C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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Thanks to SteveG75 my valve seals were done last night @ http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1188004 took 2.5 hours.

Now the next project fix those pesky leaking header gaskets. I have ceramic coated Holley Flow Tech headers with pretty thick flanges but the problem is the cheap paper/ graphite composite gaskets they came with. Plus I have the header alternator bracket which looks bent causing a leak on #1 exhaust. I had those $65 aluminum frame with graphite donut gasket seals on my old 77 Vette and they worked but any slight bend of the gasket caused the graphite gasket to fall off and thus imposible to install. I'm looking for a upper end header gasket set that will stay sealed. Also ordering ARP header bolts with lock bolts and thread lock.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 10:55 PM
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Had great results with Stage 8 bolts. Over 4 years on two different engines and FelPro gaskets, and no leaks.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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Assuming you're referring to the Earl's seals. They work really well for me, after trying the coppers which did not seal at all. I started the end header bolts and dropped the Earl in with no problems.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Yes Earls. I forgot the name. They were a pita due to the side torque on the pipe hangers, too bad I just didn't disconnect the collectors but it was a PITA.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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Thanks for the ego boost.

I have had good luck with the Mr. Gasket Ultraseals. They are graphite coated with a mesh core. Work well with my Hooker sidepipes. I am also just using regular header bolts and have had no problems with loosening. I ended up using the Stage 8's on my old Dynomax headers but the Hookers are sealing fine. I attribute this to the thick flange that prevents warping and lets me get some good torque on the bolts.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveG75
Thanks for the ego boost.
Steve your posts on changing valve seals were invaluable to me before Grayhook and I changed mine. We used the same method you posted about using and it went off with no problems at all.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 01:17 AM
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after trying the coppers which did not seal at all.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 01:38 AM
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I have Stahl Headers and therefore use Stahl Gaskets. No problems. Even with multiple R&R's. I use the Breslin split lock header bolts with no problems so far. Also multiple R&R's. I have also used the Stage 8 type header bolts with no problems.
SO you see it's no problem. LOL.

Here's the web site on the bolts.Breslin
Summit and jegs carry them also.

Last edited by 72 RAY; Sep 22, 2005 at 01:40 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 05:52 AM
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Earls are what I am using and I have the alternator bracket that you are talking about and it has no problems. I do safetywire my bolts together to keep them from loosing.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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Good headers with thick & flat flanges work great with paper gaskets. I've had paper on mine for years and never had a leak. With my old headmans I couldn't keep the gaskets in no matter what.

headers with cheap flanges will all eventually leak.
but the aluminum / graphite will last longer
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 03:10 PM
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i fought header leaks and many many gaskets until i went with Earls aluminum/graphite gaskets and header studs installed the way Gkull recommended.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 03:36 PM
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Another problem is the collector seals. The front end is lowered, 26" as measured front center wheelwells. When I scrape, which I do alot of those collector seals take quite the beating. Was considering going to the FORD style collector seals (the cone slipin sytle with no gaskets required) Would require me to weld in and get the headers re-dipped ceramic.

Last edited by Cali,68,L-79; Sep 22, 2005 at 03:41 PM.
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