Frame rust...in a different area...
#1
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Frame rust...in a different area...
Alright, well I've discovered some rather bad rust on my 72, but it hasn't spread much and I'm worrying just how big a deal it is...
Basically, for a few inches of the frame in front of the rear tires...well, it's in baaad shape. It doesn't extend to the crossbrace that goes from the side rails (i.e. along the doors) to the rear crossmember. But for those few inches...it's bad. There are a bunch of large chunks/plates of rust sitting inside the rail, presumably from the inside, both top and bottom. On the right side it's especially bad, as there's a split through it...when I used my scissor jack on this area to change my spare tire, a decently large section of it kinda bent up. I've been hoping that because of the crossbrace that is perfectly intact, I don't have to put my car away for 15 years until I can do a frame-off I'll take some pics and post them up when I can...but I need to know how bad it is.
The rest of the frame is fine, no other rust problems whatsoever, really quite solid all around.
*EDIT* After looking at some pics...it seems like the crossbrace I'm talking about isn't supposed to be there? Perhaps the previous owner had this brace welded in so that the rust in this area wouldn't make a difference, as long as it was stopped? I edited a pic of someone's frame so you guys know what I'm talking about...where the yellow boxes are, there is basically a normal frame rail welded in...
Basically, for a few inches of the frame in front of the rear tires...well, it's in baaad shape. It doesn't extend to the crossbrace that goes from the side rails (i.e. along the doors) to the rear crossmember. But for those few inches...it's bad. There are a bunch of large chunks/plates of rust sitting inside the rail, presumably from the inside, both top and bottom. On the right side it's especially bad, as there's a split through it...when I used my scissor jack on this area to change my spare tire, a decently large section of it kinda bent up. I've been hoping that because of the crossbrace that is perfectly intact, I don't have to put my car away for 15 years until I can do a frame-off I'll take some pics and post them up when I can...but I need to know how bad it is.
The rest of the frame is fine, no other rust problems whatsoever, really quite solid all around.
*EDIT* After looking at some pics...it seems like the crossbrace I'm talking about isn't supposed to be there? Perhaps the previous owner had this brace welded in so that the rust in this area wouldn't make a difference, as long as it was stopped? I edited a pic of someone's frame so you guys know what I'm talking about...where the yellow boxes are, there is basically a normal frame rail welded in...
Last edited by 72Tornado; 06-30-2005 at 01:08 PM.
#3
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Originally Posted by Stewart's74
The "Gussets" Highlighted in yellow ARE supposed to be there.
This is a VERY common spot for Rust.
This is a VERY common spot for Rust.
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Rust flakes can be very misleading. Steel can expand to 64 times its size with rust. As it is a horizontal surface it is a trap for dirt and eventually rust.
The fact that that brace bent when you put a jack on it just means you jacked the wrong place. It is a brace not a jack point.
Its only steel. Cut it out and weld in some new pieces. Make up a cardboard template of the steel you need and take it to steel supplier and get him to cut them for you with his ***** steel guillitene. Get you new pieces as thick as possible. Thickness = rigidity and longevity. Weld in new pieces. If your frame is off it should be easy. If not it will be a handful but can be done. You should get out of it for under $30 if you have access to a welder. Once you are done POR-15 that steel. Etch it with OSMO or Metal Ready before you paint.
The fact that that brace bent when you put a jack on it just means you jacked the wrong place. It is a brace not a jack point.
Its only steel. Cut it out and weld in some new pieces. Make up a cardboard template of the steel you need and take it to steel supplier and get him to cut them for you with his ***** steel guillitene. Get you new pieces as thick as possible. Thickness = rigidity and longevity. Weld in new pieces. If your frame is off it should be easy. If not it will be a handful but can be done. You should get out of it for under $30 if you have access to a welder. Once you are done POR-15 that steel. Etch it with OSMO or Metal Ready before you paint.
#5
From what you discribe you may have major problems, You need to slide your hand up both sides of the frame where they attach to Rear crossmember to see how sound that area is also use a hammer and screw driver in that area to see if you can punch thru, If so you have major problems. I found out mine was bad by jacking up the rear end and putting jack stands in the rear corners of the frame then lower it slowly if your frame is bad it will sag in the rear and deflect in the corners. Hope this not going to happen for you. Frames are out there if you need one but shop hard i found mine on ebay for $178.00 soild with light rust. Good Luck John
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Originally Posted by stingry
Rust flakes can be very misleading. Steel can expand to 64 times its size with rust. As it is a horizontal surface it is a trap for dirt and eventually rust.
The fact that that brace bent when you put a jack on it just means you jacked the wrong place. It is a brace not a jack point.
Its only steel. Cut it out and weld in some new pieces. Make up a cardboard template of the steel you need and take it to steel supplier and get him to cut them for you with his ***** steel guillitene. Get you new pieces as thick as possible. Thickness = rigidity and longevity. Weld in new pieces. If your frame is off it should be easy. If not it will be a handful but can be done. You should get out of it for under $30 if you have access to a welder. Once you are done POR-15 that steel. Etch it with OSMO or Metal Ready before you paint.
The fact that that brace bent when you put a jack on it just means you jacked the wrong place. It is a brace not a jack point.
Its only steel. Cut it out and weld in some new pieces. Make up a cardboard template of the steel you need and take it to steel supplier and get him to cut them for you with his ***** steel guillitene. Get you new pieces as thick as possible. Thickness = rigidity and longevity. Weld in new pieces. If your frame is off it should be easy. If not it will be a handful but can be done. You should get out of it for under $30 if you have access to a welder. Once you are done POR-15 that steel. Etch it with OSMO or Metal Ready before you paint.
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Originally Posted by johns73
From what you discribe you may have major problems, You need to slide your hand up both sides of the frame where they attach to Rear crossmember to see how sound that area is also use a hammer and screw driver in that area to see if you can punch thru, If so you have major problems. I found out mine was bad by jacking up the rear end and putting jack stands in the rear corners of the frame then lower it slowly if your frame is bad it will sag in the rear and deflect in the corners. Hope this not going to happen for you. Frames are out there if you need one but shop hard i found mine on ebay for $178.00 soild with light rust. Good Luck John
#9
Burning Brakes
just like johns73 said take a hammer and a screwdriver and check
or get a body hammer with a pick on the end and start checking.
tap on the frame and the crossmember to look for weak spots or soft spots. also check on top of the crossmember where the trailing arm attaches. if the frame bent from just jacking it sounds very weak.
or get a body hammer with a pick on the end and start checking.
tap on the frame and the crossmember to look for weak spots or soft spots. also check on top of the crossmember where the trailing arm attaches. if the frame bent from just jacking it sounds very weak.
#11
Racer
The rear kick ups are a common place for rust on C3's and also a bad place. These cars have been known to break in half when the frame rusts thru in the kick up area.
All is not lost though. The best way to repair is to remove the body and have a new piece of frame welded in. Instead of that you can get a good welder to strengthen the area by welding pieces into the areas where the rust is cut out. I had it done on my 70 for about $600 4 years ago and no problems since.
It needs to be addressed as it can be a dangerous situation if left alone.
All is not lost though. The best way to repair is to remove the body and have a new piece of frame welded in. Instead of that you can get a good welder to strengthen the area by welding pieces into the areas where the rust is cut out. I had it done on my 70 for about $600 4 years ago and no problems since.
It needs to be addressed as it can be a dangerous situation if left alone.
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Originally Posted by BUGGSY1970
Instead of that you can get a good welder to strengthen the area by welding pieces into the areas where the rust is cut out. I had it done on my 70 for about $600 4 years ago and no problems since.
Thanks for the all the advice guys...but once again, the pic that lostpatrolman posted is NOT what the gusset looks like on my car. On mine, it is a metal rail, just like the rest of the frame rails...
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Originally Posted by wills670
if the frame bent from just jacking it sounds very weak.
#14
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[QUOTE=72Tornado]Phew...wow, that is an absolute relief. I was scared as hell that I was going to have to abandon my heads/cam/intake plans and dump a couple thousand into getting the body removed and having that part entire part of my frame replaced...I should have enough spare money this summer to cough up the $600
Thanks for the all the advice guys...but once again, the pic that lostpatrolman posted is NOT what the gusset looks like on my car. On mine, it is a metal rail, just like the rest of the frame rails...[/QUOTE]
...About that metal rail in lieu of a gusset. A description of all the 1963 to 1982 frames can be found at http://www.71corvette.com/frames.html
If you can't find a picture of your frame, someone prior to you has made a modification. Notice that for C3's, it appears that only the 1980 to 1982 frames are the frames that don't have gussets.
Thanks for the all the advice guys...but once again, the pic that lostpatrolman posted is NOT what the gusset looks like on my car. On mine, it is a metal rail, just like the rest of the frame rails...[/QUOTE]
...About that metal rail in lieu of a gusset. A description of all the 1963 to 1982 frames can be found at http://www.71corvette.com/frames.html
If you can't find a picture of your frame, someone prior to you has made a modification. Notice that for C3's, it appears that only the 1980 to 1982 frames are the frames that don't have gussets.
#15
Le Mans Master
His $600 estimate (I assume) is for frame repairs AFTER the
body is off. If someone says they can repair those corners
with the body on - they are only patching it and delaying problems.
I patched mine with the body on (looked fairly decent).
Then, when I removed the body .... well, let's just say I was
know for removing LOTS of rust. If/when you lift the body,
you may (probably will) find other rust issues. This, assuming the
birdcage is still intact - allowing you to lift the body.
I ain't sugar-coating it. You have serious problems.
body is off. If someone says they can repair those corners
with the body on - they are only patching it and delaying problems.
I patched mine with the body on (looked fairly decent).
Then, when I removed the body .... well, let's just say I was
know for removing LOTS of rust. If/when you lift the body,
you may (probably will) find other rust issues. This, assuming the
birdcage is still intact - allowing you to lift the body.
I ain't sugar-coating it. You have serious problems.
#16
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by NHvette
His $600 estimate (I assume) is for frame repairs AFTER the
body is off. If someone says they can repair those corners
with the body on - they are only patching it and delaying problems.
I patched mine with the body on (looked fairly decent).
Then, when I removed the body .... well, let's just say I was
know for removing LOTS of rust. If/when you lift the body,
you may (probably will) find other rust issues. This, assuming the
birdcage is still intact - allowing you to lift the body.
I ain't sugar-coating it. You have serious problems.
body is off. If someone says they can repair those corners
with the body on - they are only patching it and delaying problems.
I patched mine with the body on (looked fairly decent).
Then, when I removed the body .... well, let's just say I was
know for removing LOTS of rust. If/when you lift the body,
you may (probably will) find other rust issues. This, assuming the
birdcage is still intact - allowing you to lift the body.
I ain't sugar-coating it. You have serious problems.
Stp
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Originally Posted by NHvette
His $600 estimate (I assume) is for frame repairs AFTER the
body is off. If someone says they can repair those corners
with the body on - they are only patching it and delaying problems.
I patched mine with the body on (looked fairly decent).
Then, when I removed the body .... well, let's just say I was
know for removing LOTS of rust. If/when you lift the body,
you may (probably will) find other rust issues. This, assuming the
birdcage is still intact - allowing you to lift the body.
I ain't sugar-coating it. You have serious problems.
body is off. If someone says they can repair those corners
with the body on - they are only patching it and delaying problems.
I patched mine with the body on (looked fairly decent).
Then, when I removed the body .... well, let's just say I was
know for removing LOTS of rust. If/when you lift the body,
you may (probably will) find other rust issues. This, assuming the
birdcage is still intact - allowing you to lift the body.
I ain't sugar-coating it. You have serious problems.
Just out of curiosity, how much would it cost to go all the way, have the body lifted, and have someone replace the frame in those areas?
Oh, and as a final point, the gussets on my car definitely ARE full rails, not the small brackets usually found. These gussets are perfectly solid, so I'm not too worried
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Originally Posted by stpman
My frame looked like you described yours and when I lifted the body off I found there to be no frame left
Stp
Stp
Well...just from taking a look at my frame and feeling around as best I can, I know it's not that far gone...that is a scary pic though
#19
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by 72Tornado
Well...just from taking a look at my frame and feeling around as best I can, I know it's not that far gone...that is a scary pic though
i am not trying to discourage you just makeing you aware.