New Rear Brake Calipers
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: WAY SOUTH OF HEAVEN inebriated
New Rear Brake Calipers
So its time to install my new o ring brake calipers on the rear im pretty green when it comes to brakes ive read up my manual and hopefully ive understood it properly VBP strongly recommends drianing the old fluid out of the MC before installing the new calipers now if ive read my manual correctly theres a seperate reservoir for back and front so if i let all the old fluid drian out of the rear lines it will not effect the front right? then i can put new fliud in the reservoir gravity bleed the rear until the fluid comes out of the calipers close all valves second person presses brake pedal the person at the back starting from the left side opens the inner set screw first get air out close let pedal off then press pedal in again open outer set screw bleed the air close then let pedal off then the same for the passenger side.Is the way i explianed this correct? just want to make sure before i get at er oh does anyone know if the calipers from VBP comes with speed bleeders they look alot like them but i could be wrong becuase this is the first set of bleeder screws ive seen. 
thanks muchly! 
thanks muchly!
Last edited by 1980 454; Jul 11, 2005 at 11:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: WAY SOUTH OF HEAVEN inebriated
one more thing the only reason im doing it this way is becuase the front end is on car ramps and the back on stands if the front were on stands or rather i could afford to buy two more stands this week id bleed all four.thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
You have the basics down... but JIC... the pedal procedure/method requires dozens of press/release cycles to actually bleed the circuit.... try to bleed a cup of fluid from each bleeder. It takes a judgement call to know when to stop. No magic number. But one pass on a bleeder is not enough. You have to repeat until the fluid comes out clean & airless.
In my opinion, and real world experience and testing, if you do the procedure correctly on each bleeder, it will make no difference which order you do them in.
Also.... You'll probably end up having to re-bleed the master cylinder anyways.
Now get ready for a zillion people to tell you a different "better" way to bleed. They can't help themselves. Be appreciative.
In my opinion, and real world experience and testing, if you do the procedure correctly on each bleeder, it will make no difference which order you do them in.
Also.... You'll probably end up having to re-bleed the master cylinder anyways.
Now get ready for a zillion people to tell you a different "better" way to bleed. They can't help themselves. Be appreciative.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Trust me on this; you will want a good set of flare nut wrenches to use on the bleeders. I've always understood to bleed the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first and work your way closer in succession. That would be right rear inner, right rear outer; left rear inner, left rear outer. Then right front, followed by left front. Make sure your buddy holds the pedal down until you have closed the bleeder.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
First, I would listen to everything Tom has to say.
He knows, as he has done this stuff for a living for probably too long.
That said, I think starting with a gravity bleed is good. I did mine
like this, and saved many pump and hold sessions with my 10 yo son.
After gravity bleeding and a few pump bleeds, rap on the caliper
with a plastic hammer to dislodge any trapped air bubbles ... pump
bleed again. That -should- do it, but you might need to
use them a short while and return to rap and pump again.
Mine are now very firm.
For bleeders, a 5/16 six-point box end wrench is the ticket.
Save the flare wrenches for rounding off tubing nuts.
If you don't have a 6-point wrench, break them loose with a 6-point
socket first.
He knows, as he has done this stuff for a living for probably too long.
That said, I think starting with a gravity bleed is good. I did mine
like this, and saved many pump and hold sessions with my 10 yo son.
After gravity bleeding and a few pump bleeds, rap on the caliper
with a plastic hammer to dislodge any trapped air bubbles ... pump
bleed again. That -should- do it, but you might need to
use them a short while and return to rap and pump again.
Mine are now very firm.
For bleeders, a 5/16 six-point box end wrench is the ticket.
Save the flare wrenches for rounding off tubing nuts.
If you don't have a 6-point wrench, break them loose with a 6-point
socket first.
Last edited by NHvette; Jul 12, 2005 at 05:01 PM.
