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I am trying to get this thing to run right. When i went to adjust the timing the sticker under the hood says 6 degrees BTC which mean before top dead center or what? I put it to that and it is really bad. Should it be 6 degrees after TDC? It was at 12 degrees and it would studder sometimes when you would step on it. Could this just be something else like the carb?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You need to set the car up for total timing: Total timing (with vac disconnected) needs to be 36 degrees. This will, in most cases, give you an initial timing somewhere in the 12-18 degree range. Then, make sure your vacuum advance control unit is functioning and hooked up correctly. It should pull in an additional 16-20 degrees of timing at idle, running your combined total timing at idle with vac hooked up at around 30-34 degrees.
The factory 6-degree spec is for emissions purposes only, and will not produce a performance setup.
I am trying to get this thing to run right. When i went to adjust the timing the sticker under the hood says 6 degrees BTC which mean before top dead center or what? I put it to that and it is really bad. Should it be 6 degrees after TDC? It was at 12 degrees and it would studder sometimes when you would step on it. Could this just be something else like the carb?
My L48 ran like crap when I got it. I replaced the rotor, dist. cap, and plugs and set the timing on about 10 to 12 and I ran 100% better. If yours still won't run after doing this then look at the carburator. Remember, it's not a race engine, but should run decent when tuned properly.
Right, I know this but it is gutless, and doesn't run "like it should". I was at a little abouve 12 degrees when i started. So are you telling me that i shuold look into the carb. I noticed there is a small leak coming from the bottom of the carb only when it is running. It is not even noticeable until you drive it around, then there will be some varnished gas by it in a spot. Should I look into a new carb, if so what one.
Now that you say something, I was reving it up at the carb, and there was no fuel spraying into the back barrels. the ones at the rear of the engine. Only the ones at the front with the choke flap over them. Could this be the problem. BTW the choke was all of the way open i took it out to get it warm before messing with the timing.
The carb has vacuum operated secondaries. It is hard to load the engine while the vehicle is stationary. If you hold the throttle full open for a second, you should see the air valve open a little.
I had a problem timming my 78 when i got it. Always heard of stories of slipped balancers. Actually had that problem. Outer part of the balancer slipped and could get any timming mark. Took about an hour to figure out what it was.
Mike
No, it wasn't that. I got the timing at about 12 degrees, but it still rins rough. I think that I need a new carb. when I remove the vacum advance hose with it running. Nothing happens. And it is a very new distributor.
when I remove the vacum advance hose with it running. Nothing happens. And it is a very new distributor.
your advance is probably on a ported line - which means the line is not sucking until you increase the rpm.... with the timing light on and the line hooked up, rev the engine some and you should see the timing advance...