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Anybody seen a timing mark an inch or so above the scale at idle (advanced) (runs good at this point) with the tan wire unpluged? The balancer has not spun after checking it to match TDC on #1..
When I plug the tan wire back in after getting it running as descibed above, the timing is way advanced and the car wont start. This is a newly rebuilt motor by a very experienced shop. Completly stock internals and has the emision junk back on it.
If I remember correctly, with the by-pass connector disconnected, you set the static timing to 10 deg. btdc, at idle. When you reconnect the by-pass connector, restart the engine. The timing now should be about 22 deg. btdc., controlled by the ECM. The only reason I can think of that the car wont start, is that a problem exist with the ECM or related engine sensors.
I just set my timing to factory specs for emissions last week. I believe it was 6 deg Btdc. With the bypass wire disconnected the distributor does not advance. If you are setting it that high with it disconnected then when it is connected it will be even higher.
I would suggest bringing it back on the scale. Does it run poorly when initial is set to 6 BTDC then the connector put back on? Remember its a setting point, the engine will always be idleing with the connector on, so it'll be higher than that.
I just set my timing to factory specs for emissions last week. I believe it was 6 deg Btdc. With the bypass wire disconnected the distributor does not advance. If you are setting it that high with it disconnected then when it is connected it will be even higher.
I would suggest bringing it back on the scale. Does it run poorly when initial is set to 6 BTDC then the connector put back on? Remember its a setting point, the engine will always be idleing with the connector on, so it'll be higher than that.
I cant get to 6* BTDC, it wont run there. Its retarded to the point it dies. It is way up off the scale were it runs good with the tan wire unpluged. I shut the car off and plug the tan advance wire in and then its so far advanced it wont crank because of spark knock.
This is the crazyest thing I ever saw with timing....
Anybody seen a timing mark an inch or so above the scale at idle (advanced) (runs good at this point) with the tan wire unpluged? The balancer has not spun after checking it to match TDC on #1..
When I plug the tan wire back in after getting it running as descibed above, the timing is way advanced and the car wont start. This is a newly rebuilt motor by a very experienced shop. Completly stock internals and has the emision junk back on it.
Thanks for the help in advance!
i would check again to see if the distributer is in right.
If it's just been rebuilt, I'd double check every thing, starting with the easy stuff like vacume lines, emissions connections, and wiring. Sounds like somethings wrong, and it looks like the ecm is advancing the timing, at least with and without the connector attached.
If you can't figure it out, try posting on the CrossFire site, Someone might recognise the problem.
Thanks guys for the help. After rechecking everything again I saw nothing wrong. Then it dawned on me..... The ECM wasn’t adjusting the idle speed up for some reason. As I retarded the timing and the RPMs dropped the ECM didn’t adjust it up. So I shimmed the throttle stop to about 1K RPMs, when I retarded the timing to the 6* adv mark I was at the correct idle speed.
I shut it down then locked down the distributor, plugged in the EST bypass (tan) wire and removed the shim. Started it back up and it ran rough for about 20 seconds and smoothed out to the correct idle. I am now at 34-36* total advance at 2800 RPM...
I had another suggestion to correct the problem that I never heard of and I didn’t try it... Unplug the 4 wire harness from the distributor and then start it up and set the timing, leaving the EST tan wire plugged in... Tan wire is already in the 4 wire harness.. I dont think that will work because the module is then unplugged.. Anybody ever heard that one before?