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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 06:17 PM
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Default tach problem

ok My tach isn't working,it stays around 2000rpm.when I start the car it will move a bit ,meaning maybe it's the printed circuit board behind the tach.But then again I ain't sure,it could also be the tach filter.

I checked the filter with a ohm meter and it reads,but I don't know what it 's supposed to read.Does anyone know what the resistance should be?or should I just replace the circuit board since I get a reading from my meter on the filter.

I just don't want to replace something that is still good


thanks
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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anyone?
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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I'm pretty sure the Tach Filter is not your problem. The filter eliminates spiking? if the filter doesn't work you won't see any activity on the tach at all.
Somebody else correct me if I'm wrong.

Kona
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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thanks for your info

I appreciate it
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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In my 75 the circuit board in the tach fried a circuit and was doing exactly what you said.when i looked at mine i could see the track burned up across two points. I simply solderd a small wire from connection to connection where it was fried and away it went.
the big pain is to get the board out in your hand.it will save you 60 bucks if u don't need to buy one.
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 10:44 PM
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that's a good idea.I've checked the circuit board and there seemed to be a burnt spot on it where a resistor is not reading with my ohm meter.
But would it be dangerous to fry something else by jumping that resistor?
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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The burnt part sounds like a zener diode, not a resistor.
When they fail, they fail short, which then blows the 12V trace.
Remove the part.
Jumper the blown trace.

This happened to mine and a board I saw in this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...540&forum_id=3

Can you post pics of both sides of the PCB to confirm?

gvn
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1024
The burnt part sounds like a zener diode, not a resistor.
When they fail, they fail short, which then blows the 12V trace.
Remove the part.
Jumper the blown trace.

This happened to mine and a board I saw in this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...540&forum_id=3

Can you post pics of both sides of the PCB to confirm?

gvn
will do first thing tomorrow morning..thanks
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 09:04 AM
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how do i attach the pics.....I press on insert picture but I can't browse my computer..........

Never mind..I read and understand

Last edited by 80_vette; Aug 22, 2005 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 09:13 AM
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[IMG][/IMG]


Hope this works

Where I put arrows is where I don't get any reults with my ohm meter.But it's probably not the way to test 'em,I ain't sure.

I've checked the traces and all seem to be fine
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by 80_vette; Aug 22, 2005 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 02:38 PM
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r u around kilroy1024?
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 07:55 PM
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Default Yeah, I'm here...

The circuit has changed quite a bit from the 76-77 version.
I think the part your pointing out is a .0047 uF capacitor.
It will read open with your meter.

Give me a few minutes to sort out this circuit.
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 07:57 PM
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looks fried to me. I would get a new one (about $100.00 or so from most vendors)...
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 08:52 PM
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that's what I was thinking too.
I can get one from corvette central for about 60$ plus shipping

But if I could fix this one it would be much better

Last edited by 80_vette; Aug 22, 2005 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 02:54 AM
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Default Tach Info

Ive posted a couple of quick voltage checks on a website:
http://members.shaw.ca/gvn/index.html
See the 1980 page, I used your picture, I hope that's OK?


I will try and add a schematic later in the week.
Could you please tell what the rest of the numbers on D2 are?
It looks like a 1N52XX.
I'm expecting it to be something like a 1N5232, which should measure close to ~6V.

I can tell you what that voltage shoud be if I have the number.

gvn
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 09:59 AM
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well I don't see the 2 first didits.I only see a "M" shape symbol.But the rest of the numbers are...5204.

hpe that helps you in any way.

Thanx alot for your help.I really appreciate it
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 07:44 AM
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ok I need some ppl opinion.I am ready to buy new stuff,I either need a new circuit board or the tach filter.From some of you guys experience,which one is more likely to fail?some tell me the board and others say the filter.............

anybody want to give me their opinion?
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 08:55 AM
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I had two tach filters go bad in a ten year period in my 1980 L-82. Never had a circuit board go bad--but some people have had that problem. Most people it seems find the problem is the filter. I would replace that first.

FYI: I have an "extra" complete 1980 L-82 tach unit (6,000 rpm redline; L-82 on the face) if you are interested and find it is not the tach filter.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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I have gone through the total gamut trying to get my tach to work. I have replaced the printed circuit, tach board and the tach filter with no sucess.My last advise from the forum was that the tach board that I got was from Ecklers and they regularly sell brand new boards that do not work. I have signal from my distributor yet my tach never moves. My advise being if you need the tach board get it from Corvete Central. Brent
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 09:04 PM
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thanks alot guys ..

I'll look into it.

Corvette central is where I buy all my stuff,so I guess I should start with the filter and see what happens....
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