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Clutch disengagement problem

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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:39 AM
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Default Clutch disengagement problem

I just converted my 75 from auto to manual (M22). I installed an 11" clutch, all new linkage parts, pedal, etc. The problem is, I can't get the clutch to disengage. If I start it in neutral, I can't get it into any gear. I have adjusted all the slack and then some out of the adjustment. Any thoughts?
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:46 AM
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most likely the throwout bearing is stuck on the input shaft cover...could be missalignment that's causing the bearing to stick or the pressure plate is defective. Also the fork may be damaged.

You have to remove the tranny and check everything out. I assume you used am input shaft to align the spines, and as you torqued the pressure plate, you moved the input shaft in and out...if not, that could be the problem....by moving the shaft , you are assuring there is free movement and guaranteeing perfect alignment. You don't want a drag or have difficulty moving the input shaft.

Last edited by GDaina; Sep 8, 2005 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:51 AM
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The linkage moves so how could the T/O bearing be stuck? I used the plastic alignment tool to align the disk and pressure plate during install. The tool moved freely in and out before and after torquing.

What are the odds of having the bellcrank in wrong so that the travel of the lower rod is too short?
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:55 AM
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another possibility wrong clutch fork and/or wrong length bearing...GM has different size bearings and different forks...just a wild guess on this one
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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have you adjusted the shifter arms so that they are perfectly lined up in neutral?
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 08:59 AM
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What is the correct P/N for the fork? And, yes, I adjusted the neutral position of the shifter. It shifts fine with the engine not running.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 09:50 AM
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What is the correct P/N for the fork? And, yes, I adjusted the neutral position of the shifter. It shifts fine with the engine not running.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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I have seen many clutch discs stick to the pressureplate/flywheel if left sitting for any lengh of time. It usually happens if the humidity is high. Rust maybe. Try starting it, use the engine torque to break it loose (clutch depressed fully)...be careful, the vehicle will want to move...
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:17 AM
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It could be the wrong TO bearing, too short a pivot stud, incorrect linkage geometry, or slop in linkage.

This is really a two-person job...one pushing in on the clutch, the other observing the movements. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's going to be in either the bearing or the pivot stud.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 11:01 AM
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I'll try to see if it is stuck.

The parts are all new (pedal (refurbished actually), bushings, push rods, bellcrank, fork, pivot ball, etc.). Linkage is a new Hurst set-up.

If there is a problem with the parts being wrong, my guess would be Fork or pivot ball (or possibly throwout bearing but that is new and ordered to the car from Zip along with the pressure plate) When I bought the bell housing, I was told that one size fits all (small block at least). I initially got the wrong fork (didn't have the verticle hole for the pin) but I replaced that before putting in the tranny.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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Does anyone know the position of the engine end of the bellcrank in the engaged condition? Is the lever vertical, or is the bottom end tilted towards the front of the car? If so, how much, an inch, or more?
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 11:01 AM
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Default Unsolved clutch problem

Hi everyone.

I replaced the throwout bearing with the correct one (same as old except for a small difference in axial length). I extended the fork pivot ball about 0.025 inches and went through all the parts. Everything seems correct and positioned properly. The clutch still will not disengage!

Are there more than one fork with the hole in the outer end for the pin (I know about the early one)? Is there one that has less 'offset' than the correct one?

If I attached the bracket for the cross shaft in the wrong spot, could this be a factor? I mounted it so that the cross shaft is perpendicular to the engine looking down from above.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 11:11 AM
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is it possible you have the clutch in backwards
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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How much pedal free-play do you have? Should be about 3/4 to 1 inch. If you have too much, move the nuts on the firewall push-rod towards the front.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 11:37 AM
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Can of worms..could be the retractors on pressure plate...not to mention other internal possibilities already mentioned..
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 11:37 AM
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I hadn't considered that the clutch disk might be in backwards. Will it fit backwards? It is installed so that the side with the springs is facing the pressure plate.

I have varied the pedal free travel from zero to 1 1/4 inches. Doesn't seem to make a difference on disengagement.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by langg
I hadn't considered that the clutch disk might be in backwards. Will it fit backwards? It is installed so that the side with the springs is facing the pressure plate.

I have varied the pedal free travel from zero to 1 1/4 inches. Doesn't seem to make a difference on disengagement.
It will go in backwards. The clutch face is almost always labeled "this side toward" pressure plate on the central hub somewhere.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by langg
I hadn't considered that the clutch disk might be in backwards. Will it fit backwards? It is installed so that the side with the springs is facing the pressure plate.

I have varied the pedal free travel from zero to 1 1/4 inches. Doesn't seem to make a difference on disengagement.
Springs toward pressure-plate is correct.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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How much free play do you have at the pedal?
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 03:10 PM
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I have varied the pedal free travel from zero to 1 1/4 inches. Doesn't seem to make a difference on disengagement.
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