Cross Drilled Rotors
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 427V8
Norval.
You HAVE to understand this...
There is a world of difference between street driving and track driving. Rotors get very hot on the track and then cool then very hot again. Pedal pressures are very high.
On a track you are WOT or full brake. very hard on the pads and rotors.
I think you are confusing the issue.
You HAVE to understand this...
There is a world of difference between street driving and track driving. Rotors get very hot on the track and then cool then very hot again. Pedal pressures are very high.
On a track you are WOT or full brake. very hard on the pads and rotors.
I think you are confusing the issue.
I came home last night across country , about 65 miles running hard with a very fast VBP suspenioned front and back 383 running in the 100 mph range even in some of the corners. Alot of stops signs running those back roads, on the brakes hard and then slipping through the stop signs and off again. My brakes are doing what they are supose to, stopping me hard from a high rate of speed. That is what they are supose to do. I don't drive 4 hours to a track, get a few laps and then go home. Why do I want to invest in special brakes if my homemade set work great?? NO warping, no cracking and no complaints.
We all like to think we drive race cars in our minds but they are nothing but street cars occassionaly some see the track.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Jul 21, 2005 at 08:02 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I'm not confusing the issue. We drive STREET cars. 99% of us spend all our time on the street. For those that do OCCASIONAL drive on a track still 99% of mileage is racked up on the street.
We all like to think we drive race cars in our minds but they are nothing but street cars occassionaly some see the track.
We all like to think we drive race cars in our minds but they are nothing but street cars occassionaly some see the track.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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and what if you do some spirited driving and your rotor cracks? Not racing is certainly not a guarantee that a drilled rotor won't crack, there was a topic about it some time ago with no shortage of pictures of cracked rotors, do you really think none of those are street cars? I'm willing to bet that a good percentage of them never saw the track.
Thread Starter
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From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
and what if you do some spirited driving and your rotor cracks? Not racing is certainly not a guarantee that a drilled rotor won't crack, there was a topic about it some time ago with no shortage of pictures of cracked rotors, do you really think none of those are street cars? I'm willing to bet that a good percentage of them never saw the track.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
and what if you do some spirited driving and your rotor cracks? Not racing is certainly not a guarantee that a drilled rotor won't crack, there was a topic about it some time ago with no shortage of pictures of cracked rotors, do you really think none of those are street cars? I'm willing to bet that a good percentage of them never saw the track.
I like to drive spirited too and have made 3 panic stops in a row from 100 mph just for testing. I was really driving spirited last night and put about 160 miles on the car over the last 2 nights.
They are only rotors, if they fail replace them. My front 14 inch rotors are about the most expensive on this forum at over $700 plus hours of machining and drilling. If they crack I will just replace them.
I also 4 for rotors with about 960 holes in total that have not cracked. I did use performance friction metalic pads on them for a while until I watched them getting chewed up so I went back to organic.
Again they are really only a throw away item anyway.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Those rotors are well over 200$ a pop here, maybe as high as 300$ since they're heavy. Not really nickles and dimes. However when it comes to cracking, it's not the rotor being junk that worries me but what if you don't spot the crack and the whole thing comes flying apart.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
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From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by 427V8
Yep, Porshe rotors are all made offshore 
Cheap *** Germans
Cheap *** Germans
I referring more toward china as offshore. They are the ones w/the cheap metal. Brembo make excellent rotors too and they are offshore.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,020
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From: Oregon City , Oregon USA
Got any pics? These might be just what I am looking for since the only other ones I have seen look like they were gold cad plated. I sure wish someone wold make a larger setup that wouldn't get lost in larger wheels. I wonder if chevrolet might have done any testing on the C-6 with the drilled rotors. Yea they probably all cracked but they said let's just run em anyway. Right.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2000
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From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by hermit
Got any pics? These might be just what I am looking for since the only other ones I have seen look like they were gold cad plated. I sure wish someone wold make a larger setup that wouldn't get lost in larger wheels. I wonder if chevrolet might have done any testing on the C-6 with the drilled rotors. Yea they probably all cracked but they said let's just run em anyway. Right.
No pics but these are also gold cad plated. I've seen other gold cad plated ones but they were dimpled not drilled.
All C6's w/the Z51 package come w/drilled rotors. I was just at the plant 3 weeks ago and saw them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
and what if you do some spirited driving and your rotor cracks? Not racing is certainly not a guarantee that a drilled rotor won't crack, there was a topic about it some time ago with no shortage of pictures of cracked rotors, do you really think none of those are street cars? I'm willing to bet that a good percentage of them never saw the track.
I don't think anybody here abuses their car enough to crack a drilled rotor so we are worring about something that will never happen for 99.9 % of us.
gkull, myself, clutchdust and maybe a few others are the only ones who put their car on a roadcourse for 20 minute sessions and drive the car to the limit without cooling ducts. You can't possibly abuse your car to that extent on the street. Autocross doesn't even come close to heating up the brakes, only high speed events.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I posted this already under metalic pads but it applies here as well
I always feel driving is about smoothness. You try to maintain as much smoothness as possible. I don't go into corners if I can help it and then jam on the brakes. I try to straighten the corner out and at the same time maintain as much speed as possible. This is good smooth driving with less wear and tear on the engine and brakes.
I also don't come up to stop signs and hit the brakes really hard. Sure I am moving and usually take the stop at a 2nd gear roll but agian I am trying for smoothness.
While turning the rotors in the lathe I found the 32 curved vanes really pumped the air. The air comming off them was like a strong fan. They really do pump air from the center out.
As for maintaining the car I seem to go over it almost weekly to try and spot a problem and that includes a visual brake rotor inspection.
I always feel driving is about smoothness. You try to maintain as much smoothness as possible. I don't go into corners if I can help it and then jam on the brakes. I try to straighten the corner out and at the same time maintain as much speed as possible. This is good smooth driving with less wear and tear on the engine and brakes.
I also don't come up to stop signs and hit the brakes really hard. Sure I am moving and usually take the stop at a 2nd gear roll but agian I am trying for smoothness.
While turning the rotors in the lathe I found the 32 curved vanes really pumped the air. The air comming off them was like a strong fan. They really do pump air from the center out.
As for maintaining the car I seem to go over it almost weekly to try and spot a problem and that includes a visual brake rotor inspection.
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 432
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From: Manchvegas NH
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
With all my holes in the old stock rotors I would have zero life expectance out of pads if that was true.
I never have a problem with premature pad wear. Never.
I never have a problem with premature pad wear. Never.
Taken from StopTech's FAQ:
Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?
StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
I'm happy with my setup, you're happy with yours.
BTW: I agree with your smoothness comment. Smoothness = speed.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
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Another wrench tossed in:
"IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable."
"IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable."
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
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From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Originally Posted by turtlevette
I don't think anybody here abuses their car enough to crack a drilled rotor so we are worring about something that will never happen for 99.9 % of us.
gkull, myself, clutchdust and maybe a few others are the only ones who put their car on a roadcourse for 20 minute sessions and drive the car to the limit without cooling ducts. You can't possibly abuse your car to that extent on the street. Autocross doesn't even come close to heating up the brakes, only high speed events.
gkull, myself, clutchdust and maybe a few others are the only ones who put their car on a roadcourse for 20 minute sessions and drive the car to the limit without cooling ducts. You can't possibly abuse your car to that extent on the street. Autocross doesn't even come close to heating up the brakes, only high speed events.
My stock brakes completely lost it my last time up there on them the pads were worn into a football shape, thin on the ends, thick in the middle. They were also boiling the fluid. I've been on the Wilwood wagon since ( now if I can just iron out a few issues with other things I can go thrash the car again up there
