Pitman arm, Why so hard
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Johnsburg IL
Pitman arm, Why so hard
I am putting pitman back on rebuilt box and it seams to be stuck. I am certain I have lined up correctly and at 150 LBS there is still a 3/8" gap before appears seated.
Questions:
- Should I take the steer box out of the car and place in vice to install? If not, any cautions of potential damage trying to tighten while attached to the frame?
- How much gap should there be between the bottom of the steer box and the top of the pitman arm?
I thank all the members for their continual help!!!
Questions:
- Should I take the steer box out of the car and place in vice to install? If not, any cautions of potential damage trying to tighten while attached to the frame?
- How much gap should there be between the bottom of the steer box and the top of the pitman arm?
I thank all the members for their continual help!!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,214
Likes: 4,035
From: Connecticut, USA
The pitman arm end and splines are tapered so it will snug up tight. You can tighten it either in the car or vise. I like to snug them then tighten on the car. I bring the travel to one end so you're not going to whip through the travel. Use a 1-5/16" socket or wrench on it. Those 3/4" socket sets come in handy for these, get a 3/4x 1/2 adapter and use your 1/2 torque wrench to set. The arm will go on in 90* clocking so be sure you're in the right spot. Also be sure to have the box centered in rotation before connecting the centerlink or control valve.
Gary
Gary
Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Victoria Texas
It should be seated where it is at. The splines have a large grove so there is not a chance to get them out of line. I just finished the box rebuild on a 69 and it had some splines showing when the arm was reinstalled.
The shaft and arm have a taper to them, when you tighten the nut it seats the tapers together, this is why it is a bear to get them apart.
The shaft and arm have a taper to them, when you tighten the nut it seats the tapers together, this is why it is a bear to get them apart.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Johnsburg IL
Thanks for the info. It also seams like when wrenching on the arm while installed the arm runs into the frame so you are fighting both the tapper and the frame. I think I will do in a vice.
Appreciate the help very much!!
Appreciate the help very much!!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by colorado1967
Thanks for the info. It also seams like when wrenching on the arm while installed the arm runs into the frame so you are fighting both the tapper and the frame. I think I will do in a vice.
Appreciate the help very much!!
Appreciate the help very much!!
Advanced
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
for pitman arm removal under the car, after the nut was removed I used a cold chisle as a wedge (one of the seven basic tools of physics). wedging between the gear box side (above) and pitman arm (below) at the left side of the shaft and 
tap with the hammer. Then trade chisle to the right side of shaft and tap the hammer. one side of the shaft then the other. kind of like a removing seals motion. You could call this a one sided pickle fork 
but it worked nicely for me. 
no damage occured 
p.s. I also, used some blaster penetration oil.
tap with the hammer. Then trade chisle to the right side of shaft and tap the hammer. one side of the shaft then the other. kind of like a removing seals motion. You could call this a one sided pickle fork but it worked nicely for me. no damage occured p.s. I also, used some blaster penetration oil.
