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need help with problem on 82 vette

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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #1  
iflyatiger's Avatar
iflyatiger
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Default need help with problem on 82 vette

I did a search of the forum and found a few posts that sound similar but none specificly for an 1982.

-stock 1982 crossfire

Last year failed NY state emissions with high hydrocarbon and high CO

Replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, airfilter. All ac delco stuff

Tried to pass this year still no good.

Seems to have a miss at idle but strange the car runs good on acceleration and cruise.

Did further testing.
Timing o.k.
Low but steady vacum.
Used a snap on tester to short the cylinders one by one. Both # 6 and #8 show no change on the meter when you short that cylinder. Or if you pull plug wire no change.
I think I have spark to those cylinders.

Changed both plugs again
replaced egr valve.

No change

I hope I have provided a clear description..

Thanks in advance and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated !

Jon
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:31 PM
  #2  
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A vacuum leak will create those symptoms. Look for a leak in the headlight vacuum system or at the intake manifold plenum gasket adjacent to the EGR valve. The gasket will eventually burn thru there. G/L
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 07:59 AM
  #3  
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You need some advice from Twin Turbo. He is the crossfire expert.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 09:20 AM
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Did you replace the O2 sensor? If so retard the timing and it will reduce the CO greatly.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #5  
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iflyatiger
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Thanks Guys..

A friend borrowed a smoke machine so we will continue to look for that vacum leak. Will look at the plenum gasket. Thanks.

Didnt change the o2 sensor yet but plan to do it before retest.
Can the o2 sensor cause the miss ?


Thanks again for alll the help so far.

Jon
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 10:37 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by ddbjr
Did you replace the O2 sensor? If so retard the timing and it will reduce the CO greatly.
I don't think you can retard the timing in an '82...computer controlled.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:16 AM
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You can set the timing on an 82. Disconnect the brown wire to the distributor first. There is a procedure in the crossfire forum. Good luck.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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yes, only initial can be set.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:50 AM
  #9  
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A few suggestions.

Run a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through with whatever gas is left in your tank. If it's not fresh, clean gas, then dump in a bottle of drier like Heet to get any water out, and then use the best fresh gas you can get with some injector cleaner. Do what you can to clean the injectors from the outside, too.

Chase down that vac leak. One simple thing to check is the intake manifold bolts. Be sure to torque them down in the proper sequence, whatever that is for the crossfire.

Are you getting a "check engine" light at all? If so, can you get the codes out of the computer? I would expect an '82 that is failing the emissions test to be setting a trouble code. That code could certainly point you in the right direction.

As noted above, retarding the timing will reduce emissions. Unplug the wiring harness connector that links the distributor to the ECM (on my '81, it's the 4-wire weather-pak connector near the back of the distributor). Your correct initial timing, unplugged, is around 6*BTDC. Set it back to zero or thereabouts. It will run bad, and have no torque at all off idle. It will also run hotter, which helps.

Make sure your engine is hot for the test. Block some of the radiator off if you have to, to get the temps up.

Do the test on a cool morning when the air is as dense as possible. Humidity helps, too.

Still got the stock cat? And the air pump? Not sure how the airpump is setup on a '82, but if it's like my '81, there's a diverter valve that's controlled by the ECM. The valve lets air go to the cat under most conditions, but shuts off the air at WOT so the cat won't burn up. There are also check valves between the air pump plumbing and the exhaust, to keep hot gases from back-flowing into the air pump. You need to make sure the diverter valve and check valves are working, so the cat is getting all the air it needs to work.

Before the test, get the car out on the road and do what you can to burn the soot out of the cat.

Good luck!
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Have you replaced the geothermicisopod coupeling
How old is the fuel in that car Jon? I know that you dont drive it to often.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:35 PM
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[QUOTE=C5Coup]Have you replaced the geothermicisopod coupeling


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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 12:09 AM
  #12  
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Have you tried the RXP Gas Kicker? Sounds crazy but it actully worked on an old Astro Van of mine and reduced HC and CO by 50%. At ~ $5 it's worth try.
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 12:32 AM
  #13  
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Jon,
Here is what I would do and why. I would buy a high flow catyltic convertor. The new one will not come with the fitting to connect to the air tube. I would cut it off the old convertor and have it welded to the new one. This will keep it original looking if that is what you want. I live in California and also failed smog twice. This is after a complete engine rebuild. After I changed the convertor it passed with flying colors. A new cat will cost about 120.00 dollars. Get the exhaust to the normal operating temperature, this will help to loosen the bolts and fittings.
Let us know how you do.
Good Luck
Steve
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 03:38 AM
  #14  
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How many miles are on your 82??

Showing no change in cylinders 6 & 8 might be worn down cam lobes, it's a common problem with the higher mileage motors...
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:05 AM
  #15  
iflyatiger's Avatar
iflyatiger
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Yes no change in 6 or 8 with removal of spark..

The car has 80k miles..

The gas is fresh. Since last year I have run at least 2 tanks with techron cleaner in each.

Thanks for the info.. Keep it coming.

Jon


Originally Posted by Desertdawg
How many miles are on your 82??

Showing no change in cylinders 6 & 8 might be worn down cam lobes, it's a common problem with the higher mileage motors...
Reply
Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:08 AM
  #16  
iflyatiger's Avatar
iflyatiger
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Haven't done this yet. A couple of friends of mine Jim and Joel who both have vettes have changed them before so I will have to ask them

Thanks for the help


Originally Posted by C5Coup
Have you replaced the geothermicisopod coupeling
How old is the fuel in that car Jon? I know that you dont drive it to often.
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:10 AM
  #17  
iflyatiger's Avatar
iflyatiger
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Default

Thanks..

First I would like to get rid of the engine miss and see if that helps then I will look into the Cat like you suggest.

Thanks again..

Jon

Originally Posted by Steve COSD
Jon,
Here is what I would do and why. I would buy a high flow catyltic convertor. The new one will not come with the fitting to connect to the air tube. I would cut it off the old convertor and have it welded to the new one. This will keep it original looking if that is what you want. I live in California and also failed smog twice. This is after a complete engine rebuild. After I changed the convertor it passed with flying colors. A new cat will cost about 120.00 dollars. Get the exhaust to the normal operating temperature, this will help to loosen the bolts and fittings.
Let us know how you do.
Good Luck
Steve
Reply
Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:14 AM
  #18  
iflyatiger's Avatar
iflyatiger
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Default

Gator81

Thanks for your detailed reply !

I have done a few of these things and will work on the others soon.
Will let you know what I find.
Thanks again..

Jon

Originally Posted by Gator81
A few suggestions.

Run a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through with whatever gas is left in your tank. If it's not fresh, clean gas, then dump in a bottle of drier like Heet to get any water out, and then use the best fresh gas you can get with some injector cleaner. Do what you can to clean the injectors from the outside, too.

Chase down that vac leak. One simple thing to check is the intake manifold bolts. Be sure to torque them down in the proper sequence, whatever that is for the crossfire.

Are you getting a "check engine" light at all? If so, can you get the codes out of the computer? I would expect an '82 that is failing the emissions test to be setting a trouble code. That code could certainly point you in the right direction.

As noted above, retarding the timing will reduce emissions. Unplug the wiring harness connector that links the distributor to the ECM (on my '81, it's the 4-wire weather-pak connector near the back of the distributor). Your correct initial timing, unplugged, is around 6*BTDC.
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