How difficult is it to change all valve seals and how long should it take a white collar dummt like me that has a knack for fixing and has the haynes manual ?
Is this something I should leave to the pros or do in my garage on a rainy day ?
I am getting that puff of smoke when I start.

 

I fhe heads are staying on the motor it can be a tiny bit tricky. You have to fill a cylinder at a time with air, in the old days guys would put a piece of cloths line in there, this prevents the valves from falling in the cylinder. Then you use a special valve tool (20 bucks) to take the springs off. I've done it many times you just have to be carefull not to drop the locks into the engine.

 

I have a shop air compressor so it is easy to fill a cylinder when working on it. I also have the special valve spring compresser that works on the valve spring in the car. I find them just as easy to replace in the car as out.
Be sure to block all holes into the motor with rags. The retainers tend to fly everywhere and you don't want to loose them down a oil hole.

 

plan on it taking a day, that way you don't rush and drop/forget stuff.

 

just did mine get the tool put air to the cylinder about 70 pounds get your self a little pen magnet to catch the keepers is nice i used the umbrella type their about a buck apiece it will take a couple hours its not hard dont be scared just do it if you count the number of turns to get the rockers off mine was 13.5 every time you can run them right back to where they where or count the threads showing usually 4 unless you are going to adjust them running using the clips or half a valve cover get er done

 

Just did mine, but if your a novice, pass the job on to a pro... It's not that bad, but you need experinace...Just to give you a heads up...

 

I consider myself pretty handy. I found it easier to write a check on this one.

 

easy to do, used nylon rope to keep valve up, bought $30 spring compressor

 

Cut and paste from an earlier post:

If the piston is at TDC, you don't need air. The valve does not have enough room to drop into the cylinder.

Here is what I do:
- Put piston at TDC.
- Remove rockers and pushrods.
- Feed some rope in anyway.
- Tap keeper lightly with hammer. Don't be afraid.
- Compress spring with bar type compressor. Valve may move but will stop when it hits rope and then the locks will break loose.
- Remove locks with pencil magnet.
- Release tension, remove bar, remove spring.
- If valve moved, pull it back up with fingers. Seal keeps it up while compressing spring on reinstall.
- When reinstalling the locks, a little bearing grease on the inside of the keepers will help keep them in place.
- Replace rockers and pushrods. since you are TDC on the firing stroke, you can set the lash on the rockers.


It is that easy. I just rotate the crank 90 degrees between cylinders and do it in firing order.

Oh, and how do I confirm #1 on TDC. Rotate balancer to ZERO timing mark with pointer. Pull dist cap. If the rotor is pointing forward, I am on #1, pointing back #6. If on #6, rotate crank 360 degrees and recheck.

This takes me about 3-4 hours for all 8 cylinders. Figure a minimum of $250 for a shop to do it.

 

I did mine on my L-82 for the first time a few months ago. It was a learning experience, but I'll tell you, I'm glad I did it because the knowledge factor that you get from doing it is worth big bucks.
Mike

 

That puff of smoke could be something easier. Have you replaced your PCV valve?

Just to be safe you should make sure that the piston on the cylinder you are working on is at the top of it's cylinder...that way if a valve falls it won't get lost...and should be easily retrieved.

On another note...I was a fleet mechanic for several years, but I did them wrong the first time...I was installing the seals, then installing the spring...which is the wrong way. In the Haynes manual on page 2A-6 it shows the right way in figure 5.17 which is to install the spring...use the spring compressor & compress the spring so that the oil seal can be slipped down onto the lower groove, then the keepers go on. I made the mistake of looking at figure 5.9a and thunked or thinked (sp?) that the seal went on before the spring was installed.

The difficult part in doing this job without removing the head is keeping the valve up all the way:

1. In one hand holding the spring compressor depress the spring so that you can remove the keepers and remove the spring...clean the spring, keepers, etc.

2. After cleaning the parts replace the spring and depress the spring again.

3. Slide a well oiled seal (have them soaking in oil before you begin) over the valve...unfortunately the valve will want to move down.

4. So, with your third hand grasp the top of the valve and pull up while your other two hands are depressing the spring and sliding the oil seal into the lower groove.

So...you see...the hard part is locating that third hand...or simply compressing the spring more...which will make your muscles sore if you aren't used to the strain. It's guaranteed that after you do the job your arms will be well excercised. It would be best to do the job when you have a couple of days off...weekend thing...so that you can rest afterwards...or do the disassembly one day and assembly the next. I mention this since you mentioned the white collar...pace yourself and don't try to over tax your muscles. Those springs can fly out from that compressor and leave some permanent trophies on your face...be careful.