Popping rivets?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Belle Mead, N.J., U.S.A.
Popping rivets?
I just acquired a 72 vert and along the front nose area there are small rounds "bumps" raised up. Are these rivets popping out? Why does it happen and how are they repaired? Thanks for your help.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
OK, that front if laminated of several fiberglass mouldings, and the bottom most is aluminum rivited to the steel frame, thing is the dis similar metals cause the aluminum to powder up on top and so that corrosion is aluminum oxide and pimples up the top layer....
solution is to grind out all the rivits from underheath...tons of fun with car basically assembled....you need remove allmost all the front end parts and hood of course to get at it....then that metal brace comes off, now you need to grind/drill very carefully maybe with a hole saw to get those rivits outta there, from under the car.... that will releive the stress on the top sheet/glass.....
now you need clean up the brace to bare/naked metal, get that special bonding glue...epoxy type stuff used in the later sharks...and glue hell out of it....
have fun....it's a bitch of a job, and my '72 has been put off forever now, never has been done....
GENE
solution is to grind out all the rivits from underheath...tons of fun with car basically assembled....you need remove allmost all the front end parts and hood of course to get at it....then that metal brace comes off, now you need to grind/drill very carefully maybe with a hole saw to get those rivits outta there, from under the car.... that will releive the stress on the top sheet/glass.....
now you need clean up the brace to bare/naked metal, get that special bonding glue...epoxy type stuff used in the later sharks...and glue hell out of it....
have fun....it's a bitch of a job, and my '72 has been put off forever now, never has been done....
GENE
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
This is a common problem with early sharks. Your headlight assemblies are bolted to a cross brace. This cross brace is bolted to the outboard frame extensions, and rivited to the f-glass nose. Over time, these rivits rust and cause bumps in the front glass. Only fix is to drill out the rivit heads through the fiberglass and punch them through. You can re-attach the front brace by countersinking the f-glass and riviting again with aluminum, or bonding the brace to the nose from underneith with an adhesive. Whatever attaching process you choose, you'll still have to fill the holes in the glasss and paint.
Eddie
Eddie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I believe the rivets don't go thru the surround. There is a seperate fiberglass plate, the same size as the metal support bar. These 2 parts are riveted togeather. This assembly is then bonded to the surround. I have removed many of these, and if not an N.C.R.S. vette, will use a new aftermarket support bar, bonded without rivets, just like the later C-3's. 
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,986
From: Connecticut, USA
Originally Posted by big_G
I believe the rivets don't go thru the surround. There is a seperate fiberglass plate, the same size as the metal support bar. These 2 parts are riveted togeather. This assembly is then bonded to the surround. I have removed many of these, and if not an N.C.R.S. vette, will use a new aftermarket support bar, bonded without rivets, just like the later C-3's.
The 68-72 headlight support is riveted to a bonding strip, the strip is then glued to the underside of the nose. Drilling into the nose to remove the rivets will give you fits. Ever see where a luggage rack was removed and the holes filled- they come back a lot of the time and look as bad as the rivets did. I've chisled the support out without breaking the top panel, then either use a NOS bonding strip or the after market supports that are bent to eliminate the 1/8" bonding strip thickness. A lot of work and removal of the front parts. I did mine with the engine out.Gary
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by big_G
I believe the rivets don't go thru the surround. There is a seperate fiberglass plate, the same size as the metal support bar. These 2 parts are riveted togeather. This assembly is then bonded to the surround. I have removed many of these, and if not an N.C.R.S. vette, will use a new aftermarket support bar, bonded without rivets, just like the later C-3's.
Thanks for setting me straight big_G & gtr1999.
Eddie
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Belle Mead, N.J., U.S.A.
Thanks for the help and quick response. I think I'll enjoy the car for awhile before tackling the problem. there are a couple of other minor paint issues and when I get ready to paint I'll work on the rivets.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Before you bond on the support, try my method: (I assume you will paint your vette after this repair). Using a fairly hot heat-gun, plasticise (soften) the fiberglass surround at each pop-up. When sufficiently hot, use the blunt end of a large screwdriver to level the bump. Hold pressure for 30 seconds. It does work. If it doesn't move, it's not hot enough. You may get some melting/burning of the paint. Don't try to grind the bumps flush, the remaining 'glass will be too thin. Then bond in the support bar. G/L..
Last edited by big_G; Sep 22, 2005 at 03:29 PM.
