Windshield top bar replacement?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
Windshield top bar replacement?
My windshield top bar has a good deal of rust on the bottom. The corners and sides look OK, so I was thinking about just replacing the top bar. The catalog says that the piece is for a convertible and it must be "adapted" for coupes. Can anyone who has done this "adapting" let me know if this is a difficult process or not? I am assuming that the windshield needs to come out before this can be done.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
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The difference is the T-bar. It is easier to change a coupe header to a convertible header rather than the other way around. I think your best solution would be to find a good used header from a coupe rather than order pieces from one of the venders. I got mine from Just Corvettes in St. Louis.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
If you think about it, the windshield will HAVE to come out in order to weld in the new top piece. That said - I doubt if you will be able to save the glass as it will most likely crack on it's way out. So add the cost of new glass to your project.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Yeah - glass definitely needs to be removed.
Second, let me offer advice, as I have replaced this.
Actually, I replaced everything from the back of the Ttop bar
to about 1/3 down the WS frame sides. Mine required lots of
measurements to get it back together correctly.
If your top corners are in good shape, then I highly suggest
leaving them in place. Cut the top bar somewhere between
the corner pieces and the rusted area. Preferrably, do this
AFTER getting the replacement piece. You could use a new or
used bar. Actually, I might have a spare ... unsure of
condition ... I'll look. The Ttop bar will need the spot welds
drilled out for detaching from the top bar. Then, it's just a matter
of cutting the replacement to the exactly length. I usually cut
a bit long and use a grinder to slowly shorten until it fits tight.
Then, just bevel the ends of the pieces, triple check alignment
and weld away.
Good luck
Second, let me offer advice, as I have replaced this.
Actually, I replaced everything from the back of the Ttop bar
to about 1/3 down the WS frame sides. Mine required lots of
measurements to get it back together correctly.
If your top corners are in good shape, then I highly suggest
leaving them in place. Cut the top bar somewhere between
the corner pieces and the rusted area. Preferrably, do this
AFTER getting the replacement piece. You could use a new or
used bar. Actually, I might have a spare ... unsure of
condition ... I'll look. The Ttop bar will need the spot welds
drilled out for detaching from the top bar. Then, it's just a matter
of cutting the replacement to the exactly length. I usually cut
a bit long and use a grinder to slowly shorten until it fits tight.
Then, just bevel the ends of the pieces, triple check alignment
and weld away.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
NHVette - Thanks for the input. We seem to have cars with identical problems. I'm just 6 - 12 months behind you! If you do have a spare top bar, I would be happy to pay whatever price you feel is fair. You idea of cutting inboard of both corner pieces is exactly what I was thinking. This should make getting the right alignment that much easier since the ends will already be in place.
On a related note, I vaguely remember that there was a trick to removing the chrome windshield trim on the outside, both up the A pillars and across the top. I know that it's held in with clips, but I'm not sure exactly how to release the trim.
On a related note, I vaguely remember that there was a trick to removing the chrome windshield trim on the outside, both up the A pillars and across the top. I know that it's held in with clips, but I'm not sure exactly how to release the trim.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by Vette Gator
NHVette - Thanks for the input. We seem to have cars with identical problems. I'm just 6 - 12 months behind you! If you do have a spare top bar, I would be happy to pay whatever price you feel is fair. You idea of cutting inboard of both corner pieces is exactly what I was thinking. This should make getting the right alignment that much easier since the ends will already be in place.
On a related note, I vaguely remember that there was a trick to removing the chrome windshield trim on the outside, both up the A pillars and across the top. I know that it's held in with clips, but I'm not sure exactly how to release the trim.
On a related note, I vaguely remember that there was a trick to removing the chrome windshield trim on the outside, both up the A pillars and across the top. I know that it's held in with clips, but I'm not sure exactly how to release the trim.
screwed on. You have to remove the glued-on weather strips to
get at the screws (3 each I think). Those sides are easy. The Ttop
stainless unscrews up front .... might have to drill a couple rivets in the back.
The top WS stainless clips probably have a special tool to come off easily.
I recall using a screwdriver and bending the piece slightly in places.
Honestly, that was over 3 years ago that I removed it.
Hopefully, someone else will chime in with a good technique.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Originally Posted by Vette Gator
On a related note, I vaguely remember that there was a trick to removing the chrome windshield trim on the outside, both up the A pillars and across the top. I know that it's held in with clips, but I'm not sure exactly how to release the trim.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
OK - I dug out my top bar this morning. I originally chose
not to use this one, due to some cheesy patches that someone
had put on the corners. The bar itself is rust-pitted on the
surface that the glass is stuck on to. There is one small hole
rusted through. I'll try to get a picture of it later today, but my
guess is that you wouldn't want to use this piece unless
you have no budget for parts. The rest of the bar is solid, so it
might be OK to exopy the mounting surface smooth. Pics to follow.
not to use this one, due to some cheesy patches that someone
had put on the corners. The bar itself is rust-pitted on the
surface that the glass is stuck on to. There is one small hole
rusted through. I'll try to get a picture of it later today, but my
guess is that you wouldn't want to use this piece unless
you have no budget for parts. The rest of the bar is solid, so it
might be OK to exopy the mounting surface smooth. Pics to follow.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
Thanks much for digging this out and shooting some pics. Since I'm only going to be needing the center section (my corners are OK), this bar might still be good for me, especially if it is from a coupe. Send me a PM or e-mail and I'll be happy to work out the purchase.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
I will soon have a replacement for my rusted-out windshield frame. Do I need to take any special precautions to prevent too much body bending when I cut the old frame out? I got to thinking that the top bar might be important in keeping the body from sagging at the front and back. The car will be on its wheels when I make the cuts. If you've done this operation, does the car flex significantly after the cutting? Of course, I'm not planning on driving the car until the new windshield frame has been welded in, and maybe I'm being paranoid, but I would hate to crack my fiberglass if it's something I could have avoided by supporting the car at the right locations during the repair.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 613
Likes: 2
From: West Central Florida
If the body is still attached to the frame it probably will not move unless theframe mounts are gone.
Measure from the back of the T-bar to the window seal lip (sticking up that the molding attaches to) and from the center of the T-bar to each corner of the frame and at least one place in between. Mark where you took measurements from and measure from the corners to where you take the measurements between the corners and the center so you can locate them on the replacement part.
Measure from corner to corner also. It is important to write down these measurements and draw a diagram of how you took them so you can duplicate this on the new part. You need at least three points of reference from a central point to each side to be dead accurate. Hop it helps.
(dont forget to measure and locate the center of the old and new parts)
vic
Measure from the back of the T-bar to the window seal lip (sticking up that the molding attaches to) and from the center of the T-bar to each corner of the frame and at least one place in between. Mark where you took measurements from and measure from the corners to where you take the measurements between the corners and the center so you can locate them on the replacement part.
Measure from corner to corner also. It is important to write down these measurements and draw a diagram of how you took them so you can duplicate this on the new part. You need at least three points of reference from a central point to each side to be dead accurate. Hop it helps.
(dont forget to measure and locate the center of the old and new parts)
vic
Last edited by VETTEVIC; Oct 5, 2005 at 01:35 PM.