Loud Steering
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27
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Loud Steering
Ok, I've got a 72 with power steering and all the hoses and the ram has been replaced, when I turn the wheel to the right (of course is running) it makes a terrible noise, not so bad when I go to the left but still more noise than it should, belts are tight and in good shape.....is it the pump or the controller?
Greg
Greg
Cruising
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Did you bleed the system after you replaced the parts? The control valve usually won't be the source of noise; the pump usually has air in it and the system just needs bled. Put it on jackstands and start the engine and turn left/right. Check the fluid level and see if the fluid is foaming.
I never had any luck in replacing just the slave cylinder or control valve by themselves...always ended up leaking months later. No matter how much fluid you flush the system with there always seems to be metal particles left in the lines/valves/cylinder to cause the seals to fail.
You also have a bias adjustment nut on the control valve (under the cap) that you can adjust if you notice it pulling one way or the other. I have a complete system from my 71 BB with 12K miles on it on my garage floor you can have for the taking/shipping costs. Good Luck
I never had any luck in replacing just the slave cylinder or control valve by themselves...always ended up leaking months later. No matter how much fluid you flush the system with there always seems to be metal particles left in the lines/valves/cylinder to cause the seals to fail.
You also have a bias adjustment nut on the control valve (under the cap) that you can adjust if you notice it pulling one way or the other. I have a complete system from my 71 BB with 12K miles on it on my garage floor you can have for the taking/shipping costs. Good Luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
Things go a lot faster if you first try to get the air out of the system BEFORE starting the engine. With the front wheel off the ground, fill the pump reservoir to the FULL mark on the capstick. Turn the steering wheel full lock to full lock about a dozen times. Recheck the fluid level and replenish to the COLD mark on the capstick. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock another dozen times. Check and replenish the fluid again to the COLD mark.
Let the car down and start the enginer and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a couple times. Recheck the fluid level and then go for a ride.
The reason you try to eliminate as much of the air as possible BEFORE starting the engine is that if the engine is running, air and oil is whipped to a froth as it passes through the pump. The air/oil foam takes time to separate back out. Foam is actually compressible so it makes lots of noise and you can also feel a lack of power assist as the foamy, milky looking fluid is pumped throughout the system.
JIML82
Let the car down and start the enginer and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a couple times. Recheck the fluid level and then go for a ride.
The reason you try to eliminate as much of the air as possible BEFORE starting the engine is that if the engine is running, air and oil is whipped to a froth as it passes through the pump. The air/oil foam takes time to separate back out. Foam is actually compressible so it makes lots of noise and you can also feel a lack of power assist as the foamy, milky looking fluid is pumped throughout the system.
JIML82
