need help with problem on 82 vette
-stock 1982 crossfire
Last year failed NY state emissions with high hydrocarbon and high CO
Replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, airfilter. All ac delco stuff
Tried to pass this year still no good.
Seems to have a miss at idle but strange the car runs good on acceleration and cruise.
Did further testing.
Timing o.k.
Low but steady vacum.
Used a snap on tester to short the cylinders one by one. Both # 6 and #8 show no change on the meter when you short that cylinder. Or if you pull plug wire no change.
I think I have spark to those cylinders.
Changed both plugs again
replaced egr valve.
No change
I hope I have provided a clear description..
Thanks in advance and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated !
Jon
A friend borrowed a smoke machine so we will continue to look for that vacum leak. Will look at the plenum gasket. Thanks.
Didnt change the o2 sensor yet but plan to do it before retest.
Can the o2 sensor cause the miss ?
Thanks again for alll the help so far.
Jon
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Run a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through with whatever gas is left in your tank. If it's not fresh, clean gas, then dump in a bottle of drier like Heet to get any water out, and then use the best fresh gas you can get with some injector cleaner. Do what you can to clean the injectors from the outside, too.
Chase down that vac leak. One simple thing to check is the intake manifold bolts. Be sure to torque them down in the proper sequence, whatever that is for the crossfire.
Are you getting a "check engine" light at all? If so, can you get the codes out of the computer? I would expect an '82 that is failing the emissions test to be setting a trouble code. That code could certainly point you in the right direction.
As noted above, retarding the timing will reduce emissions. Unplug the wiring harness connector that links the distributor to the ECM (on my '81, it's the 4-wire weather-pak connector near the back of the distributor). Your correct initial timing, unplugged, is around 6*BTDC. Set it back to zero or thereabouts. It will run bad, and have no torque at all off idle. It will also run hotter, which helps.
Make sure your engine is hot for the test. Block some of the radiator off if you have to, to get the temps up.
Do the test on a cool morning when the air is as dense as possible. Humidity helps, too.
Still got the stock cat? And the air pump? Not sure how the airpump is setup on a '82, but if it's like my '81, there's a diverter valve that's controlled by the ECM. The valve lets air go to the cat under most conditions, but shuts off the air at WOT so the cat won't burn up. There are also check valves between the air pump plumbing and the exhaust, to keep hot gases from back-flowing into the air pump. You need to make sure the diverter valve and check valves are working, so the cat is getting all the air it needs to work.
Before the test, get the car out on the road and do what you can to burn the soot out of the cat.
Good luck!
Here is what I would do and why. I would buy a high flow catyltic convertor. The new one will not come with the fitting to connect to the air tube. I would cut it off the old convertor and have it welded to the new one. This will keep it original looking if that is what you want. I live in California and also failed smog twice. This is after a complete engine rebuild. After I changed the convertor it passed with flying colors. A new cat will cost about 120.00 dollars. Get the exhaust to the normal operating temperature, this will help to loosen the bolts and fittings.
Let us know how you do.
Good Luck
Steve


Showing no change in cylinders 6 & 8 might be worn down cam lobes, it's a common problem with the higher mileage motors...
The car has 80k miles..
The gas is fresh. Since last year I have run at least 2 tanks with techron cleaner in each.
Thanks for the info.. Keep it coming.
Jon
Showing no change in cylinders 6 & 8 might be worn down cam lobes, it's a common problem with the higher mileage motors...
Thanks for the help

How old is the fuel in that car Jon? I know that you dont drive it to often.
First I would like to get rid of the engine miss and see if that helps then I will look into the Cat like you suggest.
Thanks again..
Jon
Here is what I would do and why. I would buy a high flow catyltic convertor. The new one will not come with the fitting to connect to the air tube. I would cut it off the old convertor and have it welded to the new one. This will keep it original looking if that is what you want. I live in California and also failed smog twice. This is after a complete engine rebuild. After I changed the convertor it passed with flying colors. A new cat will cost about 120.00 dollars. Get the exhaust to the normal operating temperature, this will help to loosen the bolts and fittings.
Let us know how you do.
Good Luck
Steve
Thanks for your detailed reply !
I have done a few of these things and will work on the others soon.
Will let you know what I find.
Thanks again..
Jon
Run a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through with whatever gas is left in your tank. If it's not fresh, clean gas, then dump in a bottle of drier like Heet to get any water out, and then use the best fresh gas you can get with some injector cleaner. Do what you can to clean the injectors from the outside, too.
Chase down that vac leak. One simple thing to check is the intake manifold bolts. Be sure to torque them down in the proper sequence, whatever that is for the crossfire.
Are you getting a "check engine" light at all? If so, can you get the codes out of the computer? I would expect an '82 that is failing the emissions test to be setting a trouble code. That code could certainly point you in the right direction.
As noted above, retarding the timing will reduce emissions. Unplug the wiring harness connector that links the distributor to the ECM (on my '81, it's the 4-wire weather-pak connector near the back of the distributor). Your correct initial timing, unplugged, is around 6*BTDC.














