C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 01:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by artvette
Just installed this product into my 70 but can't road test until I swing the BB back in this week. Anyone have this conversion and were you happy with it?
EXTREMELY happy with it.

Even though I had some initial problems, those were all worked out with Speed Direct, the rack manufacture and I. I have over 4000 miles on the system since I installed it in May (2000 miles in 'manual' mode and 2000+ miles hooked up to power) and I love every mile now.
The car drives like new, doesn't 'hunt' or move around on the road. There is no dead spot in the steering and the car is very stable and predictable now.

Best thing for an old car would be to upgrade all the bushings, new shocks, new brakes and Steeroids.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:07 AM
  #22  
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Best thing for an old car would be to upgrade all the bushings, new shocks, new brakes and Steeroids.[/QUOTE]

Yeh, that is another very obvious point, everything has to be nearly new in order to react like a new car....well duhhhhh.......

I disagree the suspension is all that antiquated, maybe there are some flaws in the rear geometry, but I suspect only a full blown racer would notice them on a track SCCA style....but I suspect it would take a bit to really make any significant improvements in the front suspension...
one of the guys here, Norval, did a LOT of work on his front suspension, but he is in Canada, so I have never seen his car in person, let alone drive it....he is the one to comment about the success of his front suspension mods/value of them...

GENE
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mrvette
one of the guys here, Norval, did a LOT of work on his front suspension, but he is in Canada, so I have never seen his car in person, let alone drive it....he is the one to comment about the success of his front suspension mods/value of them...

GENE
Besides totally replacing everything and going to coilovers all around I spent alot of time eliminating Bump steer. Bump steer is toe change caused by suspension movement.
It is easy to get 1 inch or more toe in or out just because the suspension moves up or down under drivng conditions.
.015 is too much and yet all production cars except the viper have this problem. I tested a new mustang and it had 3/4 toe in with 3 inches suspension rise and that was good.
My vet had close to 2 inches under extreme suspension deflection.
When a car looses control at high speed it is often this bump that causes the trouble.
I could go on and on but I will not.
If you need to know more about bump and how to correct just ask and I will run a post on bump for the new guys.
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Old Jul 31, 2005 | 06:25 PM
  #24  
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Just to let anyone who's interested know, the Steerioids system is fantastic! I got the alignment almost ***** on during the install and needed very little adjustment during alignment, the steering wheel was dead on center without having to reposition it and with the ES poly suspension parts in the arms and stabilizer along with the new ball joints, the car tracks totally true over rough spots at speed. You really can drive it with two fingers and it doesn't demand 1/4 of the attention it did with the stock system. I mean at 90 mph you hardly have to move the wheel more than an inch off center to correct for anything on a straight road. For those who don't have this, you're really missing something worthwhile. The only complaint I have about anything is that the install sheet pictures are worthless. Thanks again for all the positive feedback.

Artie
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Old Jul 31, 2005 | 07:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by artvette
Just to let anyone who's interested know, the Steerioids system is fantastic! I got the alignment almost ***** on during the install and needed very little adjustment during alignment, the steering wheel was dead on center without having to reposition it and with the ES poly suspension parts in the arms and stabilizer along with the new ball joints, the car tracks totally true over rough spots at speed. You really can drive it with two fingers and it doesn't demand 1/4 of the attention it did with the stock system. I mean at 90 mph you hardly have to move the wheel more than an inch off center to correct for anything on a straight road. For those who don't have this, you're really missing something worthwhile. The only complaint I have about anything is that the install sheet pictures are worthless. Thanks again for all the positive feedback.

Artie
So if you had to take a guess, how much time and money did you put into the new steering system? I've pondered this mod, but am still unsure...it's one of my top 3, right after a Tremec 5-speed and fuel injection!
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Old Jul 31, 2005 | 10:22 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by WhichVette?
I hate that everybody has steeroids but me...
me too
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Old Aug 1, 2005 | 12:15 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 71SoCal
So if you had to take a guess, how much time and money did you put into the new steering system? I've pondered this mod, but am still unsure...it's one of my top 3, right after a Tremec 5-speed and fuel injection!
I got the unit at the shop cost of about $1000 and change (before the price increase). I believe some of the people on the Forum had looked into a group purchase at one time. You could still probably work a deal for around $1200 or less. With the Poly extras, shocks and ball joints I'd say about another $375. I'd say it took all of about 2 hours to get the unit into the car and adjust things (not counting the shocks and bushings). Granted, the engine was out as well as the old steering system. That said, I'd allow another 2-3 hours for pulling down the old system and busting knuckles around the left side mainfold to set up the u joints. It's really a pretty simple install. I think it only took me as long as it did because I like to fuss and clean while I'm working. I also did the install with the car up on jackstands and not a lift. I'd make it the top of my list as it's probably the cheaper of the 3 mods you mentioned and would give the most noticeable change (IMHO)
I've been toying with the idea of the Tremec too, but the M22 has such a great sound to it that I'm reluctant to part with it. I may just change the gearing in 4th to help with highway driving as I'm only running a 3:73 final. Good luck
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Old Aug 1, 2005 | 01:15 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by artvette
I got the unit at the shop cost of about $1000 and change (before the price increase). I believe some of the people on the Forum had looked into a group purchase at one time. You could still probably work a deal for around $1200 or less. With the Poly extras, shocks and ball joints I'd say about another $375. I'd say it took all of about 2 hours to get the unit into the car and adjust things (not counting the shocks and bushings). Granted, the engine was out as well as the old steering system. That said, I'd allow another 2-3 hours for pulling down the old system and busting knuckles around the left side mainfold to set up the u joints. It's really a pretty simple install. I think it only took me as long as it did because I like to fuss and clean while I'm working. I also did the install with the car up on jackstands and not a lift. I'd make it the top of my list as it's probably the cheaper of the 3 mods you mentioned and would give the most noticeable change (IMHO)
I've been toying with the idea of the Tremec too, but the M22 has such a great sound to it that I'm reluctant to part with it. I may just change the gearing in 4th to help with highway driving as I'm only running a 3:73 final. Good luck
That's a decent financial hit, but definitely not as bad as a new Tremec. I really hate my steering right now. It's power assisted, but won't even return from a turn without my helping it. I read a thread the other day suggesting that if your steering is sloppy, or tight to turn, it might just need an adjustment. I'll probably try that first.
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 01:34 AM
  #29  
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I did mine with one of the first Steeroid's Kits, shortly after Gene did his home grown swap, and I've loved it for many years now.

There's no comparison with a stock setup, new or otherwise!

The stock power assist is a joke with it's BS Control Valve creating center slop.

I too had to relieve the frame a litter around the top of the box, and do some grinding on the pass side mount, but nothing major and quilk to do with a Die Ginder. I also had a problem routing the supplied Low Pressure Hose, but made my own and all was good.

I spent about four hours installing it and ripping out the old.

My only complaint is that it hangs a lot lower, so I'm not sure it's a good idea on lowered cars, and I'm raising mine back up to stock F41 height on 27" tires etc.

My Shark now steers just about as well as my Z07 C4, thanks to Steeroids...

Doug



Originally Posted by mrvette
Best thing for an old car would be to upgrade all the bushings, new shocks, new brakes and Steeroids.
Yeh, that is another very obvious point, everything has to be nearly new in order to react like a new car....well duhhhhh.......

I disagree the suspension is all that antiquated, maybe there are some flaws in the rear geometry, but I suspect only a full blown racer would notice them on a track SCCA style....but I suspect it would take a bit to really make any significant improvements in the front suspension...
one of the guys here, Norval, did a LOT of work on his front suspension, but he is in Canada, so I have never seen his car in person, let alone drive it....he is the one to comment about the success of his front suspension mods/value of them...

GENE[/QUOTE]
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 03:54 AM
  #30  
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Just finishing the rebuild with Steeroids, Smart Struts, Tremec T56, all new poly bushings, shocks springs etc.etc. Shouild be on the road mid to late September. I will update you then on all of it, its been 18 months and I cant wait!!
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