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Heres another one for you guys. I look at my car from the back and the tires bow out slightly. I want to suck them up so they are vertical. It is just a matter of adjusting the arms, or do I have to more, springs, ect. If it is an arm adjustment, anybody have any tips for busting those bolts loose. They look like they havent been touched since 71'.
The easiest & quickest way is to pull the nut of the rod that goes thru the end of your spring & shim it with a 1/2" thickness washer. That will in effect put the same pressure to your suspension that your car originally came with. The other method of course would be to replace the spring with a new one.
yes just adjust the arms. specs call for zero camber on the rear. that bolt has an offset cam built into it, just loosen the nut on the front side and turn the bolt until the wheel is level. roll the car and re check it. it would be easier if you had acess to an alignment rack.
I have to disagree. This is part of the alignment and unless you have the equipment and the knowledge you shouldn't be setting stuff by eye. You should be getting a 4 wheel alignment.
More information is needed. How long have you owned the car? How long has it been like this? Do you have any idea if work was previously done?
Setting rear camber is not that difficult and can be done with a level. The first thing is to try and find out why it's not in spec. I believe a weak spring would give neg camber not pos camber. Your best bet is figure out what is wrong before throwing new parts on it and wasting money. For example; putting on a new spring when the old one is OK.
Second76 has great advice about checking the rear differential. My rear wheel alignment issue was caused by a half shaft snap ring coming off. This caused the tire rear tire to act like yours. Also, I found the trailing arm bushings to be worn.
If you have high mileage, worn differential side yokes can affect rear camber.
Just purchased adjustable struts, and my understanding is I should be able to adjust the camber (rear out at bottom). Can you explain in more detail how the yoke effects camber.
If the differential yokes are worn or the clips that hold them in the diff., the half shafts will be allowed to move out toward the tires causing them to lean out more. This also causes more stress on the bushings on the trailing arms and strut rods; not to mention stress on the wheel bearings. If your are going to approach this systematically, I would pull the trailing arms. If it has been a long time since the bearings have been replaced I would have them rebuilt by someone like Van Steel or Baers. I would pull the diff along with the crossmember, drain the fluid, replace the seals and check the yokes. Of course, replace the fluid and additive at this time. Then replace the bushings in the struts and front diff. Check the gears and the posi assy. while everything is exposed. When you get it back together, have it aligned and you will have a rear suspension that is tight and true.
More than likely, you at least have strut bushings that are worn. It they are, adjusting the camber bolt to straighten them will correct the camber but won't take the play out of the suspension.
Bernie
I had the same problem when i brought home my 74'. The guy before me put on the adjustable strut rods so all i had to do was loosen the nuts and crank them in for the time being. I think before they had a solid rod in there that had to be bent in order to straigten the tire. If you want to get the adjustable strut rods they run about $100 a pair and are all over the place
Bending them is not the correct way to adjust them; although alignment shops used to do it that way. The camber bolt is just as easy. Just loosen the nut, turn the bolt and tighten it back. To me, just as easy as smart struts to adjust.
Bernie
As per the above posts, adjusting the rear camber is easy using the offset camber bolts(or aftermarket adjustable struts). You can do it at home by putting the car on a level surface and using a level that is cut so that it sits on the outside rim surface and not the tire. Set it to be level or slightly negative(top of tires in a very small amount). Roll the car after making any changes and re-check. BUT...you should find the reason for the problem first. I agree with the above posts that you should check your yoke end-play. If you have a lot you should fix that first. Adjusting the camber without understanding why may be covering up a more serious issue that will only get worse. A weak spring may change camber a little, but IMO not enough to have the amount that you describe.