Muncie Rebuild Help
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Oakton VA
Muncie Rebuild Help
This is the first time I've taken apart a Muncie and I'm encountering a few problems that I need help with. I bought a rebuild kit and a video. The guy in the video makes it look easy - it literally falls apart by itself. Meanwhile back in my shop I have two problems:First, the main bearing seems to be stuck onto the main gear assembly. The video shows it coming off the input shaft with the help of a screwdriver or two. My bearing moves a little, but will not exit the housing because of the main gear. How much persuasion should I use and where?
Second, the counter shaft seems stuck. I got it to move a little (1/8") with some pounding, but again, I'm comcerned about how much force to apply. Any suggestions?
Second, the counter shaft seems stuck. I got it to move a little (1/8") with some pounding, but again, I'm comcerned about how much force to apply. Any suggestions?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,156
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From: Connecticut, USA
Ok basic question, are you sure you have a Muncie? Sounds like a ST-10, the front bearing is a bugger and there is a woodruff key in the countershaft end on those. Muncie front bearings are a looser fit and should come out without a lot of effort. If you have the video that Paul from 5 speeds sells it's a pretty good one.
Gary
Gary
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Oakton VA
Yep, It's a Muncie. The video is 5Speeds and their bearing sure is looser than mine. I'm reluctant to pry too much for fear of dinging the aluminum case. I'm soaking it with penetrating oil in the event it's corroded. I've banged on the shaft a bit, but again, not too much yet.
Dick
Dick
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
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From: Carmichael CA
Are you talking about the rear bearing:
or the front one?
Did you remove the retaining ring from around the main bearing? It's been awhile, but isn't the bearing pressed onto the shaft? However, the bearing should slide in and out of the housing with ease...as long as you remove the ring from the outside rim of the bearing.
The counter shaft has a hollow tube full of bearings running down the middle of it which has a rod pressed inside it which needs to be pulled out before the shaft itself will come out. The shaft is shimmed on each end, and that center tube tends to catch on the shims. In fact, if you can get in there with a screwdriver and poke one of the shims out and pull it out with some pliers then the countershaft will come out a lot easier.
or the front one?
Did you remove the retaining ring from around the main bearing? It's been awhile, but isn't the bearing pressed onto the shaft? However, the bearing should slide in and out of the housing with ease...as long as you remove the ring from the outside rim of the bearing.
The counter shaft has a hollow tube full of bearings running down the middle of it which has a rod pressed inside it which needs to be pulled out before the shaft itself will come out. The shaft is shimmed on each end, and that center tube tends to catch on the shims. In fact, if you can get in there with a screwdriver and poke one of the shims out and pull it out with some pliers then the countershaft will come out a lot easier.
Last edited by Rockn-Roll; Aug 20, 2005 at 04:57 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 111
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From: Oakton VA
Thanks, RnR. I'm talking about the main drive bearing - the front bearing. Yes, I took the retainer off. That keeps the bearing from going into the casing and shouldn't affect its removal outward.
It looks like the bearing and the shaft got married some way (corrision). I haven't tried the big hammer yet. No time last night, but still soaking with penetrating oil.
Dick
It looks like the bearing and the shaft got married some way (corrision). I haven't tried the big hammer yet. No time last night, but still soaking with penetrating oil.
Dick
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 428
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From: Everfrost Second Life
an alternative to the step in the video.
With the gear train removed from the case, leave the input shaft in the case with the outer snap ring on the front bearing. DO NOT bang on the end of the input shaft. Use something such as n old wrist pin to go around the input pilot area and either press it off on a press or use a hammer.
Paul - the guy in the video...
You can hit the countershafts pretty hard with a drift pin. You may have to press that out as well.
Paul - the guy in the video...
You can hit the countershafts pretty hard with a drift pin. You may have to press that out as well.
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