Timing Marks on 82(L83)
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Timing Marks on 82(L83)
Hi, I have an 82, which has an l83. I needed to replace the camshaft because it had worn. I ordered a Comp Cam (12-388) and installed it as recommended by Comp Cams(bought the video). I also installed a new (OE) Timing Set. I referred to my Chilton guide and the timing marks for 80-82 are supposed to be at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock. Something doesn't feel right about this.... When I installed the Distributor it installs at 90 degrees further left that I would expect (compared to when I removed it). I called Comp Cams to confirm my process was accurate and they said I had done everything correctly. I have not put the timing cover on yet because I still have this nagging feeling that something is wrong.
Any direction you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Bob
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,521
Likes: 4
From: Windham, NH
Did you drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off? If not then it is possiable to start & run the engine FOR LESS THAN A MINUTE to double check things before buttoning it up. Personally, I would pull #1 spark plug, bring it to top dead center compression and verify that the distributor rotor is facing #1 on the cap.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
When installing the camshaft, the dots on the crank gear and cam gear should be directly opposite from eack other. Cam dot at 6 o-clock, crank dot at 12 o-clock, like Chevy has been doing forever. That beign said, that is the firing position for #6. Now, after the cam bolts are tight, you may rotate the crank 360 degrees to the #1 firing position. Cam dot is now at 12 o-clock, and the crank dot is at 12 o-clock. Now stab the distributor....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
I haven't pulled one so I dont have personal experience.. but I have read a number of times where there's a pin inside the shaft where the distributor is installed that can block it from seating properly. I think it was either a big old screwdriver to push that in or a bump the engine until it synchs with the distributor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
Originally Posted by TheKomoman
I haven't pulled one so I dont have personal experience.. but I have read a number of times where there's a pin inside the shaft where the distributor is installed that can block it from seating properly. I think it was either a big old screwdriver to push that in or a bump the engine until it synchs with the distributor.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,391
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Install the cam with both dots at 12:00 (straight up). This is top dead center on the compression stroke for #1. With the cam installed in this position, you should drop the distributor in so that the rotor points to the #1 tower in the cap with the distributor body in the desired clocking position. The distributor can be installed in any position you choose, but the correct orientation for the HEI is with the electrical connection pointing squarely out to the driver's side at 90 degrees. In this position, you need to point the rotor to the #1 tower in the cap, which is the forward driver's side tower. With the dstributor installed like this and both timing dots pointing straight up (12:00), the engine will fire and run.
Note that the you can install the cam with both dots either straight up or pointing together since the cam rotates at 1/2 crankshaft speed. Either way will give you a correct cam installation. It's just that for correct distributor installation you need to have both dots straight up to be in the firing position for #1.
Note that the you can install the cam with both dots either straight up or pointing together since the cam rotates at 1/2 crankshaft speed. Either way will give you a correct cam installation. It's just that for correct distributor installation you need to have both dots straight up to be in the firing position for #1.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thank You
Thank you everyone. I will finish this project up this weekend and post another reply. On a side note, I find this forum invaluable. I am a novice and this is the first project I am attempting. It is great to know you are there. I hope that I will be able to assist someone else once I cut my teeth.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 2
From: Montreal Qc.
Oh, after you have TDC on your gears etc, don't turn it until you put your balancer on. In case your balancer has slipped you can mark it with something (a line of orange paint is pretty easy to see on mine). On mine the balancer timing mark was nearly 90* off. I also marked the INSIDE of the lower pulley (which will always stay lined up with the crank/keyway/etc) in case the balancer ring slips again.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
Originally Posted by murphy82
Thank you everyone. I will finish this project up this weekend and post another reply. On a side note, I find this forum invaluable. I am a novice and this is the first project I am attempting. It is great to know you are there. I hope that I will be able to assist someone else once I cut my teeth.Brent...
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Finished
The Cam is installed and the car is running. A little rough but some tuning will fix that. I was having trouble starting the car and went through eveything before I notice I had no compression. I followed the directions about setting the valve train to 0 lash + 1/2 turn. I over tightened the valves leaving them open(I followed the instructions on the video). I found an article that stated move the push rod up and down instead of spinning them. When I did that my compression returned and the car started on the second crank.
I can tell the car runs much smoother and has a lot more power. The whole thing took me about 16 hours and I am a novice.
I still have a check engine light on so I am going to buy a cheap code reader and troubleshoot the codes that it returns.
Thanks again everyone for your input!
I can tell the car runs much smoother and has a lot more power. The whole thing took me about 16 hours and I am a novice.
I still have a check engine light on so I am going to buy a cheap code reader and troubleshoot the codes that it returns.
Thanks again everyone for your input!
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,706
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Originally Posted by murphy82
I still have a check engine light on so I am going to buy a cheap code reader and troubleshoot the codes that it returns.
If, however, you found an aftermarket cam that works well in these, that would be very useful information.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 511
Likes: 4
From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by murphy82
I still have a check engine light on so I am going to buy a cheap code reader and troubleshoot the codes that it returns.
How much different is this cam than the stock one. Too much different and you may have to do some tunning. You may want to build a ALDL cable and talk to your computer to get a better idea of what the issue might be.
http://winaldl.joby.se/
Sounds like you're still mostly stock. If you have issues with it you can always ask over at the crossfire site. They might know exactly what you're up against.
http://www.crossfire.webhop.net/
