.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Bend, Oregon
You have a fuel pump rod that is run from the cam to the lever on the pump. Make sure that the fuel pump lever is under the rod. I have used a little grease on the rod to make sure that it does not slip down and fall under the lever.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 18
From: Lake Ozark, MO
With the rod in place rotate the engine "a little" so the rod is furthest up in the recess. It will help take some of the pressure off the pump arm and make bolting it back in easier otherwise you're fighting the pump arm spring tension while trying to get the bolts started. Now is the time to put on new rubber fuel line if the old coming from the metal lines is showing some wear.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
With the rod in place rotate the engine "a little" so the rod is furthest up in the recess. It will help take some of the pressure off the pump arm and make bolting it back in easier otherwise you're fighting the pump arm spring tension while trying to get the bolts started. Now is the time to put on new rubber fuel line if the old coming from the metal lines is showing some wear.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Mt. Pleasant SC
Originally Posted by youwish2bme
I've found that grease will work but why bother. Before you remove the fuel pump just remove the bolt that is in the front of the block and insert a longer bolt to hold the rod up while you remove and reinstall the pump.. Remember to get you a new gasket for the pump to block plate connection and a tube of Permatex #2. Apply a little layer of Permatex #2 to both sides of the gasket and install the pump. I've found the easiest way to get the pump in and out is to lay it down on the edge of the a-arm and the tie rod. Then remove from below,re-install is opposite. Many have stated to access the pump bolts to take off the wheel and access thru the fender.. Easier is just to use a 9/16 socket, universal joint then the 8" extension. If you have the radio shielding installed remove the shield for plugs 1 and 3 and you will have more than enough access. Don't forget to clamp the rubber line either at the tank or if not changing the rubber line clamp it right there at the pump.. Don't use visegrips b/c you have a chance of putting a slice in the line it may not break right now but it will weaking the soft line. I usually use the 5 dollar brake line clamps that don't damage the line... Dave.
Chris
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
RTV will not hold up in this situation.. Just went thru this yesterday.. I was leaking oil around the fuel pump and just did all that I discribed.. Trust me go spend the 2 dollars on the Permatex #2... Dave.. Just noticed I said plugs 1 and 3 I ment to say 2 and 4... Opps... CRS at an early age...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Mt. Pleasant SC
Originally Posted by youwish2bme
RTV will not hold up in this situation.. Just went thru this yesterday.. I was leaking oil around the fuel pump and just did all that I discribed.. Trust me go spend the 2 dollars on the Permatex #2... Dave.. Just noticed I said plugs 1 and 3 I ment to say 2 and 4... Opps... CRS at an early age...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
Permatex #2 and either use grease or use bolt. Don't forget to do a visual on the end of the rod that touchs the cam to check for excessive wear. If rod shows excessive wear then cam is probably also showing wear. Replacing rod is a short term, quick fix but long term you might be getting that nice cam you've always wanted. 
