Setting the points gap
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: CORTLANDT MANOR NY
Setting the points gap
I am replacing the points on my 70 for the first time and I am having trouble setting the gap.
With the condenser I can't get the feeler gage intothe points to check the gap. I can't reach it from the top because the weights are in the way.
This is the first time I am doing this in 25 years. What am I misssing?
With the condenser I can't get the feeler gage intothe points to check the gap. I can't reach it from the top because the weights are in the way.
This is the first time I am doing this in 25 years. What am I misssing?
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 3
You should set the points using a dwell meter-NOT a feeler gage.
The dwell meter hook up to the coil on the distributor side and ground, and depending upon the model to power. Most Chevys are set at 28 to 32 degrees dwell although some high performance models are different-you need to check the specs in the manual (service or possibly owners).
The dwell meter hook up to the coil on the distributor side and ground, and depending upon the model to power. Most Chevys are set at 28 to 32 degrees dwell although some high performance models are different-you need to check the specs in the manual (service or possibly owners).
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
You should be able to get close without buying a meter. I can't figure out where your problem is with the condenser, though.
Here's how I always do it:
- Remove dist cap and rotor
- loosen the screws that hold the dist plate slightly
- rotate engine by bumping starter (or remote starter switch) until the points are resting on the peak of the cam
- stick a screwdriver into the adjusting slot and adjust the point until they are at the correct gap (are you using a matchbook cover like you are supposed to ?
)
- tighten down screws and replace cap and rotor
If your distributor is one of those fancy new ones, you can reach through the window with an allen wrench to adjust the dwell, but you'll need the meter then...
good luck -
Here's how I always do it:
- Remove dist cap and rotor
- loosen the screws that hold the dist plate slightly
- rotate engine by bumping starter (or remote starter switch) until the points are resting on the peak of the cam
- stick a screwdriver into the adjusting slot and adjust the point until they are at the correct gap (are you using a matchbook cover like you are supposed to ?
)- tighten down screws and replace cap and rotor
If your distributor is one of those fancy new ones, you can reach through the window with an allen wrench to adjust the dwell, but you'll need the meter then...
good luck -
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
This is outside the question but it is well worth it to replace the point system with any of the many pointless type.
They never wear and you never have to adjust it. Instead of investing in a dwell meter put the money towards it.
If this is an original thing you can switch it back at any time.
They never wear and you never have to adjust it. Instead of investing in a dwell meter put the money towards it.
If this is an original thing you can switch it back at any time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 2
From: Engineers do it better.
Originally Posted by Techno
This is outside the question but it is well worth it to replace the point system with any of the many pointless type.
They never wear and you never have to adjust it. Instead of investing in a dwell meter put the money towards it.
If this is an original thing you can switch it back at any time.
They never wear and you never have to adjust it. Instead of investing in a dwell meter put the money towards it.
If this is an original thing you can switch it back at any time.
I just did the conversion on my 74 with the crane XRi unit. For $65, with built in rev limiter, you can't go wrong. Much smoother idle too 
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Originally Posted by desi
I just did the conversion on my 74 with the crane XRi unit. For $65, with built in rev limiter, you can't go wrong. Much smoother idle too I hear the Crane unit is a good one. I used the Pertronix Ignitor II ....
Works great....but it idles TOO SMOOTH !
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
7 Bolt-On Upgrades From Extreme Online Store to Level Up Your C6 Corvette
Pouria Savadkouei
How Likely Are These Five 2027 Corvette Rumors to Be True?
Brett Foote
9 Best Corvettes You Can Buy for Half Price (& 1 You Should NEVER Buy!)
Joe Kucinski
8 Very Best Corvettes of Amelia Island 2026
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 WORST Corvette Engineering Failures of All Time!
Joe Kucinski
10 Records the C8 Corvette Generation Has SMASHED (& 1 Glaring Failure)
Joe Kucinski
7 Wildest Corvette Concepts Ever Made
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: CORTLANDT MANOR NY
I want to keep the car original so I don't want to change to electronic distributor. Also I have had a Petronics system in another car before and it was crap. Left me high and dry 2x in a previous vette before I ditched it and went back to a points distributor.
I ended up setting the gap with a dwell meter. I thought it best to set it roughly with a feeler guage and then fine tune with the dwell meter. Unfortunately the positioning of the condenser on the points kit I got made it impossible to get a feeler guage on the points.
I installed the kit started it up and used the allen wrench to set the gap with a dwell meter. Car runs like a champ. Thanks for all your helpful comments.
I ended up setting the gap with a dwell meter. I thought it best to set it roughly with a feeler guage and then fine tune with the dwell meter. Unfortunately the positioning of the condenser on the points kit I got made it impossible to get a feeler guage on the points.
I installed the kit started it up and used the allen wrench to set the gap with a dwell meter. Car runs like a champ. Thanks for all your helpful comments.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by BUGGSY1970
I want to keep the car original so I don't want to change to electronic distributor. Also I have had a Petronics system in another car before and it was crap. Left me high and dry 2x in a previous vette before I ditched it and went back to a points distributor.
I ended up setting the gap with a dwell meter. I thought it best to set it roughly with a feeler guage and then fine tune with the dwell meter. Unfortunately the positioning of the condenser on the points kit I got made it impossible to get a feeler guage on the points.
I installed the kit started it up and used the allen wrench to set the gap with a dwell meter. Car runs like a champ. Thanks for all your helpful comments.
I ended up setting the gap with a dwell meter. I thought it best to set it roughly with a feeler guage and then fine tune with the dwell meter. Unfortunately the positioning of the condenser on the points kit I got made it impossible to get a feeler guage on the points.
I installed the kit started it up and used the allen wrench to set the gap with a dwell meter. Car runs like a champ. Thanks for all your helpful comments.
Just curious...are the points you bought one of those "unified" sets where the points and condensor are attached to each other? Sometimes those can be a pain to get at. Just a thought.
Also, if you do any high RPM driving, you can get heavier duty points with a stiffer spring that will prevent "point bounce" at higher RPMs.
NAPA stores have them or Jegs sells them under Accel's name.
There are two different spring tensions you can get. One is SUPER stiff and should only be used at the strip. One is moderately stiffer and can be used for street/strip. Got this info from Lars
Dep
Racer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 367
Likes: 16
From: London
Rougth Setting of Points Gap
Tony: Good idea on keeping the points
Just curious...are the points you bought one of those "unified" sets where the points and condensor are attached to each other? Sometimes those can be a pain to get at. Just a thought.
Also, if you do any high RPM driving, you can get heavier duty points with a stiffer spring that will prevent "point bounce" at higher RPMs.
NAPA stores have them or Jegs sells them under Accel's name.
There are two different spring tensions you can get. One is SUPER stiff and should only be used at the strip. One is moderately stiffer and can be used for street/strip. Got this info from Lars
Dep
Just curious...are the points you bought one of those "unified" sets where the points and condensor are attached to each other? Sometimes those can be a pain to get at. Just a thought.
Also, if you do any high RPM driving, you can get heavier duty points with a stiffer spring that will prevent "point bounce" at higher RPMs.
NAPA stores have them or Jegs sells them under Accel's name.
There are two different spring tensions you can get. One is SUPER stiff and should only be used at the strip. One is moderately stiffer and can be used for street/strip. Got this info from Lars
Dep
Last edited by PBCloud; Feb 12, 2023 at 10:23 AM. Reason: to add a note
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Racer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 367
Likes: 16
From: London
Oops! did not notice date I was just serching on Goggle for correct points gap and this came up.....should be more on the ball.
Its good to kmow you guys are on the ball for me......!
Setting twin points must be fun, I only have the single set.
Paul
Its good to kmow you guys are on the ball for me......!
Setting twin points must be fun, I only have the single set.
Paul
Last edited by PBCloud; Feb 12, 2023 at 10:24 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,292
Likes: 1,578
From: Western NY
Chevy point sets are adjusted with the allen wrench, and a dwell meter, AFTER the points are installed, and the engine is running, I've found the case to be that the points are "close enough" right out of the box, so you can at least start the engine, and only need a little "fine tuning" after the installation.
And YES, i realize this thread originated 18 years ago.........and the last time I set the dwell on a set of points, was about 18 years before that!!
And YES, i realize this thread originated 18 years ago.........and the last time I set the dwell on a set of points, was about 18 years before that!!
Racer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 367
Likes: 16
From: London
Looks like I have reignited this thread; dwell meter is definatly the right way to go, but so is following Lars paper for first setting up the distributor and timing correctly (which was invaluable) before you even get to the points.
Having only joined the forum a few years ago I did not realised it had been running for this long; I wonder just how many Corvette owners it has helped in that time.......
Paul
Having only joined the forum a few years ago I did not realised it had been running for this long; I wonder just how many Corvette owners it has helped in that time.......
Paul
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Where can you get a matchbook these days? Those vape things don't need fire I don't think
And if you did get one it's probably made so much thinner/cheaper these days the points would probably be touching all the time
M
And if you did get one it's probably made so much thinner/cheaper these days the points would probably be touching all the time
M