I'm in the middle of restoring a 79 and have gotten to the point of rebuilding the rear suspension and the drivers side trailing arm looks pretty bad with a large rusted break in one of the welds. The other one is probably no better. My question to all of you suspension freaks out there is do I buy a complete assembly with the rotor on it or try to rebuild what I got? I know that there are a couple of speacial tools I would need for this job but I think I'm in for trouble here. I'm looking to make this car strong enough for some trips to the strip but I don't need exotic equip. The engine I'm putting in it is a 383 stroker with close to 500 hp, 3500 stall, rebuilt HD 350 turbo with red clutches, and 4:11 gears. I also want to upgrade all of the driveshaft/ halfshafts and oversized u-joints, flanges, yokes and an adjustable composite rear spring. I will be running stock tires as I am not looking to break any records. I am also looking into Dragvettes adjustable camber rod kit that lowers the ride height and centers up the camber rods to the halfshafts for more a better tire contact patch. This will take place over the next year or so.The car should be somewhere in the high 11s. The cheapest I saw the T/A assemblies for is around $1000 ea. complete. Are the stock units garbage for what I'm doing or what. Also, what other suggestions do you have for this budget-minded vette. Thanx in advance for your time!!

 

Call Bair's Corvette. They did up my trailing arm assemblies (new arms). I bought my rotors somewhere else but sent them in with my old arms. Their work is top notch with the rotors riveted on and checked for runout.
With that much hp, you might consider offset trailing arms which will let you stuff wider tires under the fenders.

I wouldn't think twice about going to them again.

Call them for a quote.

 

I bought new trailing arms for my 73. What I did was took the old ones out and went down to the machine shop. They pressed out what I needed and all the new parts they assembled for me. The specialty tools were to expensive for a one time use and well if you dont have everything right it can end up being a mess. I think the machine shop charged me like 150 to do this and after talking to him about how hard it was to press out my spindles I was happy I didnt do it myself.

 

You might want to consider some offset trailing arms, they let you stick some wider rubber back there. Call Van Steel or Baers; both have excellent reputations and can advise you on using your rotors etc. Good luck with your rebuild!
Bernie

 

Mine on the '71 were rusted out bad- I made a call to Contempory
Corvette . Bought a pair of used trailing arms complete, guarenteed .
Paid (then) $250.00 each. [800 367-8388]

 

Our offsets allow you to run wider tires and are much stronger than stock t-arms. Our offsets are a 1/4" thick, c-channel, all laser cut and jig welded. Complete offset t-arms will run you $1044.99 for both and I can rebuild what you have or you can do exchange units for $390 more. The $390 is the core charge.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1810


Your right you don't need anything exotic but using stock parts from a 79 won't cut it. You'll have to at least run big block side yokes in the rear end w/HD caps. You can't run oversized u-joints on the 1/2 shafts unless you convert to a 30 spline kit and you are no where near the HP range for that kit. You can however upgrade the joints on the driveshaft to a larger size but in my opinion your wasting your money unless you'll have a lot of track time. You will snap a 1/2 shaft joint before you snap a driveshaft joint. I have cryoed 1/2 shaft and driveshaft joints aswell. I also have carbon fiber 1/2 shafts that will be stronger than what you have and lighter.

I also give forum member free shipping but that will end Sept 30th.

Dan

 

I would just replace the arms with offsets since you're planning on doing some track time. I haven't priced OEM style arms lately, but the cost difference can't be that much. You can re-use most of the old parts (which are very expensive) and just be out the cost of the bare arms and the labor. Well, okay.. you also have to add in the bearings & seals & grease. Offsets are available from a variety of vendors... bare or complete.

I have offsets on my C3 and they work fine.

If you were here in Raleigh, I would do them for you just for fun. LOL

 

I would NOT do them just for fun. There would have to some beer involved at some point....

 

I agree with the others here about the offset arms. The quality of these is so much better than the originals that I wouldn't even think of replacing with the stock units (unless you are doing a stock restoration of course).

 

I supply most of the vendors w/my offsets.

 

Thanks guys for all of your responses, this is a great site to depend on for info. So I guess the better way to go is to get the offset arms. Vansteel, what is the price for a pair of offset arms complete including my old core? Or does my old core just get me mine rebuilt? You can take my rotor, spindle and stuff and put it on the offset?

 

If you send your into get rebuilt it's $1044.99 for both sides. I don't need your old t-arms and I don't need your old rotors. You can keep/throw away your rotors and t-arms. Click on that link I posted above and you'll see everything that comes with it. If you do an exchange unit, add $390 for the core and again I don't need your old t-arms or old rotors.

 

I'm in Hillsborough and was considering rebuilding the rear over the winter including the trailing arms. How much fun are you looking to have?

 

I could squeeze you in... you provide all the parts and do all the cleaning/prep work and I'll mastermind the final assembly. Just as long as you're not afraid to get your hands dirty.


Typical scenario:
I've done them for several local Vette guys, some of which are forum members. You remove the arms do a basic cleaning/degreasing on them before you bring them to me.
I assess the damage, press them apart and give them back to you.
You clean them up and make them as pretty as you desire & buy the bearings & shims etc.

I re-assemble them, setting the proper spindle endplay, and you re-install them on your car.

 

FWIW, I fully trust VanSteel. Top Notch service and products.

 

That would be great. I'll send you a PM when I get closer to being ready, probably over the winter.

As for the dirty hands. I used to own a 59 ****** 4x4 pickup so I'm used to grease.

The generousity of people on this forum never ceases to amaze me! God I love this place.

 

Ain't it a Great Forum!
Bernie

 

would someone explain to me all that is involved with the offset t/a's? i can see were you would gain more clearance in the front but what about the spring? i only have about an inch or so as it is! ive heard of shortining springs, which seems like it would have to be done as well as the trailing arms. vbp even recomends scraping the sway arm?! whats the real deal?

 

You get more room on the inside and then the wheel offset depends on how toy use that offset. A standard T-arms will accept about a 9" wheel with 4.5" backspace (factory is 8" with 4" backspace) though I think you need to move the park brake bracket to get 9" wheels on there. If you put on an offset T-arm you would need to check the where the hub sits in relation your fenderwell to determin width and backspacing. I am sure someone else will tell you the max size they have stuffed in the rear of the vette. The limiting factor becomes the frame as it will rub the tires if they are too large.

You can either cut a steel spring on one end and drill a new hole on the end and in the centre or order a shortened composite spring from Van Steel. In either case you need a shorter spring as the T-arms are closer together then the stock ones were.

The offset T-arms give you more tire width and also have the park brake cable bracket mounted out of the way.

The factory t-arms are pretty much crap in terms of the manufacturing technique and the welds. The offest T-arms are a lot stronger then the stamped/partially welded factory ones.

The stock sway arm would not fit as it is designed for the stock distance T-arms that are XX apart. WIth offset T-arms you will have a wheel/tire infirnging on the sway bars domain. Hence they probably reccommend you remove it so that it does not rub the wheel.

I have the factory ones rebuilt by Van Steel but then I don't have 11" tires and 500 HP either.

That should answer some of what you want to know.

Pete

 

the offset is only in the middle of the T/A where the meat of the tire would be the closest. Personally I don't have a sway bar and I don't intend on getting one because #1 it won't let the susp unload correctly for hard launches and #2 it saves weight (but not much).
How do I drill out the rivets that hold the rotor on? And I noticed there threaded ones on the rear side as well, whats the deal with those, they don't have a hex head on them. All in all, I think I will be getting the entire assembly. It's way less work for me and I still have a lot to do on this car. Thanx again guys, I will update you on the progress. And vansteel, I'll check out those links.