Proportioning valve reset switch?


does not work,, its probably time to take it apart and clean it up,, its probably all seized up.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
does not work,, its probably time to take it apart and clean it up,, its probably all seized up.
All of the Vette brake jobs that I have done where the switch went off center, and the (C2/C3) Vette was 5 years old or older, the switch was completely plugged up with sludge.
Typically, the actual switch has to be removed first because it hangs up the internals.... similar to the fuel pump rod hanging up the camshaft. Be careful of any gaskets/seals. There may be a nylon gasket on the switch part, or it may be NPT. It's been a while, but I think I had to pull the brass inverted flare seat on some of them to allow the internal pieces to come out. To avoid damaging the seat, I tap the center hole with the smallest tap that fits well, and I use a machine screw to pull the seat out. This way it can be re-installed.
The internals vary, so you have to judge what needs TLC bsed on design. Some have o-rings, some do not.
I would have to take a look at the pics I have on file to be sure.... writing this from a burned out musicians brain... so take it with a grain of salt.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I also have an 80 but could not find the pics... I think I migrated them to a ZIP drive to free up disk space.
If you need those, I can try to find them.
My original 68 block was a rectangular block of cast iron. The new repro version is manufactured from a block of steel stock.
I saw an original used 1968 distribution block for sale for $200!
On the ones I have worked on, the switch/pp valve was completely plugged up with sludge. Because of the sludge, when it slipped to one side, it was usually impossible to re-center it without blowing compressed air backwards through the line. I would try the pedal method first. When that failed, compressed air.
For example, if the rear circuit had leaked & was now blocked by the switch, I would blow air backwards through a rear line.... LOW pressure, using a rubber air gun tip. I would loosen the M/C cover and put a large rag on top of the M/C as well. Because the other (front in this example) circuit was still closed, the switch would have a difficult time of going back.... but it worked sometimes. When it didn't, I pulled the switch & disassembled it. This is risky because of parts availability, so I tried to avoid it if possible.
Once it centers, I bleed BOTH a front and a rear at the same time to avoid letting the switch go off center again.
If you're not getting any fluid out of one circuit, either the switch is still blocking, or you have internally collapsed rubber brake hoses.
Duane















