This seems to be a popular topic here!
I have a new crate 454/440hp in my 71 and its running like crap.
It is studdering under hard acceleration.
I made the mistake of putting the Dist. from the orig 454 back in with the petronix ign in it. It would seem not many people here are fond of this set up based on some of the threads I have seen. Anyway I guess I'm going to go with a new dist. I see on the ecklers site they have 2 HEI conversions pt#27518 for 549.99 and pt#47935 for 399.99 what's the difference? I know the first one is from Performance Dist and I have contacted them direct and was told 649.00?? Will these dist drop right in? I want to keep the tack drive set up as well.
I'm open for other suggestions??
Thanks
Tony

 

You should take a look at the MSD Billet distributors - real nice units and fully adjustable.

 

For that amount of money, go with the MSD Tach Drive system with the MSD6AL box. There is a vacuum advance version of this tach drive distributor, and its performance is outstanding.

Your other option is to rebuild your stock distributor wth a good set of points and a re-curve. This will run very well. You can then upgrade it with the MSD6AL box for added peformance.

 

thanks Lars. From what I have seen on this forum you are the man who knows!
Where is the best place to get the MSD set up?
Thanks
Tony

 

Summit or Jeg's

 

Hi Lars what's your opinion of the Accel dual point? Comes with tach drive & really worked good in my 69

 

I have not had a single problem out my Pertronix II. I probably will now, but I have not to date. I am running a 69, with a 350. 30 over with a big cam, headers, and a 650 double pumper.

 

I rebuilt and recurved my original dist. I have a set of Heavy duty points to trigger my Crane HI6 box with rev limiter. It does not miss a beat to 7000 rpm, which is where the limiter is set. A well set up original dist will perform as well as anything out there.

 

A question for Lars or any of you guys out there.
I see Lars says to get the one with the vacum advance. When I called my local speed shop they said to get the one with the mechanical advance? On the internet sites I see they say for a corvette use the vacum advance. I know if thats what lars recomends it must correct but why do the vettes use the vacumn advance?

 

It allows your engine to run much cooler at idle in town, have a better idle.

IMHO
Any Chevy engine without the vacuum advance is great for running at a constant rev, like racing, but for the street they suck the really big one

 

Go to ebay motors and search "HEI TACH" ... that will return you a list that usually has a couple guys selling exactly same dist as eckler's # 47935 ... identical except for price ... theirs brand new for about $200. Until my low-price supply dried up, I sold a bunch of the same new hei tach drive distributor ... I did not receive a single performance, operational or fitment complaint. I'm sold out ... look on ebay.

-edit- yes they drop right in ... but you will have to power the HEI tach drive with a single, switched full 12 VDC wire.

 

Not just Vettes. Any car driven on the street can benefit from vacuum advance. If you run the car primarily on the track (constantly at WOT), there is no purpose in vacuum advance, so racers run units without. On the street, the vac advance helps you run cooler, provides better fuel economy, and will produce better off-idle and part-throttle throttle response. There is no good reason to use a non-vacuum advance distributor in a street car unless the cam you're running is so big that you are not producing adequate vacuum to warrant the advance unit.

As a note - I have to agree with Gordonm - A well set up points-type distributor with a good set of points, tight bushings, an aggressive advance curve, and a good coil will knock the socks off just about any ignition system out there. If you compliment it with the simple addition of the MSD6AL box, you can't run a better performing system on a street car. This will fire accurately through 7000 rpm in a hi compression engine.

 

So, Lars.... I just bought the 373/425hp crate motor and will need a dist for it. I have the one on the 78 350 if it will work well or should I get another one and add the msd6al too. Maybe I don't really need the 6al for mainly street use. The other features are 200 trans,jethot headers and 3.70 rear and of course street tires.

 

David -
If the engine is going into a '78 with electronic tach, I would not hesitate to use the HEI. The stock HEI is actually a very good system. It will perform well throughout the usable rpm range, and it's very reliable. I recommend the stock points-systems with mild upgrades as noted for the pre-74 cars with mechanical tachs.

Here's what I would to to your HEI:
First, install a NAPA part number VC1838 vacuum advance control unit. This will work well with the cam and setup in your new engine. Then, buy a Mr. Gasket curve kit part number 927 or 928 (available from Summit under part number MRG-927G). Install the gold springs from the kit onto your HEI and throw the rest of the parts away. Once you get the engine running, check the advance curve using an adjustable timing light. Set the total timing to 36 degrees (with vac hose disconnected), and then hook up your vacuum advance to a straight manifold vacuum source. This will get you a really good setup that will run exceptionally well.
Lars

 

Thanks Lars, I'll get this stuf on the way. (and thinks for the use of this thread too)

 

Went with the ZZ383?
Which intake did you choose?

 

Yep, more than I needed but what the heck.
A friend found a bargin on ebay and bought it for me......well, I pay him for it....Holley 750 with GM12366573 intake and fuel pump for $445.
I know I loose some HP but I was afraid of hood clearance. This is supposed to fit.
I wanted the motor with the serpentine setup but Larry at Sallee where I bought the 383 told me the owner advised him it would not fit in the 78 because of front end clearance and upper a-arm interference.
Thanks for asking. I'm really excited. Stuff is starting to show up....bCool rad gets here Monday and 3.70 rear by thursday.
I told tranny builder he could have another week or so and not to rush..
Fun, isn't it.. David

 

Good for you, I know you will enjoy it!. I can tell you right now when everything is installed, driving it will be a totally positive new experience as compared to its old stock form. Just make sure you put a good exhaust system on it.

 

Gettin Hooker comp with jethot coating. Already have true duels.
Do you think the wife will notice? I'm telling her I'm getting a tune-up.

 

well after much thought I think I am going to take Jackson's advice and go with the HEI tach drive distributor. Thanks for the tip! Since I already have dumped about 10k into this car this summer the $225 for the HEI vs the almost $600 for the MSD is looking good. I'm expecting the doors to be bolted shut one of these days when I get home or find a bunch of new furniture in the house Anyway I saw on this thread that Lars recomended below
Here's what I would to to your HEI:
First, install a NAPA part number VC1838 vacuum advance control unit. This will work well with the cam and setup in your new engine. Then, buy a Mr. Gasket curve kit part number 927 or 928 (available from Summit under part number MRG-927G). Install the gold springs from the kit onto your HEI and throw the rest of the parts away. Once you get the engine running, check the advance curve using an adjustable timing light. Set the total timing to 36 degrees (with vac hose disconnected), and then hook up your vacuum advance to a straight manifold vacuum source. This will get you a really good setup that will run exceptionally well.
Lars
should I do this to the dist. when I get it?
here are the specs on the motor i put in.
Horsepower ..................... 440 @ 5250 RPM
Torque .......................... 500 @ 3250 RPM
Max. Recommended RPM ..... 5500 RPM
Compression Ratio ............. 9.6:1
Block ............................ 12550307 Cast Iron - Four bolt mains
Crankshaft ...................... 14096983 Forged Steel
Connecting Rods ............... 10198922 Forged Steel
Pistons .......................... 10215228 Forged Aluminum
Piston Rings .................... 12523921
Camshaft ........................ 24502611 Hydraulic roller Lift: .510" I, .540" E. Duration @ .050: 211o I, 230o E.
Timing Chain ................... 10114177 Single Roller
Cylinder Heads ................. 12363390 Cast aluminumer 110cc combustion chambers
Intake Valves ................... 12366986 2.19"
Exhaust Valves .................. 12366988 1.88"
Valve Springs ................... 12462970
Rocker Arms .................... 12368082 1.7:1
Torsional Damper .............. 10216339 8"
Flexplate ........................ 10185034 14"
Valve Lash ...................... Net lash
Fuel ............................. 92 Octane
Spark Plugs ..................... MR43T Gap .045 #10 Rapid Fire Gap .045
Ignition Timing .................. 4° BTDC
It will be getting a gear swap this wekend 3:08 to 3:70
Since allot of guys really seem to know how to get these things set up I'm wide open for suggestions.
thanks to all
lars
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