76 Won't Start
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
76 Won't Start
My '76 no longer starts. It has a brand new battery which is fully charged and remains plugged into a float charger. Both have been in place since May 2005 and the car had been able to start until the other day. The only thing working on the car is the Clock. No other electrical component operates, the engine won't crack, the solenoid/starter won't turn. I would think a problem with the ignition coil but the fact that power windows, lights and radio won't work leads me to believe something else. Any help?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 83
From: Everyone needs something to believe in, I believe I'll have another beer. Wisconsin
I would check the connection's to the starter & also the negitive
to the frame. maby someone has some more sugestions.
to the frame. maby someone has some more sugestions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by steelblue shark
the negitive
to the frame. :
to the frame. :
I've had a lot of trouble with mine and its in a very hard to get to spot. I bought another cable and bolted it from the frame to one of the accessory bolts on the head to give a redundant connection.
Last edited by turtlevette; Aug 28, 2005 at 12:47 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Just a thought...
Turn everything off that you possibily can, make sure all lights are off, I'd look at it at night to make sure there isn't a light on someplace (under hood, glove box, etc.)..take the positive terminal off the battery....charge the battery, and check it with a meter after charge for correct voltage level. With everything off, touch the terminal to the battery post....if you get a welding type arc across the terminal/post, you've got a dead short someplace...the clock should not cause a huge arc..or being you have the meter, check the amperage draw between the terminal and post..it should be hardly a trickle with just the clock.
Finding a dead short...one would think you'd have a smoker unless it's a very large cable with the short...possibly in the starter...something should be hot for sure...if it is just a trickle, or no draw at all...I'd lean towards the fusable link theory.
Just a thought...
Turn everything off that you possibily can, make sure all lights are off, I'd look at it at night to make sure there isn't a light on someplace (under hood, glove box, etc.)..take the positive terminal off the battery....charge the battery, and check it with a meter after charge for correct voltage level. With everything off, touch the terminal to the battery post....if you get a welding type arc across the terminal/post, you've got a dead short someplace...the clock should not cause a huge arc..or being you have the meter, check the amperage draw between the terminal and post..it should be hardly a trickle with just the clock.
Finding a dead short...one would think you'd have a smoker unless it's a very large cable with the short...possibly in the starter...something should be hot for sure...if it is just a trickle, or no draw at all...I'd lean towards the fusable link theory.
Just a thought...
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,065
Likes: 2
From: Smalltownville Michigan
Cruise-In 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
sounds like a corroded connection somewhere.. or the battery may be toasted. have you checked the voltage at the battery with a multi meter?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 4
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
If your batter has "juice" and nothing else will work, what about the switch in the steering column. If it is shot or came disconnected - don't know how that would happen though - you would'n't be able to get radio, lights windows etc to work, and not cranking either.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: franklin park nj
76 won't start
I never drive at night and had the same problem. It turn out that the rear view mirror light was constantly when the car was in the lighted garage all day and night. It went un noticed I turned it off and charged the battery over night and it fires right up now.
Worth a try.
Bill
Worth a try.
Bill
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21
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Thanks all who have responded. I have to correct my original diagnosis. My interior lights, brake lights (my map light is off, but works when switched on) and ignition buzzer also all work, though when I turn the key, the interior and brake lights dim out almost completely. My multimeter reads 10.23 volts on my 3 month old battery and I can't even jump start the car. I am thinking that might be enough of an undervolt to cause my problem.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 4
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
Originally Posted by wmrvette1976
Thanks all who have responded. I have to correct my original diagnosis. My interior lights, brake lights (my map light is off, but works when switched on) and ignition buzzer also all work, though when I turn the key, the interior and brake lights dim out almost completely. My multimeter reads 10.23 volts on my 3 month old battery and I can't even jump start the car. I am thinking that might be enough of an undervolt to cause my problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Does the battery voltage reading change when you remove the positive battery terminal??? I mean, is the voltage higher when terminal is disconnected, like closer to 12 vdc? and what is the battery voltage reading when you turn the key...does it disappear almost completely???...if it is, you definately have a dead short...and the short is sucking out all the juice...not that it DOESN'T happen, but man, a 3 month old battery ought to be in pretty good shape....and it won't even start with a jump..
I have to agree with some of the others..I'd start looking at that starter. And 10.23 vdc, I'd say that's way too low..but the motor should at least grunt a little, or the starter should click....I don't think you're getting any juice to the starter, or the cable is shorting out before it gets to the starter...dimming lights?? that juice is going someplace.
good luck!!
I have to agree with some of the others..I'd start looking at that starter. And 10.23 vdc, I'd say that's way too low..but the motor should at least grunt a little, or the starter should click....I don't think you're getting any juice to the starter, or the cable is shorting out before it gets to the starter...dimming lights?? that juice is going someplace.
good luck!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by wmrvette1976
Thanks all who have responded. I have to correct my original diagnosis. My interior lights, brake lights (my map light is off, but works when switched on) and ignition buzzer also all work, though when I turn the key, the interior and brake lights dim out almost completely. My multimeter reads 10.23 volts on my 3 month old battery and I can't even jump start the car. I am thinking that might be enough of an undervolt to cause my problem.
If your no-load battery voltage is 12 and drops too low to turn over the starter when you turn the key, there are two possibilities...
The starter circuit is loading the battery down due to a short, or, the battery has an internal short which shows up when a heavy load is placed on it.
Those would be my first two "brain surgery over the phone" guesses.
