Spals installed - Finally TEST DRIVEN!
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Spals installed - Finally TEST DRIVEN!
Seem too excited? Well remember, this saga began two months ago when I rebuilt the front suspension! I pulled the OEM shroud then, and subsequently put on a single Zirgo, then wrote a bunch of posts about how to get the stroker motor to run cool enough , and built a shroud etc.
Well now it has two Spal fans and let me tell ya - it runs COOL!
Odd behavour though - in traffic they run 90% ON time, but my engine temp is 185* or so. Seems like they could relax a bit, and let it get up to 195* or so, just before the halfway point on the gauge.
I drove it to the radiator shop that custom-built the radiator and they verified the temps with a radar gun. Radiator (after a half hour drive) was 185* and the water neck was 165* so I think it's
and also 
for now.
I think this chapter is licked.
The spal fans came with wiring that was fitted with crimp connectors. I cut them off where possible and soldered, but there are still a couple of crimp connections in the system. Any thoughts on that? Also, was SPAL the manufacturer that had problems a couple months back, with the inline fuses catching fire? Or was that Flexalite or another mfgr?
Well now it has two Spal fans and let me tell ya - it runs COOL!
Odd behavour though - in traffic they run 90% ON time, but my engine temp is 185* or so. Seems like they could relax a bit, and let it get up to 195* or so, just before the halfway point on the gauge.
I drove it to the radiator shop that custom-built the radiator and they verified the temps with a radar gun. Radiator (after a half hour drive) was 185* and the water neck was 165* so I think it's
and also for now.I think this chapter is licked.
The spal fans came with wiring that was fitted with crimp connectors. I cut them off where possible and soldered, but there are still a couple of crimp connections in the system. Any thoughts on that? Also, was SPAL the manufacturer that had problems a couple months back, with the inline fuses catching fire? Or was that Flexalite or another mfgr?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Do you have AC on your car? I have the spals and still get some high temps (with new aluminum radiator) on the highway on hot days with AC. I think it is an airflow problem or other problem due to my tired motor.
I had flexilites before the spals and the fuse is melted into the holder, but have had no such problem with the SPals.
I had flexilites before the spals and the fuse is melted into the holder, but have had no such problem with the SPals.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Do you have AC on your car? I have the spals and still get some high temps (with new aluminum radiator) on the highway on hot days with AC. I think it is an airflow problem or other problem due to my tired motor.
I had flexilites before the spals and the fuse is melted into the holder, but have had no such problem with the SPals.
BTW, I wired one of the spals to a manual switch and the toher to the temp sensor. Often just the one fan does the trick, and I can switch on the other as necessary.
I had flexilites before the spals and the fuse is melted into the holder, but have had no such problem with the SPals.
BTW, I wired one of the spals to a manual switch and the toher to the temp sensor. Often just the one fan does the trick, and I can switch on the other as necessary.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,434
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St. Jude Donor '07
i got my fan from the junk yard its about 12 inches in diameter and from like a super charged buick. i can fell the air being sucked through but i havent drove it yetit probally wil when my card torque conveter and starter come in.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
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From: Smile, it's just the internet.
I believe the switch is set to turn the fans ON at 185 and OFF at 165 (or, optionally 195/175). I'd guess that your cooling system is incapable of cooling below 165 when stationary. Are all you seals intact? Any chance the Spals are pulling any hot, engine-compartment-air in by accident?
I never paid attention to how much mine run...can't hear them over the sidepipes....
Regardless, and happy driving!
I never paid attention to how much mine run...can't hear them over the sidepipes....
Regardless,
and happy driving!
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 669
From: FL
I have a 195/175 switch and a 180 Robert Shaw hi flo stat. Mine will usually run for no more than 5 minutes in traffic if at all.
Where did you get your kit from and what switch did they sell you? I got mine from BeCool.
Where did you get your kit from and what switch did they sell you? I got mine from BeCool.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by SteveG75
I have a 195/175 switch and a 180 Robert Shaw hi flo stat. Mine will usually run for no more than 5 minutes in traffic if at all.
Where did you get your kit from and what switch did they sell you? I got mine from BeCool.
Where did you get your kit from and what switch did they sell you? I got mine from BeCool.
Sounds like the switch I need. Mine is a 185/165 ...
Vendor is an official Spal dealer (purch from Ebay) and all the packages say SPAL right on them.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 669
From: FL
Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
Sounds like the switch I need. Mine is a 185/165 ...
Vendor is an official Spal dealer (purch from Ebay) and all the packages say SPAL right on them.
Vendor is an official Spal dealer (purch from Ebay) and all the packages say SPAL right on them.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
Seem too excited? Well remember, this saga began two months ago when I rebuilt the front suspension! I pulled the OEM shroud then, and subsequently put on a single Zirgo, then wrote a bunch of posts about how to get the stroker motor to run cool enough , and built a shroud etc.
Well now it has two Spal fans and let me tell ya - it runs COOL!
Odd behavour though - in traffic they run 90% ON time, but my engine temp is 185* or so. Seems like they could relax a bit, and let it get up to 195* or so, just before the halfway point on the gauge.
I drove it to the radiator shop that custom-built the radiator and they verified the temps with a radar gun. Radiator (after a half hour drive) was 185* and the water neck was 165* so I think it's and also for now.
I think this chapter is licked.
The spal fans came with wiring that was fitted with crimp connectors. I cut them off where possible and soldered, but there are still a couple of crimp connections in the system. Any thoughts on that? Also, was SPAL the manufacturer that had problems a couple months back, with the inline fuses catching fire? Or was that Flexalite or another mfgr?
Well now it has two Spal fans and let me tell ya - it runs COOL!
Odd behavour though - in traffic they run 90% ON time, but my engine temp is 185* or so. Seems like they could relax a bit, and let it get up to 195* or so, just before the halfway point on the gauge.
I drove it to the radiator shop that custom-built the radiator and they verified the temps with a radar gun. Radiator (after a half hour drive) was 185* and the water neck was 165* so I think it's
and also for now.I think this chapter is licked.
The spal fans came with wiring that was fitted with crimp connectors. I cut them off where possible and soldered, but there are still a couple of crimp connections in the system. Any thoughts on that? Also, was SPAL the manufacturer that had problems a couple months back, with the inline fuses catching fire? Or was that Flexalite or another mfgr?
I love the desert but with this BB, DeWitt's aluminum radiator, and dual Spals, and 105 degree temps, the motor runs about 210 degrees...
The entire car then suffers from heat soak from stopping and going, so the fuel is boiling in the fuel bowls...... The real test would be out on the open road with no traffic to deal with.
Any way you look at it, the Spals work very well!!!!
Bob
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
Originally Posted by Bob Turner
Congrats on getting it cooling the way you want!
I love the desert but with this BB, DeWitt's aluminum radiator, and dual Spals, and 105 degree temps, the motor runs about 210 degrees...
The entire car then suffers from heat soak from stopping and going, so the fuel is boiling in the fuel bowls
I love the desert but with this BB, DeWitt's aluminum radiator, and dual Spals, and 105 degree temps, the motor runs about 210 degrees...
The entire car then suffers from heat soak from stopping and going, so the fuel is boiling in the fuel bowls
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 971
Likes: 0
From: Rockwood TN
I fabricated an aluminum shroud and use a 14 and 12 inch fans runs dead on 180. But when I first did it I didn't worry with the radiator seal and it ran up to 225 in a heartbeat, make sure the radiator is sealed completly. Good to hear you're running cool. 
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by CGGorman
I believe the switch is set to turn the fans ON at 185 and OFF at 165 (or, optionally 195/175). I'd guess that your cooling system is incapable of cooling below 165 when stationary. Are all you seals intact? Any chance the Spals are pulling any hot, engine-compartment-air in by accident?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Originally Posted by zwede
Yep. Had the same problem here in Dallas with fuel boiling and vapor lock. EFI fixed it right up though.
Bob
