69 Door Alignment tips
First thing to do is run a length of masking tape along the edge of the front fender and front edge of the door to protect the paint. Then
remove the striker bolt from the rear door jamb, close the door if you can or loosen the hinge bolts and move door around so that it can be closed. Adjust the front gap so that it is even with the front fender and hopefully it will also line up with the rear quarter in the process. If not, you may have to split the difference between them to get the gaps to look OK. Have a friend hold the door in position from outside the car while you tighten the bolts that hold the hinges in place from the inside. Open the door VERY carefully to make sure that the door does not rub on the fender. Then you can put the striker back in place and adjust it that so that the latch doesn't rub on the striker and that the door closes and latches properly.
If the door is not flush with the fender, the factory used shims to adjust the hinge position.
It's an iterative process, so be patience.
Good way to adjust the door is to loosen off the bottom bolts, have a friend lift or push slightly on the door then tighten the bolts up. Do the same with the top whilst the bottom is bolted up. There is a little slack in thsoe bushings even when new. This way you walk the door to the alignment slowly without risking it sliding back down.
Use the masking tape on all edges. Thats good advice.
Check the striker position carefully as you can also shim that (washer under it) to put it more centrally in the latch.
You can slot the holes in the door to give more movement for alignment.
If gaps still seem wierd take consolation in the fact that at the factory they used to have a guy on each side with a GRINDER trimming the door edge for a good fit. That is a wierd but true story.
I ended up using an electric obrital sander to fine tune my door gap. Worked out great but scarey to attack the door with power tools.
Good luck. Get a friends help and take your time.
Pete








What he said!
