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I am thinking of having my heads angle milled this winter, to bring my compression to at least 12:1 to a max of 13:1. This is a street strip car that is at 11:1 now, and is fine on 94 sunoco on the street. I do run 50% race gas mix, but don't need to. Any thoughts on if this compression will make my car too cranky for round town driving?
383 6" rods, flat tops, aluminum heads. good sized cam to bleed of cylinder pressure, good cooling system ect. Thanks for sharing.
I don't see how you can or don't have to run more than 94 on what you have??? If you go higher your going to need more octane- if you consider race gas streetable or the range limit it produces then its streetable.
To my understanding if your running 11:1 or is it 11.25:1? you don't have the option of low octane unless the car is detuned, retarded timing.
94 octane is low octane.
I'm just guessing but I would think if you mixed 50% race stuff into 94 you could advance the timing and get more power.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Just changing the CR will not do much, one point might get you 2%. CR should be dictated by cam, heads and what gas you can get. If you want to bump up the CR it should be done with a cam swap to make any significant gains. :
Here is one of the best articles I have read on the subject, it might give you some ideas.
I don't see how you can or don't have to run more than 94 on what you have??? If you go higher your going to need more octane- if you consider race gas streetable or the range limit it produces then its streetable.
To my understanding if your running 11:1 or is it 11.25:1? you don't have the option of low octane unless the car is detuned, retarded timing.
94 octane is low octane.
I'm just guessing but I would think if you mixed 50% race stuff into 94 you could advance the timing and get more power.
Actually it is 11.2:1. It runs fine on 94 sunoco with 34degrees total timing(careful driving). But since I usually run 50/50 race gas to be safe I am thinking total race gas to raise the compression so I don't leave anything on the table with these heads. (edelbrock rpm performers 2.055" intake, full poring by race shop.
Don't waste money on small heads like your Edelbrock. Motorhead tried to explain that the additional power gain going from 11.2 to 13 is minimal. I ran a 383 with 11.2 for 20,000 miles and never put anything, but our 91 octane in it
If you want more power the biggest gain would be to purchase heads that flow over 300 cfm intake.
Actually your going to come the same conclusion that I did. You can spend lots of money and turn your 383 7500 rpm and you still just have a 383 ci. Sell it to someone else and start over with a 406+ ci motor. the 427 - 454 small blocks are becoming very common.
Don't waste money on small heads like your Edelbrock. Motorhead tried to explain that the additional power gain going from 11.2 to 13 is minimal. I ran a 383 with 11.2 for 20,000 miles and never put anything, but our 91 octane in it
If you want more power the biggest gain would be to purchase heads that flow over 300 cfm intake.
Actually your going to come the same conclusion that I did. You can spend lots of money and turn your 383 7500 rpm and you still just have a 383 ci. Sell it to someone else and start over with a 406+ ci motor. the 427 - 454 small blocks are becoming very common.
I'd love to start over... however i broke my bank building the 383"right". Now, I don't know whether to buy new heads or go with increased c.r. on my old heads. I have alot of cash in my current heads w/ porting oversized valves etc. I am considering buying a desktop dyno to compare power outputs from diff. heads, etc. P.S. What are you running now? jim
My in the storage box 383 has Dart 227cc heads on it and a solid roller cam with 236/244 112 lc installed 4 degrees retarded to help it produce more power over 7000 rpm