Removing engine and tranny together?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 0
From: Beacon NY
Removing engine and tranny together?
I know I've read of people pulling the engines out of their cars with the tranny attached, but I just have a couple of questions.
I assume that automatic transmissions weigh more than manual transmissions. Is that added weight an issue when pulling them together?
In order to get clearance at the front of the car, am I going to need to remove the radiator bracket/frame thing that the radiator attaches to?
Does anyone have any tips or advice? The only thing I've ever pulled out of a car before I started this project was an alternator
If it makes any difference, I have a '79 with a small block 350 and a TH350 automatic transmission.
Thanks in advance,
Victor
I assume that automatic transmissions weigh more than manual transmissions. Is that added weight an issue when pulling them together?
In order to get clearance at the front of the car, am I going to need to remove the radiator bracket/frame thing that the radiator attaches to?
Does anyone have any tips or advice? The only thing I've ever pulled out of a car before I started this project was an alternator
If it makes any difference, I have a '79 with a small block 350 and a TH350 automatic transmission.
Thanks in advance,
Victor
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
I pulled the engine/trans together out of my 74 (350/th400)this winter . your gonna need to remove the radiator but not the support frame. there are only 4 bolts that hold the engine and trans in the car 2 on the cross member and the 2 motor mounts .
tips:
1.remove cross member
2.get a good lift
3.make sure everything is disconnected (grounding straps, and all the linkage that attaches to the trans)
on the transmission there is a bracket that is hard to see , that holds some of linkage , i think its on top of the trans but i cant remeber. just go slow and make sure nothing is hanging
I did it by myself in like 3 hours but i recommend having someone there to help it makes it alot easier and safer.
tips:
1.remove cross member
2.get a good lift
3.make sure everything is disconnected (grounding straps, and all the linkage that attaches to the trans)
on the transmission there is a bracket that is hard to see , that holds some of linkage , i think its on top of the trans but i cant remeber. just go slow and make sure nothing is hanging
I did it by myself in like 3 hours but i recommend having someone there to help it makes it alot easier and safer.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,379
Likes: 1,067
From: Virginia USA
It's the only way to do it IMO. You don't need to pull the radiator. I just attached a piece of plywood on mine so it wouldn't get damaged. It may be different with an automatic. I have 4 speed. Take the hood off. It is light so it can be taken off with one person but two is a little safer. Just remove as much from the engine as you can like the carb. brackets and accessories, fuel pump, distributor etc. Most of all have fun. 
Last edited by theandies; Aug 10, 2005 at 05:45 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I allways consider the fluid problems with auto trannies, plus all the extra dis assy. of the front end to be just plain NOT worth it to pull them out together.....even with a stick shift....i'ts a PIA....gotta get that damn engine over the freaking bumper for the tail shaft to clear the firewall, and so when installing a fresh combo, maybe that's easier to tile the damn mess, but by the time it's done you gotta have the car jacked up with frame damn near 18 inches off the ground, then you got typical garage ceiling/overhead door clearance problems, etc....
even in my '72 shark here, i'ts easier to do them separately, I feel....WTH, 3 converter bolts, and some 6 bellhousing bolts, and two starter bolts, done....all of about 30 minits...
GENE
even in my '72 shark here, i'ts easier to do them separately, I feel....WTH, 3 converter bolts, and some 6 bellhousing bolts, and two starter bolts, done....all of about 30 minits...
GENE
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 18,478
Likes: 3
From: Quincy IL
here's what i did in 2000 pulling the 350 & th350 out of my 79, removed radiator, removed fan, fan clutch, water pump, basically everything and anything i could remove to get more forward movement, removed the hood. of course all hoses, electrical connections, fuel lines, ground straps, I removed my carb, just to protect it, and removed the exhaust headers. I had problems getting the auto trans lines loose from the tranny so I cut them, which means buying new ones. Get a cherry picker with the longest boom you can, because our vettes have a long nose. the other option is to place the cherry picker on the side of the car and pull the motor/trans that way, although this is harder IMHO. Also, don't get the car jacked up in the air to high, unless you're doing this outside or have a high ceiling in your garage. I seem to remember having to lower my car down because the cherry picker boom was hitting the rafters in the garage, and the motor/trans would not clear the car. good luck. I pulled the motor/trans myself, but on re-installation I had the wife help me.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 0
From: Beacon NY
Thanks a lot for the guidance. I have never really worked on a car before and the information on the forum has been invaluable.
It has taken me about a week to do it, but I pretty much have everything removed and ready to go. The hood, radiator, and all accessories are gone. The only thing I can think of that I have left is electrical connections to the carb and starter (which should be gone tonight).
Is the only thing connecting the shifter inside of the car to the transmission the cable that I see which runs along driver's side of the transmission fluid pan? Or, in order to remove the transmission, am I going to have to disassemble the interior console to disconnect everything from the inside? From what I can tell in the corvette assembly manual it looks like that cable is the only thing connecting the shifter directly to the transmission.
It has taken me about a week to do it, but I pretty much have everything removed and ready to go. The hood, radiator, and all accessories are gone. The only thing I can think of that I have left is electrical connections to the carb and starter (which should be gone tonight).
Is the only thing connecting the shifter inside of the car to the transmission the cable that I see which runs along driver's side of the transmission fluid pan? Or, in order to remove the transmission, am I going to have to disassemble the interior console to disconnect everything from the inside? From what I can tell in the corvette assembly manual it looks like that cable is the only thing connecting the shifter directly to the transmission.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
If you're taking out the entire engine/bellhousing/transmission stack, you really need, I believe, a tilt bar. With a tilt bar, you move the stack in its horizontal original position forward a little and then start tilting the nose of the engine up. I lifted from the front of the car and had to remove the radiator, but not the radiator frame.
I personally think that taking out the entire stack is easier. I know others disagree and prefer to take out the engine and then the transmission. I once had a bad experience laying under the car trying to get the transmission back into the clutch/bellhousing!! I personnaly find it's a lot easier to mate the transmission to the clutch/bellhousing outside the car. I work by myself and assembling the engine/bellhousing/transmission outside the means I can pretty much put the entire thing back in with very little help from others. (I don't have a removeable crossmember).
My $179 Harbor Freight worked out well. In the long run buying it was cheaper and more convenient than renting. I removed the engine/transmission outside of the garage. After the engine is removed it was easy to push the car back into the garage.
I personally think that taking out the entire stack is easier. I know others disagree and prefer to take out the engine and then the transmission. I once had a bad experience laying under the car trying to get the transmission back into the clutch/bellhousing!! I personnaly find it's a lot easier to mate the transmission to the clutch/bellhousing outside the car. I work by myself and assembling the engine/bellhousing/transmission outside the means I can pretty much put the entire thing back in with very little help from others. (I don't have a removeable crossmember).
My $179 Harbor Freight worked out well. In the long run buying it was cheaper and more convenient than renting. I removed the engine/transmission outside of the garage. After the engine is removed it was easy to push the car back into the garage.
