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Just pondering.....how well would the fan switch in the radiator work if there were NO coolant in the radiator?...
NO coolant....i'm not quite sure why you would do such a thing but my thoughts would be that it wouldn't work at least not the way intended....but like I said why you would do such a thing is beyond me in the first place.
....and to think all this time all I had to do was make a housing for my flexfan and I wouldn't have to drop $3K on an 8-71 setup!
....now try the OTHER med....
Just because it could take 5-10 hp to run does not mean it really does or that it uses it effectively. Mechanical fans do essentially nothing past a certain relatively low rpm and they do even less at low rpm.
I, and anyone else, verified that the first time at low speed after a mechanical to electric fan switch. Are you honestly so arrogant you think the rest of us have so much money we change to these things just for something to waste money on? I was extremely reluctant to switch to electric - I don't like the reliability issues of electric vs. flywheel - but it greatly improved my cooling (although it did not solve the heating issue entirely.)
Just because it's attached to a belt doesn't mean it delivers some huge amount of air flow. I wouldn't be surprised that the water pump pulls the most of the power off of that belt anyhow.
Incidentally, you'd probably be hugely interested to know when the 28V and 42V system changes were all being discussed for upcoming GM models to be (like the C6) one key option was electric braking and another was electric supercharging It didn't occur, yet, so we don't know how well that works....
Now I'm confused; I never tried to compare a cooling fan to a blower. I hope you aren't talking to me!
EXACTLY!!! soccer794...I was making the point that if the switch was in the radiator, and there were no coolant in the radiator, (maybe a leak) ...the fans would never come on....oops, there goes another head gasket....
....he/they was/were tryin' (poorly) to JBS me....I mean....
No, I enjoy the discussion - you may be wedded to a few points or pet theories like anyone else with character, but you do it all with reason and are after the same thing as all of us - to repair, perfect, improve or evolve an older design with newer technology and thus make something better than either.
Keep at it - I know I will....if lob a mudpie every now and then, it's thrown underhand!
BTW, did ya like my jibe about you thinking the radiator was just a nifty place to hold fans and mount a temperature sender? I LOVED that one!!!
....he/they was/were tryin' (poorly) to JBS me....I mean....
No, I enjoy the discussion - you may be wedded to a few points or pet theories like anyone else with character, but you do it all with reason and are after the same thing as all of us - to repair, perfect, improve or evolve an older design with newer technology and thus make something better than either.
Keep at it - I know I will....if lob a mudpie every now and then, it's thrown underhand!
BTW, did ya like my jibe about you thinking the radiator was just a nifty place to hold fans and mount a temperature sender? I LOVED that one!!!
I'm Canadian and that could explain it but I have trouble following your posts.
EXACTLY!!! soccer794...I was making the point that if the switch was in the radiator, and there were no coolant in the radiator, (maybe a leak) ...the fans would never come on....oops, there goes another head gasket....
If you had no coolant in the radiator oops there goes a head gasket whether your fans come on or not. The fans won't work if there's nothing there for them to cool...i think you're making the mistake again of thinking the fans cool the engine...which is not true.
No mistake..I know how it all works. I just don't think the switch belongs on the radiator...thats all
Thats fine, I think I agree I was simply pointing out that I think it could work and potentially work even better if done properly, but I'm a conventional guy I stick with what works.
I mounted my thermocouple (sender) two inches below the top rad inlet. If the coolant dropped below that level you would notice the eng. temp rise and shut it down. Maybe not the best place for it but it works fine. My fans turn on and off when thery are supposed to. If I had another place to put it I probably would have, but where it is does just as good as anywhere else. It is sensing the coolant temp right as it comes from the engine and keeps my engine running cool. You are no more apt to have a problem having it mounted in the rad as anywhere else. If you monitor the fluid levels like you are supposed to, the biggest surprise you are going to have is a rad hose blowing and you know that instantly.
Bernie
The coolant going to the engine is what you care about; so you want to monitor it. That's what will allow the thermostat to control engine temp. The output from the engine will always be at least the thermostat set temperature; winter or summer. The fans will go on a lot more(with the sender in the engine or in the top of the radiator) in the winter, and send much cooler coolant to the engine. Which will affect it's performance some.
Thermostat controls the flow of the coolant thru the engine, if you have one. Before electric fans, engine fans ran continously and the thermostat told the system when to flow coolant to keep the engine at a consistant temp. Although electric fans are energized by switches set at certain temps to turn on and off, they could actually run continously and not cause any problems. The thermostat would still maintain the engine temp where it should be. We are drastically overcomplicating this issue.
Bernie
Except that the thermostatic fan clutch was created for the mechanical fan. It has it's biggest effect in the winter. It not only saves some energy; but keeps the coolant going into the block from being too cold, which is it's primary job.
BTW, we'll take some of that "Great White" about now...and a repeat in August - ice, snow...even slush - whatever you have laying around!
What we have laying around is temperatures in the high 80's and alot of days closer to 100. Hot and dry for the last month and they are forcasting another month of the same.
It is alot hotter then most think and winter has little snow.
Someone was right about there not being enough popcorn for this thread. I just rebuilt and swung my original 454 (30 over) roller cam and rockers and lots of head work with 10.25 compression and A/C back into my 1970. I have a 180 thermostat and a Griffin aluminum radiator rated for 600 hp along with the stock clutch fan and shroud. All possible air leaks have been filled around the shroud and radiator. I'll be firing it within a week or so and if anybody is interested I can post back here what temps the car is running. I had asked Griffin specifically about running an electric push fan in front to augment the stock fan and they said absolutely not to and the temps would be fine.
Reason- Easy, because of past responses (like #2) to his posts about cooling that some are not familiar with.
Originally Posted by jbs75
Temp sensing, for me, is understood.
Some manu. (OEMs) do put the sensor for el. fans in the rad. as Jim said.
If someone is going to run el. fans only, then 2 make sense as there would be some minimal cooling if one failed. The fans should be staged.
If A/C, then one is turned on w/ the A/C (common knowledge, commonly done & as Jim said).
... 454 (30 over) roller cam and rockers and lots of head work with 10.25 compression and A/C ... Griffin aluminum radiator rated for 600 hp along with the stock clutch fan and shroud. ... I had asked Griffin specifically about running an electric push fan in front to augment the stock fan and they said absolutely not to and the temps would be fine.
There is a lack of space for 2 large El. fans like 16" w/ A/C. Here is something interesting:
Ford engineer Wayne Lawson "experimentation has shown that an electric fan located inside a shroud behind the radiator that rotates in the opposite direction of the engine-driven fan dramatically improves low-speed cooling. Lawson describes it as creating the equivalent of a near-zero tip clearance for the engine-driven fan. Keep in mind that the electric fan must counter-rotate while pulling air through the radiator. That will require using the correct fan blade to create that situation."
They tried some counterrotating props for some experimental aircraft in the 40s' and 50s'. It worked very well; I would be leary of it though, because think of the blades flexing, and having a meeting...so to speak!