Would anyone be interested in some cross drilled rotors?

Normal pricing for a PAIR OF 2 will be approx. $290.99 for the fronts.

Normal pricing for a PAIR OF 2 will be $282.99 for the rears.

If I get enough people interested (10) I can drop the price to $261.99 for the front pair and $254.99 for the rears.

If I get 15 people in, I can drop the price to $247.99 for the fronts and $240.99 for the rears.

10 People
Front Rear
$261.99 $254.99

15 People
Front Rear
$247.99 $240.99

Again these are for a pair of 2. They are American made rotors and they are zinc plated rotors. Computer Aided Design is employed to determine the optimum pattern for any size rotor. This pattern is critical, for it must correctly sweep the brake pad to increase its initial bite and allow for out gassing while also cleaning the entire brake pad surface.

The rears will be done in 2 weeks. If anyone is interested please reply in this post. Once we get 10 people, I can start taking orders. You DO NOT have to order both front & rears. If you only want the fronts, thats fine. If you only want the rears, thats fine.

If you have questions, I'll try to answer them as best I can. Thanks

Dan

 

Why are they so EXPENSIVE?????

 

Well if you think about it slotted rotors are $110. each. These if you get in on the discount can range anywhere from $130 - $146. each.

You want American Steel you gotta pay. I can buy $20 offshore rotors, charge you $70 but you'll get 1 run out of them. You get what you pay for.

 

At that sort of price point, I really hope those rotors have gone through thermal cycles to help prevent warping. From what I've seen, cross drilled rotors are a joke and are prone to warping, plus the holes really don't help dissipate heat nearly as well as quality gas-slots.

Have others shared in this experience?

I saw a '97 Saturn with cross drilled rotors installed, and after 1,000 miles of use, the pedal would pulsate badly when stopping. Sure, they grip better, but at what cost? Stock rotors last 60,000 miles.

the blonde weasel

 

 

Go to any Mercede's parking lot and look at the cars there. None will have slots just drilled. Look at all the new vettes w/Z51 package. None of them are slottted, just drilled.

It all comes down to the quality of the rotor. Yeah if you use offshore rotors and don't treat them they will be junk in a short amount of time. I had Power Slot slotted rotors and they lasted me 2 months of street driving before they went to crap. I didn't realize that they were offshore rotors and they were only slotted and not drilled.

 

lll take a set of rears. 2 weeks should be a good time by then I should have everything to send to you to put together a pair of your offset trailing arms. Ill spring for a set of the front also as soon as I can mug an old lady or something for the extra cash

 

Porshes also come with drilled rotors.

But....
Racers replace them with solid rotors, the rotors last longer and so do the pads.

Drilled or slotted rotors are like a cheese slicer on your pads.

But they do LOOK cool

 

It was my understanding that rotor warping was caused primarily by rapid heating and cooling cycles, which cause distortions in the metal. now it goes without saying that brake rotors will undergo rapid heating and cooling cycles. however, a cross drilled rotor will go from extreme heat to cold in a much quicker period of time due to the fact that the rotor cools more efficiently (thanks to the holes).

the reason Porsche's (I can't speak for Mercedes, I'm not familiar with their process) cross drilled rotors don't warp is because the holes are cast into the rotor, as opposed to a cheap aftermarket part where the rotor is cast whole, then holes are drilled in a CNC machine or otherwise. drilling after the item is cast can and will cause stress risers and lead to potential cracking down the road. Rapid heat cycling will compound the problem of stress risers.

it was my understanding that there were only two quality processes for producing long lasting cross drilled rotors: 1. cast the holes in the rotor (very expensive) 2. after the rotor is prepared and drilled, to subject it to thermal cycling in order to ensure that each rotor which leaves the factory is a quality casting.

now considering these rotors are selling at a $300 price point and not a $800 price point, i'm going to assume they aren't produced via method #1 mentioned above. the question is... besides the quality of the metal used for the casting (you have stated, "made in USA"), have they been heat-treated or thermally cycled to ensure their longevity and base quality?

is there a warranty on these rotors?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions and being very critical, but that's because I'm interested in a full conversion if the product proves to be as high of quality as you say.

thanks for your attention to these concerns

the blonde weasel
San Diego, CA

 

There is a 1 yr warranty on the rotors and they are heat treated.

 

This cross drilled rotor has been on the car over for more then 10 years without a problem. It still looks like new. All 4 of my rotors are like this.

 

Interesting floor jacks, Norval......

just kidding.

 

And these are drilled not cast rotors, correct?

 

Start hitting the autocross circuit every weekend for the summer and tell me how they work

 

They are actually the original rotors that came on the car new in 75. I drilled them in the early 90's to remove weight. None of the 4 rotors ever cracked around the holes. I drilled them myself and never chamfered the holes either.

 

I am not interested in autocrossing or drag racing. This is strictly a nice running street machine
Another shot of my drilled rotors. You guys talked me out of drilling the larger 14 inch rotor with all the talk about cracking between holes. I only drilled a few to satify my need to drill holes in everything

 

I am no expert, but I just replaced the rotors and pads on my S4. I called a couple of performance parts places to get an opinion on what to go with - I wanted something that would hold up on the track if I ever decide to hit a track day, but is okay to run on the street - and their opinion was the same as above. They said that the drilled rotors will rip up the material on a hi-performance pad. I went with their suggestions - a solid rotor and hi-performance street pads - and the results are impressive.

 

With all my holes in the old stock rotors I would have zero life expectance out of pads if that was true.
I never have a problem with premature pad wear. Never.

 

Norval.
You HAVE to understand this...
There is a world of difference between street driving and track driving. Rotors get very hot on the track and then cool then very hot again. Pedal pressures are very high.

On a track you are WOT or full brake. very hard on the pads and rotors.

I think you are confusing the issue.