Timing question/clarification...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,606
Likes: 4
Timing question/clarification...
Quoting from Lars timing paper in the Tech Tips section:
"Remove your distributor cap and rotor. Remove the 2 centrifugal advance springs. Install the rotor and the cap (without the springs). Disconnect the vacuum advance. Start the engine. It may kick back a little due to the advance coming in immediately without the springs. If you’re using an adjustable timing light, set the light to 36 degrees advanced. Now rev the engine just a little while observing the timing marks with the light. It shouldn’t take much rpm to peg out the advance without the springs installed. With an adjustable light set at 36 degrees, align the stock timing marks with “0” when the timing is “pegged out.” Rev the engine a little to make sure the timing will not advance any further. Shut it down. Pop the cap and rotor and re-install the springs. Put everything back together, but leave the vacuum disconnected. Start it up. For future reference, make a note of the timing setting at idle. This is your new curb idle timing spec. Now give the engine a few quick rev’s past 3,000 rpm and verify that the full timing (36 degrees) is coming in."
My question pertains to the bolded sentence. Does this mean I should turn the distributor (adjust the timing) to align the stock timing marks with "0"? I'm not clear on this...
"Remove your distributor cap and rotor. Remove the 2 centrifugal advance springs. Install the rotor and the cap (without the springs). Disconnect the vacuum advance. Start the engine. It may kick back a little due to the advance coming in immediately without the springs. If you’re using an adjustable timing light, set the light to 36 degrees advanced. Now rev the engine just a little while observing the timing marks with the light. It shouldn’t take much rpm to peg out the advance without the springs installed. With an adjustable light set at 36 degrees, align the stock timing marks with “0” when the timing is “pegged out.” Rev the engine a little to make sure the timing will not advance any further. Shut it down. Pop the cap and rotor and re-install the springs. Put everything back together, but leave the vacuum disconnected. Start it up. For future reference, make a note of the timing setting at idle. This is your new curb idle timing spec. Now give the engine a few quick rev’s past 3,000 rpm and verify that the full timing (36 degrees) is coming in."
My question pertains to the bolded sentence. Does this mean I should turn the distributor (adjust the timing) to align the stock timing marks with "0"? I'm not clear on this...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,025
Likes: 12
From: Pleasant Grove AL
Originally Posted by TonySinclair
Quoting from Lars timing paper in the Tech Tips section:
"Remove your distributor cap and rotor. Remove the 2 centrifugal advance springs. Install the rotor and the cap (without the springs). Disconnect the vacuum advance. Start the engine. It may kick back a little due to the advance coming in immediately without the springs. If you’re using an adjustable timing light, set the light to 36 degrees advanced. Now rev the engine just a little while observing the timing marks with the light. It shouldn’t take much rpm to peg out the advance without the springs installed. With an adjustable light set at 36 degrees, align the stock timing marks with “0” when the timing is “pegged out.” Rev the engine a little to make sure the timing will not advance any further. Shut it down. Pop the cap and rotor and re-install the springs. Put everything back together, but leave the vacuum disconnected. Start it up. For future reference, make a note of the timing setting at idle. This is your new curb idle timing spec. Now give the engine a few quick rev’s past 3,000 rpm and verify that the full timing (36 degrees) is coming in."
My question pertains to the bolded sentence. Does this mean I should turn the distributor (adjust the timing) to align the stock timing marks with "0"? I'm not clear on this...
"Remove your distributor cap and rotor. Remove the 2 centrifugal advance springs. Install the rotor and the cap (without the springs). Disconnect the vacuum advance. Start the engine. It may kick back a little due to the advance coming in immediately without the springs. If you’re using an adjustable timing light, set the light to 36 degrees advanced. Now rev the engine just a little while observing the timing marks with the light. It shouldn’t take much rpm to peg out the advance without the springs installed. With an adjustable light set at 36 degrees, align the stock timing marks with “0” when the timing is “pegged out.” Rev the engine a little to make sure the timing will not advance any further. Shut it down. Pop the cap and rotor and re-install the springs. Put everything back together, but leave the vacuum disconnected. Start it up. For future reference, make a note of the timing setting at idle. This is your new curb idle timing spec. Now give the engine a few quick rev’s past 3,000 rpm and verify that the full timing (36 degrees) is coming in."
My question pertains to the bolded sentence. Does this mean I should turn the distributor (adjust the timing) to align the stock timing marks with "0"? I'm not clear on this...
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,356
Likes: 6,328
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by TonySinclair
Does this mean I should turn the distributor (adjust the timing) to align the stock timing marks with "0"? I'm not clear on this...
