header gaskets
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
header gaskets
I've heard the copper gaskets are the best. True/false ???
Those Mr Gasket copper gaskets are $45 at the local store - worth the money ?? Any difference between copper gaskets from other manufacturers ??
Edit:
Thanks for the replies
I got my new sidepipes yesterday and the gaskets that came with the Hooker headers look a little 'cheap' ... the gaskets that I removed were ripped in pieces and the sealing surfaces on the old headers and the heads were black in several areas which indicates a leak...
Should I just use the gaskets that came with the Hookers or get some better ones ?? This means I'll have to order and wait a few days - the only ones available are the copper Mr Gasket gaskets...
Those Mr Gasket copper gaskets are $45 at the local store - worth the money ?? Any difference between copper gaskets from other manufacturers ??
Edit:
Thanks for the replies
I got my new sidepipes yesterday and the gaskets that came with the Hooker headers look a little 'cheap' ... the gaskets that I removed were ripped in pieces and the sealing surfaces on the old headers and the heads were black in several areas which indicates a leak...
Should I just use the gaskets that came with the Hookers or get some better ones ?? This means I'll have to order and wait a few days - the only ones available are the copper Mr Gasket gaskets...
Last edited by MYBAD79; Jul 20, 2005 at 02:33 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 520
Likes: 5
From: Front Range
supposedly they seal better, but unless you have a pristine mating surface for the gasket, it will take some work to stop any leaks. My problem with them is at that price point, I could buy four sets of standard exhaust gaskets and be set for the next 40-60K miles of services.
tbw
tbw
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 5
From: Granbury, TX
I use Flow Tech 3 ply metal gaskets on all my cars. They require no sealant, are nice and thick for a good seal and are reusable.
I just removed the headers from the Z-28 after 2 years of use and the gaskets are still good.
Make sure you use lock washers (Mr. Gasket and others make them) on the header bolts to keep tension on the bolts and pressure on the sealing face. There are other more complicated ways to lock your bolts, but this has worked for me. Good luck.
I just removed the headers from the Z-28 after 2 years of use and the gaskets are still good.
Make sure you use lock washers (Mr. Gasket and others make them) on the header bolts to keep tension on the bolts and pressure on the sealing face. There are other more complicated ways to lock your bolts, but this has worked for me. Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 5
From: Granbury, TX
I use Flow Tech 3 ply metal gaskets on all my cars. They require no sealant, are nice and thick for a good seal and are reusable.
I just removed the headers from the Z-28 after 2 years of use and the gaskets are still good.
Make sure you use lock washers (Mr. Gasket and others make them) on the header bolts to keep tension on the bolts and pressure on the sealing face. There are other more complicated ways to lock your bolts, but this has worked for me. Good luck.
I just removed the headers from the Z-28 after 2 years of use and the gaskets are still good.
Make sure you use lock washers (Mr. Gasket and others make them) on the header bolts to keep tension on the bolts and pressure on the sealing face. There are other more complicated ways to lock your bolts, but this has worked for me. Good luck.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
Originally Posted by Fevre
Earl's graphite seal up my wavy headers.
The inserts can be bought seperately once you by the whole thing with the alum keepers.
The inserts can be bought seperately once you by the whole thing with the alum keepers.
Brett
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,128
Likes: 21
From: North Alabama
Originally Posted by Clint's C3
I use Flow Tech 3 ply metal gaskets on all my cars. They require no sealant, are nice and thick for a good seal and are reusable.
I just removed the headers from the Z-28 after 2 years of use and the gaskets are still good.
Make sure you use lock washers (Mr. Gasket and others make them) on the header bolts to keep tension on the bolts and pressure on the sealing face. There are other more complicated ways to lock your bolts, but this has worked for me. Good luck.
I just removed the headers from the Z-28 after 2 years of use and the gaskets are still good.
Make sure you use lock washers (Mr. Gasket and others make them) on the header bolts to keep tension on the bolts and pressure on the sealing face. There are other more complicated ways to lock your bolts, but this has worked for me. Good luck.
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
It's been my experience that no matter how good the gasket is that comes down to the type of bolts holding the flange solid.
I've used them all and just a touch of Permatex red high temp glueing the bolt or Allen to the flange to keep them from rotating is all it takes.
I have also used ARP studs with the small universal 5/16th nuts in the past few motors.
I've used them all and just a touch of Permatex red high temp glueing the bolt or Allen to the flange to keep them from rotating is all it takes.
I have also used ARP studs with the small universal 5/16th nuts in the past few motors.
Last edited by gkull; Jul 20, 2005 at 03:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by gkull
It's been my experience that no matter how good the gasket is that comes down to the type of bolts holding the flange solid.
I've used them all and just a touch of Permatex red high temp gueing the bolt or Allen to the flange to keep them from rotating is all it takes.
I have also used ARP studs with the small universal 5/16th nuts in the past few motors.
I've used them all and just a touch of Permatex red high temp gueing the bolt or Allen to the flange to keep them from rotating is all it takes.
I have also used ARP studs with the small universal 5/16th nuts in the past few motors.
I ordered the Breslin locking bolts with the sidepipes - hopefully these work as advertized.....
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I don't know about your type, but those stage 8 suck because they don't tell you that they only work on small headers like 1 5/8th. I took the time to machine every hex centered washer to clear my hooker super comp 1 3/4 Then they still were not worth a crap because the bolts are so short that you only have a few threads holding them when you have a thick flange and header gaskets.
Studs just make it so easy to hang the gaskets and headers. No screwing around trying to get them in sequence because the bolt head is covered with a dimpled pipe
Studs just make it so easy to hang the gaskets and headers. No screwing around trying to get them in sequence because the bolt head is covered with a dimpled pipe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 1
From: Billings MT
I'll say it, but you won't listen. 
I have tried pretty much all the gaskets for exhaust and by far the most effective and maintenance free gasket is: NO GASKET
Have the headers trued if your unsure of the surface, apply a thin film of ultra-copper sealant, bolt up (use anti-seaze) and your done, no re-tightening, no leaks, no worries...
I didn't believe it either, but It has been nearly 2 years now, many 1/4 mile passes, driving on bumpy roads, and I haven't had to retighten them once, and I don't have a single leak.
IMHO there is no reason to waste $50.
I have tried pretty much all the gaskets for exhaust and by far the most effective and maintenance free gasket is: NO GASKET
Have the headers trued if your unsure of the surface, apply a thin film of ultra-copper sealant, bolt up (use anti-seaze) and your done, no re-tightening, no leaks, no worries...
I didn't believe it either, but It has been nearly 2 years now, many 1/4 mile passes, driving on bumpy roads, and I haven't had to retighten them once, and I don't have a single leak.
IMHO there is no reason to waste $50.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 668
From: FL
I use the Mr Gasket Ultra's that are graphite coated and steelcored with no problems. As several people have stated, the most important thing is have a flat header flange. When the header flange is too thin and warps, then you need the cool Earls or thick copper/aluminum gaskets. Hookers have nice thick flanges and seal up very well.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 4
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
I always used plain old cheapo exhaust manifold gaskets, NOT header gaskets. The exhaust manifolds are hotter than headers, so I figured they'd withstand the heat better. Never had problems.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
I'll say it, but you won't listen.
I have tried pretty much all the gaskets for exhaust and by far the most effective and maintenance free gasket is: NO GASKET
Have the headers trued if your unsure of the surface, apply a thin film of ultra-copper sealant, bolt up (use anti-seaze) and your done, no re-tightening, no leaks, no worries...
I didn't believe it either, but It has been nearly 2 years now, many 1/4 mile passes, driving on bumpy roads, and I haven't had to retighten them once, and I don't have a single leak.
IMHO there is no reason to waste $50.
I have tried pretty much all the gaskets for exhaust and by far the most effective and maintenance free gasket is: NO GASKET
Have the headers trued if your unsure of the surface, apply a thin film of ultra-copper sealant, bolt up (use anti-seaze) and your done, no re-tightening, no leaks, no worries...
I didn't believe it either, but It has been nearly 2 years now, many 1/4 mile passes, driving on bumpy roads, and I haven't had to retighten them once, and I don't have a single leak.
IMHO there is no reason to waste $50.
For the flange I place the header in the vise, engine side facing up and with a hawksaw cut the flange almost all the way through leaving just about 1/16 before completley cutting it in 2. I do this between each tube so that the 2 bolts pulling it to the engine head pull their individual tube tight. the cuts let it flex.
I found alot of problems before I went this route.
My headers have been on for years without a problem. I use normal stainless 3/8th allen head cap screws with a touch of anti seize. Once a season I tighten the bolts.