Comp Solid Roller Cam - DEAD
Turns out that isn't going to happen. Upon disassembly I found out my Demon (#@!@) is again leaking fuel, and for some reason the #2 port is full of carbon and fuel deposits, the others are kind of clean with fuel deposits on the valves...
Ok so I pulled all the rocker arms and they all looked fine, pushrods checked out fine as well. I pulled the lifters (Comp 818-16) and they all looked GREAT! The wheels were in great shape and the rollers felt as smooth as butta'

I guess the fun stops there, I was checking out the cam lobes through the lifter bores and the #6 exhaust lifter wasn't looking the part...
All the other lobes looked good, but #6 looks like someone dug a ditch in the rollers path ~.030-.060" deep.
That roller lifter is in perfect shape, so I am assuming the cam is bad.
I am going to call Comp tomorrow and ask them what they will do about it (read: nothing?). I don't see how this could be anything other than the cam material. This is a Comp XR-280R with a tempered cast steel core, commonly known as their street roller cam.
I see Crane Billet in my future.
Looks like racing season may be over, I wanted to refresh the motor this fall so it looks like I am getting an early start. :'(
Who knows, I may go ballistic and have it done by the weekend..
Stay Tuned.
EDIT UPDATE: Here is a picture of the TWO bad lobes, and there are more pictures below.

Last edited by VETDRMS; Aug 23, 2005 at 11:36 PM.





You can have Comp grind same cam on a billet core if you like...make sure you get cast iron dist gear.
Or as you said....call up Crane. I think they have some of the best billet cores out there and I've always had good luck with their cams. They don't always look as hairy on paper...but they deliver the numbers. You gotta pay close attention to "where" each of them is rating stuff from...especially on solids.
I've been using Engle for the last 5-6 years and have nothing but good to say about their quality and customer service. Definitely tops. You can get Mark Engle on the phone and he will spend time to help you out. Plus they buy their cores from Crane!
Lunati is also another good one....call up and ask for Harold...it will be a good long chat about cams and design.
CamMotion is another good smaller company that makes great stuff.
Might check into the Isky Red Zone lifters to last longer or Crowers with HIPPO option. The new Comps have pressurized oiling, but not sure they are advanced as the other two...but they are half the price!
Good luck!!
JIM
I am running the Comp Polymer Gear so I will just go with an all billet core.
The lifters all all in perfect shape, including the one that was on the bad lobe. I am surprised the roller has no sign of wear on it.
I would like to keep my valve springs, so I will need to go with a profile that will work with the lower pressure.
Wayne (Motorhead) is running this same cam, so maybe he should have a peak at his every now an then.

I am just very glad I caught it before it did any real damage.





I've resigned myself to rebuilding/replacing them every year or so just to be safe. it's no fun when they die.
I now have two sets and I just keep one set in rotation.
JIM


Now, you need to get your butt in gear and get that thing back to health for the intake comparo
Message from another board:
I have worked closely with a very good cam manufacturer and I can tell you there are many cams in use and on shelf ready for use that are defective. There are two core suppliers in the country that are bringing in cores from overseas that are a perfect copy of what we produce here and they are causing trouble all over the country. I have had personally engines from three different states with three different cam manufacturers and no one is willing to admit it like always . There are approximately 8500 cores that were brought in.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The #2 cylinder looking the way it does has me a bit concerned, but I think that hunk of #@(! demon is back to it's old games...
Garys 68: That is not encouraging....Was this cast cores or billet as well?
Thanks!
Some more bad news is it looks like the #2 intake valve is bent as the intake runner is full of carbon, it is the only one and the carbon runs all the way up into the manifold.
I will have the motor out tonight, so the cam and that head will be off and to the machinist in the morning.

I ordered the cam with 2 day shipping so it may be here friday.
I am going to replace the #6 exhaust lifter and button it back up and go racing.


Some more bad news is it looks like the #2 intake valve is bent as the intake runner is full of carbon, it is the only one and the carbon runs all the way up into the manifold.
I will have the motor out tonight, so the cam and that head will be off and to the machinist in the morning.

I ordered the cam with 2 day shipping so it may be here friday.
I am going to replace the #6 exhaust lifter and button it back up and go racing.







I am running the Comp Polymer Gear so I will just go with an all billet core.
I am just very glad I caught it before it did any real damage.

This is my bad roller - bearings went out and beat up the billet cam also. Crane sold me new better lifters at cost along with another custom billet cam of my choice. I went with Crane Pro rollers hoping to never have bearing failure again.

The motor and cam will be out here in a few hours, if not later tonight.
The polymer gears are incredible, can't say enough good things about it. I will be using it with the new cam.
If Comp grinds the cam ASAP I might have it by Friday, may go racing Saturday/Sunday.

The thing I find the most interesting is the roller that was on the bad lobe is in perfect shape, you couldn't tell at all from looking at it. The roller has no play in it and it feels like it's brand new.











The motor and cam will be out here in a few hours, if not later tonight.
The polymer gears are incredible, can't say enough good things about it. I will be using it with the new cam.
If Comp grinds the cam ASAP I might have it by Friday, may go racing Saturday/Sunday.

The thing I find the most interesting is the roller that was on the bad lobe is in perfect shape, you couldn't tell at all from looking at it. The roller has no play in it and it feels like it's brand new.

But this guy at comp cams told me that after they grind the blank that they do a hardening process. That could mean something as simple as using a torch or other means to heat up the cam to about orange glow and then quench it in water. Then you achive some amount of hardnes and they polish it up. When I ordered a custom cam from Comp cams they told me that the reason that it took so long was because all three of them that they had ground failed the hardness test for solid roller extreeme series cams. Well that's when I got on the guys butt about I had ordered a billet custom.
no hardening requiredSo anyway I don't trust Comp cams. To many flat cams. It doesn't matter to me if they sent me new everything. The manhours - gaskets - the worry if you put it together right! No amount of additional money would make up for the lost time that you will never get back.
You must be younger than me my days of thrashing till the wee hours to make a race are over!





I pulled my intake to inspect the rollers at the end of last year amd everything looked fine, never thought to look in the lifter bores at the cam lobes though, I thought if the lifters were OK then the cam must be OK I have nearly 10,000 miles on XR280R setup now
Now if your talking forged!
Forging might not need to be hardened but everything else does.
Even a forging uses a billet. They stick a billet into the machine

Wayne, the problem with this is you won't notice a thing concerning lash as the damage is only on the opening ramp of the lobe, my lash checked out fine as the base circle is undamaged.
I don't want to make you lose any sleep, but I sure am glad I checked. This is with ~6000 miles.Techno: I did not know that, I ASSumed a billet core meant it came from a forging, mostly because that's what they do with cranks.
Thanks for the heads up.









