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There's another thread on Quadrajunk rebuilds somewhere (or on CAC). They are a good design with their own strengths and weaknesses. If they aren't as dirt simple and self contained as the AFB's, they are still good performers. Any decent full rebuild kit, with the instructions followed religiously, will work decently. You really only get in a little more problems when you start modifying them.
I brought up something I thought I remembered from one I or another either installed, rebuilt or did something else to that you had to be careful about not inverting them or something easily gets cocked sideways and you have to shake it or beat on it or even disassemble it to correct it, but several called me every kind of fool they could think of. I am not convinced I am remembering wrongly - so be careful juggling one.
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AFB's are both sensitive to even modestly high fuel pressure and dirt. They are, however, easily cleaned and maintained. They also have very small side mounted fuel bowls which run out in a hurry under any fuel supply problem - or under series of hard banking events from side to side.
Not only do you need the adapter plate for the carb, I need a throttle/trans/and cruise control bracket. The braket assembly holding the accelerator housing and return spring was held on by the old carb bolts. Now that the spacing is different, it has nowhere to bolt onto. I can't go in between the adapter and the carb for obvious reasons.
So I just ordered a 38 dollar edelbrock part. I hope its here by wed.
For those of you that did go without a choke I have a few questions - What position do you keep the choke? Wide open or closed or what?
How do you keep it in this position?
basically I had the divorced choke and now I have a manual choke with no cable to pull. I will never be driving it under 60 degrees outside. For bi weekly starts below that temp, I can pop the hood if necessary.
feel free to post here or on my new thread about this.
Get a piece of stiff wire that will fit through the eye of that clamp thing that would normally fix to the choke cable "jacket". On the other end of this piece of wire, bend a hook.
Thread the wire through that little choke door attachment place and place the other end in that clamp thing - push the little door wide open, secure the clamp, and you're choke is wired open. You can also rig it with a zip tie - but I feel an honest-to-God piece of bailing wire just adds some "class."
As I recall, I used the excellent tuning book that comes with the eddy to make a couple more small changes. If you decide to go the same route, post back and I'll give you p/n's for the final tune (you may need no changes or may well be tickled with the stock 1406 setup.)
Daffy
Just put a 1406 (my qjet is very leaky) on that a friend had sitting on shelf. Ran with no tuning, but wants to flood at idle. Could I get a look at that tuning booklet?
Originally Posted by Daffy2
The electric choke hookup is one simple wire to hot (ignition on) and I would suggest an inline fuse.
Choke really was plug n play like this IMO. haven't done the inline fuse, but seems like a good idea.
This owners manual used to be available right from the Edelbrock website, but I don't see a path to it now. Go to the website and e-mail them. They are usually pretty responsive.
From the manual, the only thing that I can see that could be related is the recommendation of no more than 6.0 psi. Above that, they recommend a fuel pressure regulator.
There's a trouble shooting chart and I'll give you the "solutions to flooding" from that:
1. Change fuel filter (not sure I follow that logic...)
2. Check float level and drop.
3. Off road vehicle may need spring-loaded needle and seat kit (unlikely in your case).
4.Check for dirt in needles and seats. Needles and seat may need replacement.
5. Check floats for for leakage, replace if necesary.
6. Check air horn gasket. Repalce if deterioration or breakage is present.
7. Fuel pressure too high, see the first note at the top.
The only problem I had with the 1405 I had in a Camaro I used to own was caused by excessive fuel pressure. The needle valves that shut off fuel flow into the reservoir are flat like a pencil eraser rather than other carb styles that have pointed seal that fits inside the port. If you run more than 5-7 psi the pressure will exceed the carb's sealing ability flooding the reservoir and stalling the engine. It shouldn't be a problem with a stock pump but it's good info to know in case you run into a problem with the engine bogging and stalling as soon as you hit the gas.
I've got this flooding problem exactly with a 1406. I've dialled most of it out with timing, but I still get a little boggin when I am taking off. You can feel it dry up once I get things opened up. did you put in a fuel regulator? I haven't yet. but i was considering going for something I could dial up.
I had similar motivation: i wanted to take off the old Qjet and rebuild it, but I wanted a new carb on the vette so i could take my time with the rebuild. I bought a replacement qjet, from Edelbrock, the #1901, which is pretty much the same Qjet as the one I took off the vette. It bolted right on - I rejetted it - and it is still on the vette, and the old Qjet is still on the stand, and fairly well trashed after an unsuccessful rebuild and stripping the fuel inlet!