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hi i have a 72 350 this will be my first oil change what brand of oil would you recommend (engine have 2k mls since rebuilt)i just got the car 1k mls ago
hi i have a 72 350 this will be my first oil change what brand of oil would you recommend (engine have 2k mls since rebuilt)i just got the car 1k mls ago
Assuming its a standard rebuild and not a race job ... Any of the popular brands will be just fine. For Jersey, 10W-30 for the cooler months, 10W-40 for the warmer ones. It's hard to beat plain jane Valvoline or Havoline. You don't need fancy oils or filters. There's plenty of nit-picking oil & filter specs. But, for those who do change O&F on-schedule and do Not race ... any popular name brand will be fine for both.
Assuming its a standard rebuild and not a race job ... Any of the popular brands will be just fine. For Jersey, 10W-30 for the cooler months, 10W-40 for the warmer ones. It's hard to beat plain jane Valvoline or Havoline. You don't need fancy oils or filters. There's plenty of nit-picking oil & filter specs. But, for those who do change O&F on-schedule and do Not race ... any popular name brand will be fine for both.
However, oil takes on cult-like status. You'll get 50 different answers from 50 different people.
I like to take the strategy of buying whatever name brand oil is in stock (10W40 for me) and on sale. I usually seem to end up with Pennzoil or Castrol. This approach has service me well for 23 years. (Wow, I'm old).
ANY name brand that meets the current American Petroleum Institute, API, spefications works well. Personal preference and marketing make us believe that one is better than the other. Do your homework at;
Any you will find that virtually all oils, including recycled/re-refinded are almost identical. The biggest difference between oils is the marketing. Don't believe someone who says I use XYZ and got 3 million miles out of my car. A testimonial of one or two cars is a "gee, that's nice" kind of statement. Look for lab analysis and scientific study.
Gary
just to chime in with one of the "ask 50 get 50" different opinions, lol!! i have always favored castrol gtx 20/50 and fram filters. it has seemed to stand me in good stead all these years also. i live in the tropics hgence the choice of 20/50. when i lived up in the frozen tundra (northeastern U.S., lol) i used 10/30 in the winter months and 10/40 in the summer months, but that was a long, long time ago.
BTW i have read many posts that suggest using diesel specific motor oil in older engines because it contains many of the original additives that were present when the engines were new (and were specified for the engines of those eras) and are no longer used in current oils because today's engines have different requirements. assuming it is an accurate statement, it would seem to make sense. i would certainly like to hear some opinions from those here much more qualified than i to provide additional information on the subject.
Consumer Reports did a test on all the major brands of oil a ways back.. The only two manufacturers that kept their viscocity at high-temp were Vavoline and Castrol. Both 40 wts stayed within specs while the others (penzoil, etc..) broke down rapidly. As for filters, refer to this site: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
They did a complete study on the oil filters..
"filters to avoid" Fram, Penzoil, and Quaker State
Consumer Reports did a test on all the major brands of oil a ways back.. The only two manufacturers that kept their viscocity at high-temp were Vavoline and Castrol. Both 40 wts stayed within specs while the others (penzoil, etc..) broke down rapidly.
Hmmm... a comment here: not staying within the viscosity spec and "breaking down" are two different things. An oil can drift slightly out of viscosity spec and still be an excellent oil.
Are these concidered 'mineral' oils? I've seen adds for Royal Purple that say don't break in a motor with their oil, use a mineral oil first then switch. Any coments?