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Wow that is ugly. Did Comp ask to have the cam returned or photos of the cam wear? It seems they would/ should be interested in knowing why it failed to correct this issue with other cams. I agree that it seems the hardness may be at question with two adjourning lobes afflicted from excessive wear.
You can just see the difference in the pictures of my cam made out of quality steel and copper coated compared to your Comp Cam crude casting.
24 years old - Just see how much less time you spend thrashing on cars or anything 16 years from now. Things like well lit, warm, and carpet to cover garage floor to work in are very important. don't forget - lots of air tools
I just need to build a seperate garage with a car lift!
i would run a rev kit to make sure the roller stays in contact with the cam at all times because lifter float could cause this problem. find a good machine shop that has a hardness tester and check the hardness of all the lobes to see if the grooved one are softer than others and if not what i stated about could be your problem. i never ran a roller cam without a rev kit and it is also a safety device if some thing breaks in the valve train the lifter will not come out of the lifter bore and turn sideways and these goes your block
I emailed the tech I was speaking with a picture of the cam and he is going to print it out and take it over to the warranty guy and give me a call back concerning what they can do about it, and if they know what caused it. It looks like they care, and having a picture to send them instead of trying to explain it over the phone is a LOT easier.
I took out my rev kit at the first cam change. The reason was I didn't need the additional 25# or so that a rev kit adds to the total spring pressure. I was already running 190 lbs seat pressure and only spinning my 383 to 7500 rpm.
The idea is: they consist of a bar and springs that mount under the overhang of your heads intake ports. If you have a failure of your pushrod or rocker arm this additional little 25 pound spring keeps the roller lifter riding on the cam lobe. It also keeps everything going when without them you would be at an rpm where you would be in valve float
If i was going to do over 7500 rpm ant used valve lifts of over .700 inches I'd have one. These lower rpm and less than .650 lift solid roller motors just don't have many problems. Just buy good springs/rockers/heavy wall push rods
Personnally I don't trust the people working at Comp Cams because of all the grief they have cost me in the past. They lied to me on what they really could deliver. When all i ask was: I would like a custom extreeme profile sleaved small base circle cam with the following lobe profile numbers ground on 112 lsa without any 4 degrees of ground in advance.
7 weeks later and billed three times I get a large base circle non sleaved cams with a note that they gave me the Poly gear for the non sleaved gear for only $80 more.
Then on another project they sent a 1.030 base circle cam that hit every rod In a complete short block rotating kit
Their cams and people tend to suck. But their other products are number one. I have comp cams big buck pushrods, steel rockers, and springs