Need 427 engine advice
OK, I've got the block (.060), steel crank, and rods. Pistons are next and I'm shopping and learning about Big Blocks (too cool!!!!).
I need advice on 427 engine combos for the street. I am particularly interested in piston/head/camshaft combos because I want to make sure my compression ratio and camshaft work well together. I'll be using aluminum heads, headers (etc etc the good stuff!). Car has 3.36 rear gears and a 4-speed. NOT a daily driver, so slightly more radical is OK!!! So, could you please share your combo with me?? Piston part numbers and head part numbers are of particular interest!!! THanks!
Thanks to bernie morris for the offer of pistons, but It looks like they will be too high of a compression ratio for my setup. (12.5 to 1!!!) Thanks Bernie!





When you go to their site it gives the use for each cc head. You might get the 310 cc, but call them and ask if they have a 2.30 intake valve option.
with aluminum heads you want to end uo with just under 11:1 compression. right around 10.7
What kind of a cam do you plan on using?
On a side note, my combo works out to 11.5:1 with factory cast iron 114cc open chamber oval port heads. I did have to custom grind the chambers to clear the domes on teh pistons. I'm running 93 octane with 13deg initial and 32 total advance with minor detonation when bogged down in overdrive. I also have a pretty big overlap cam which reduces the dynamic compression a good deal to allow this combo to work. I also have my quench height set at .039".
Dart heads are nice, I've been looking at thier oval port cast iron heads for sometime but the larger chambers will reduce my compression and I'm not really sure I want to do that. The new Trick Flow (aluminum) oval ports look nice too.
If you need help with the piston calculations or have any other questions feel free to email me at egrelle@et-motorsports.cc
The alternative is square ports and force it in the low-mid range.
The cam to follow this reasoning.
If moneys in the budget forget the intake and get FI. this also allows you to cheat on compression a bit.
I dropped compression by stoning the lathed grooves off the top of the piston, way back when about the only pistons available were 11.25 and higher. This and a measured reduction in the dome dropped compression to 9.25, thats written down but I for some reason remember 9.5. The pistons were polished. I forgot how much was taken off the dome but it wasn't much. Just the removal of the ridges dropped it some.
I CCed the top of the piston so knew what was happening.
I saw an article in "Corvette Fever" yesterday where they built a 427, using iron heads, TRW pistons, and a solid cam. They also used the original intake manifold and exhaust manifolds. They were very happy with the 455 hp they got, like it was "amazing"! I want more than that! Though I think the intake and exhaust were probably restricting the potential a little. I think around 500 hp at the crank would be perfect, with a nice choppy idle for the drive in appeal. That'll do.
Question: Which is the "better" setup?
SpeedPro pistions, 16.8cc dome = 10.1 to 1 with 100 cc Oval port heads
OR
SpeedPro pistions, 34.2cc dome = 10.0 to 1 with 118 cc Rect. port heads
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I'm not able to type it all right now.....but unless you plan on screaming it to 7000-7500 rpm regularly, stick with ovals. You can use aftermarket or GM. The rectangulars ran about the same at the track, but I had to shift at 7500 instead of 6500 to get same results. At under 5000 rpm roll-on tromps..it was weak with rect. heads. I've run a gazzilion flat tappets (all solids) through it (it's still in my garage) so I have an idea of what does what.
The last version used 11.1 closed chamber pistons and angle milled/ported Merlin iron heads. Honest 11.2 compression, but it worked fine on 93 octane. It last had a Comp 288 street roller in it and ran 11.20's@123 mph capped up with 2.5" exhaust using 3.36 gears and a Doug nash 5 speed. Probably had a 10.99 in it...just never got that far. It made 423 RWHP in pure street trim at 5850 rpm and still was making 417 rwhp at 7000 rpm. Absolutley beautiful TQ curve..never cared where you shifted.
It also ran mid-high 11's with flat tappet cams and GM oval ports in a 3600+ lb Camaro. Ran mid 10's in Denver Altitude with a little N20. Probably a high 9 at sea level.
I can help you with cams/heads and intake choices as you get deeper into it. The Edelbrock Air Gap would most likely do very well as a dual plane..better than single planes on a motor this small, but I used to run only single planes on it in the past.
JIM
KB Pistons 25.5cc (4.310 bore)
110 cc oval port aluminum heads
.039 Head gasket - for aluminum heads (4.370 bore)
3.76" stroke steel crank
I used an online compression ratio calculator, and It results in 10.18 to 1 with this setup. Too cool!!!!
I'm now looking at the CompCam CCA-11-318-4. This has 236 intake/exhaust duration, .556" lift, and 110 lobe sep. angle. With a set of roller rockers of course. RPM Air Gap and a 750 CFM Speed Demon, mech. secondaries.
Sound like a winner?





I have 427 ci and a SR cam. But I was out on the Crane Cam shaft site and they give some discriptions about their cams and anything in the 236 class and being a h-flat cam is a radical.





I'm not a hypereutectic piston fan at all for anything you might lean on some. Spend the $$ to get some forged pistons. You'll be happier.
Which heads are you looking at? The Brodix Race rites or Dart ovals would work well. Not too wild about the Edelbrock/GM's either if you're going to spend that much money.
Pay attention to what GKull said....you want to juggle head gaskets and deck height to get .035-.040 max quench distance.
With aluminum heads you can sneak up closer to 10.7-11.0 easily on 93 octane.
I think you can use more cam too. That one is too small to me. You can easily handle .600-.630 lift with no wear issues with a flat tappet cam. With good heads you want all you can get.
The 750 Double Pumper and Air Gap will work fine.
Look for 1-3/4" t0 1-7/8" headers.
427's like to rev...you need to put a cam in there that will like to also. You can easily do that with a streetable solid flat tappet.
JIM
Seriously consider one of Comp Cams Hyd Rollers! they arent cheap but if your spending the cash do it right the first time! The specs dont seem that radical BUT when you consider the lobe shape and how fast a hyd roller opens and closed valves and how long they stay open, it will make a cam with relatively mild looking specs act like a .600 lift cam . . . trust me on this!
But if you do this add an extra 300$ for the comp cams roller lifters too! I never regretted spending the extra cash, the car was extremely fast . . . way more speed than I needed!
I'm not a hypereutectic piston fan at all for anything you might lean on some. Spend the $$ to get some forged pistons. You'll be happier.[QUOTE]
[QUOTE=427Hotrod]With aluminum heads you can sneak up closer to 10.7-11.0 easily on 93 octane..[QUOTE]
427 Hotrod knows his stuff...









