Replacing main fuel lines
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 539
Likes: 3
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Replacing main fuel lines
How hard is it to replace the main fuel lines (supply and return)from the tank to the pump. Mine are pretty rusty. I am dropping the tank for some clean up so now would be a good time to try to replace them. I think I read a thread a while back about using rubber in place of the steel lines? I am more worried about reliability than originality.
Thanks for your help..
Thanks for your help..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,545
Likes: 3
From: 406ci SB, AFR 180 Heads - 490 HP @5,600 RPM 529 lb-ft @ 4,100 RPM
It's not that hard with the proper tools. (tube bender, etc). But do not run a rubber gas line, it will wear through in short order, where it rubs along the frame. Do it right or have it done, use steel. My 0.2
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
I recently removed my original lines. While not the hardest thing I've ever done on the car, it was a pain. The bolts on mine were somewhat hidden between the body and frame and they were pretty stuck. I ended up cutting the lines in several places and removing the pieces.
I re-installed "rubber" lines - with stainless steel woven sleeves. They won't be wearing out anytime soon...
I re-installed "rubber" lines - with stainless steel woven sleeves. They won't be wearing out anytime soon...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 539
Likes: 3
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Originally Posted by Z-man
I recently removed my original lines. While not the hardest thing I've ever done on the car, it was a pain. The bolts on mine were somewhat hidden between the body and frame and they were pretty stuck. I ended up cutting the lines in several places and removing the pieces.
I re-installed "rubber" lines - with stainless steel woven sleeves. They won't be wearing out anytime soon...
I re-installed "rubber" lines - with stainless steel woven sleeves. They won't be wearing out anytime soon...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
THe hardest part is routing the larger line up the frame kickup. Many people cut the line there and use a union above the rear tire. If you are using a carburetor, a standard union is OK. If you are using fuel injection, use steel-line hydraulic unions that are made for pressure.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 0
From: Beacon NY
Originally Posted by 76project
Where did you get the rubber lines with stainless steel sleeves? That sounds like the best of both worlds.
http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs...toct/031f.html
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by Victor
Jegs has them also and so do some local shops. There's a couple around here. The brand I used is Aeroquip. These lines are the same type used in the aircraft industry and many of the lines are rated from 1,500 - 2,000 psi! I managed to squeeze -8AN lines in the stock locations. (The wire in the photo goes to my fuel pump relay.)
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by Techno
What about the rubber rotting? Just because its clothed in SS don't mean the rubbers going to last any longer.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
How much does this stuff cost per foot?
I've only seen Teflon anything as quite high and with SS jacketing, real jacketing and not a woven chinese finger puzzle slipped on waaaaay too high.
I consider fuel injection hose to be expensive and the fuel line for my boat isn't all that cheap. It has to be changed to be dependable.
I've only seen Teflon anything as quite high and with SS jacketing, real jacketing and not a woven chinese finger puzzle slipped on waaaaay too high.
I consider fuel injection hose to be expensive and the fuel line for my boat isn't all that cheap. It has to be changed to be dependable.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
I had heard from a few folks that it could be done pretty easily by removing the body mount bolts on the right side and raising the boy 3"-4" off the frame. Unfortunately when I went to remove my body bolts I found that my #2, 3 and 4 body mounts on both sides were shot. (De-nile ain't just a river in Egypt!) This led to an 18 month frame off and I used stainless lines when we put it back together.
Has anyone else tried this method, of raising one side off the frame to install them?
GUSTO
Has anyone else tried this method, of raising one side off the frame to install them?
GUSTO
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by Techno
How much does this stuff cost per foot?
I've only seen Teflon anything as quite high and with SS jacketing, real jacketing and not a woven chinese finger puzzle slipped on waaaaay too high.
I consider fuel injection hose to be expensive and the fuel line for my boat isn't all that cheap. It has to be changed to be dependable.
I've only seen Teflon anything as quite high and with SS jacketing, real jacketing and not a woven chinese finger puzzle slipped on waaaaay too high.
I consider fuel injection hose to be expensive and the fuel line for my boat isn't all that cheap. It has to be changed to be dependable.
Aeroquip
Last edited by Z-man; Sep 27, 2005 at 05:10 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Marshalltown Iowa
I just installed -10 feed and -8 return all aeroquip ss braided from a local shop.
-10 ss braided was $6.50 /ft
-8 ss braided was $6.00 /ft
That is the cheap part. The expensive part is all the fittings.
-10 ss braided was $6.50 /ft
-8 ss braided was $6.00 /ft
That is the cheap part. The expensive part is all the fittings.