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We're installing a 540 in my Vette and we're scratching our heads about whether or not we should run a 1/2 inch fuel line. Right now I've got the factory 3/8 inch steel line to the carb and a 1/4 inch steel return. We're going to install a Mallory Comp Series electric pump. All indications are the existing lines will not starve the motor, which has been dyno'd at right around 500 RWHP in a previous car.
We'd like to run a 1/2 inch line and use the 3/8 line for the return, but I am not prepared to do a body off to do this. Has anybody done this before with the body on? Is there a flexible fuel line product that's not too wide to run along the crevices atop the frame on the passenger side? This is for a 75 Vette.
Beneath the passenger door on top of the frame, there is a triangle shaped opening to route the hose through and I do not think a braided 1/2 inch hose can be threaded through it. Admittedly, I do not know for sure...
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
One of my buddies is in the process of installing the same setup as you and is thinking this is the way to go also. I don't think he has done the run just yet though. Maybe he will see this thread and comment on his idea.
We're installing a 540 in my Vette and we're scratching our heads about whether or not we should run a 1/2 inch fuel line. Right now I've got the factory 3/8 inch steel line to the carb and a 1/4 inch steel return. We're going to install a Mallory Comp Series electric pump. All indications are the existing lines will not starve the motor, which has been dyno'd at right around 500 RWHP in a previous car.
We'd like to run a 1/2 inch line and use the 3/8 line for the return, but I am not prepared to do a body off to do this. Has anybody done this before with the body on? Is there a flexible fuel line product that's not too wide to run along the crevices atop the frame on the passenger side? This is for a 75 Vette.
I'm also putting a 540 in my 76. I've discussed this with my builder (who has many years experience building racing engines and hotrodding old cars), and his advice was to use 1/2" braided steel line. I had found kits on either Summit or Jegs before, but I'm having trouble finding it now. I did find this at Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...01&prmenbr=361
What condition is your tank in? I'm going to take the opputunity to upgrade to a Fuel Safe fuel cell. I won't have any fit problems because I'm getting rid of the spare tire carrier and I'm going with sidepipes. Fuel Safe does make a Corvette-specific fuel cell, but it is really expensive.
Why do you need a return line? I run a rigid 1/2 inch stainless line with twin electric pumps at the tank and a good regulater at the motor. Why return fuel to the tank with an electric pump. Vapor lock is not a problem with pusher pumps.
From: Edgewater (20 miles south of Daytona) Florida
Is There Some Reason You Don't Want To Run A Steel Braided Line Along The Inside Frame Rail/ Add A Couple Of Hose Clams Attached To The Frame And It Will Be Safe And Easy. Dash 6 Line Should Be Used. Buy The Length Of Hose Needed, The Two Ends, Screw It Together And Be Done And Safe. Indeed Use The 3/8 Line For A Return. That's The Best Set Up.
I dont recall non AC cars with a return line, give me a few and I`ll look it up. But high HP solid lifter engines dont have return lines except injected and supercharged.
I dont recall non AC cars with a return line, give me a few and I`ll look it up. But high HP solid lifter engines dont have return lines except injected and supercharged.
My 73 vert has a return line an no evidence of A/C.
My 73 vert has a return line an no evidence of A/C.
I just looked the 73 up, part # 41240. Fits 73-79 350 Vettes. Yes your correct as I just pulled that # and it is a deep can style with 3 lines. I presume as being near the heavy smog controls installed on the car and the fact that the engines were reqired to operate at a much higher temperature the return was necessary to prevent vapor lock even without AC.
From: Edgewater (20 miles south of Daytona) Florida
Wrong
Originally Posted by Ironcross
3/8 line is adequate, no need to change. Return lines were used on lower HP AC cars.
The need for a return line in a PERFORMANCE vehicle is different than a stock one. It was done for emissions on the vette, but for performance, it's done to run better pressures with out blowing the needle and seat out. It ensures a full supply to the bowels at all times, and no more. Do the return line. BG suggests even a LARGER return line. Check into it and you'll find this is good advise.
The need for a return line in a PERFORMANCE vehicle is different than a stock one. It was done for emissions on the vette, but for performance, it's done to run better pressures with out blowing the needle and seat out. It ensures a full supply to the bowels at all times, and no more. Do the return line. BG suggests even a LARGER return line. Check into it and you'll find this is good advise.
I monitor fuel pressure from the pumps to the regulator mounted very close to the carbs and I get 16 pounds. A high quality regulator with 4 outlet ports feed the 4 float bowls 6 pounds of pressure. How will a return line improve my pressure to the carbs and prevent blowing the needle and seat when all the carb sees is 6 pounds?????
I monitor fuel pressure from the pumps to the regulator mounted very close to the carbs and I get 16 pounds. A high quality regulator with 4 outlet ports feed the 4 float bowls 6 pounds of pressure. How will a return line improve my pressure to the carbs and prevent blowing the needle and seat when all the carb sees is 6 pounds?????
I monitor fuel pressure from the pumps to the regulator mounted very close to the carbs and I get 16 pounds. A high quality regulator with 4 outlet ports feed the 4 float bowls 6 pounds of pressure. How will a return line improve my pressure to the carbs and prevent blowing the needle and seat when all the carb sees is 6 pounds?????
Norval: You're being very mean to your pumps. If you think about it, what happens if you prevent an electric motor from spinning? It will draw a bunch of current and get real hot. That's what you're doing to your pumps. They want to pump an enormous volume of fuel but the regulator dead heads and only allows them to deliver a fraction of the designed volume except at WOT. So the pumps are being highly stressed (electrically and thermally).
Compare this to a return system. This allows the pumps to pump the full volume even at idle. Any unused fuel is returned to the tank. The pumps draw much less current and also receive much better cooling as they are cooled by the fuel they pump.
Running an electric pump dead-head might work (atleast for a while) but it's not the correct way to do it.
Someone might have noticed there is no return line on the new LS1's but they still have a return except it's inside the tank. They then use higher pressure (58 PSI) to the engine to avoid boiling fuel.
I run a Holley blue pump close to the tank and regulator close to carb and also a pressure guage at carb,when cold the psi is 6.5 ,after running around town in 85 -90 degree temps I check my pressure guage and it reads 0 psi and the pump is still working, So I hooked my old return line back up after the carb and it helped sum , the temps under the hood I believe is what causes my fuel pressure to drop even with a return line ,but when the temp is 50 no problem,I guess no vapor lock in cool climates,
But with the return line I bumped the psi to 8 when cold and after shes hot I have 6psi,I do want to fix this someday so i can run some nitros.
Norval: You're being very mean to your pumps. If you think about it, what happens if you prevent an electric motor from spinning? It will draw a bunch of current and get real hot. That's what you're doing to your pumps. They want to pump an enormous volume of fuel but the regulator dead heads and only allows them to deliver a fraction of the designed volume except at WOT. So the pumps are being highly stressed (electrically and thermally).
Compare this to a return system. This allows the pumps to pump the full volume even at idle. Any unused fuel is returned to the tank. The pumps draw much less current and also receive much better cooling as they are cooled by the fuel they pump.
Running an electric pump dead-head might work (atleast for a while) but it's not the correct way to do it.
Someone might have noticed there is no return line on the new LS1's but they still have a return except it's inside the tank. They then use higher pressure (58 PSI) to the engine to avoid boiling fuel.
Finally someone understands fuel delivery.If you want to learn call john radymeyer at product engineering,he can educate you in fuel delivery quickly as he was a pioneer at nasa long ago.You can also get a pump
that runs a return right off the pump which allows you to not have to run a return from the regulator.
Why do you need a return line? I run a rigid 1/2 inch stainless line with twin electric pumps at the tank and a good regulater at the motor. Why return fuel to the tank with an electric pump. Vapor lock is not a problem with pusher pumps.