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Damper Bolt Broken Off

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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 09:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by madvette74
I had the same thing happen to me, after I installed the damper. I tried to weld a grade 8 bolt to the broken piece, and that snapped. I GRINDED the section flush where the bolt goes into the crank and left it like that, I didn't want to take the chance of not drilling strait. and having to remove the crank, seeing mines a stroker and balance is a bit more important.. so I quess the only way to do a cam swap will be to remove the crank..
I may end up doing that, too ( leaving it as is), but I have one more thing to try....I have access to "rail bits"- these are drill bits used by the railroad industry to drill through hardened steel rail....they should be strong enough to go through any grade 8 bolt.........successful or not, I will post pics of this awful predicament this weekend.
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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Default Problem Solved......(sort of)


In the pic of the damper, you are facing the broken bolt about an inch down in the center....the threads leading to it have been stripped. The damper is installed completely (I should have seen this before adding that "one more turn" that did me in). Even with a carbide bit it would take hours to drill this piece out. I decided to leave it in and re-tap new threads leading up to it (about 1/2"). I then installed a new shorter crank bolt leading to the old piece. The car is now running again and I hope to NEVER touch this damper again. Any further work, like cam or timing chain replacement,etc., will probably also include a new crank......
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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MmmmmmKay
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 09:05 PM
  #24  
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are you not worried about balance?
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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All balancers need to be honed out for a SEMI slip fit. I learned this the hard way!
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 10:32 PM
  #26  
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I think that the balancer is supposed to be flush with the snout of the crankshaft. The picture above doesn't look flush to me.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 06:23 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
I think that the balancer is supposed to be flush with the snout of the crankshaft. The picture above doesn't look flush to me.
NOPE! The crank is usually recessed about an 1/8" or so. I saw this happen on a friends car a few years ago. To this day he is still running the balancer with no bolt. It may sound crazy, but GM built a few hundred thousand 307s and not one of them had a bolt in the balancer. In fact, the crank never even had a tapped hole for a bolt.

The bolt is just there to make you feel good, it's not going anywhere.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Re and Cheryl
NOPE! The crank is usually recessed about an 1/8" or so. I saw this happen on a friends car a few years ago. To this day he is still running the balancer with no bolt. It may sound crazy, but GM built a few hundred thousand 307s and not one of them had a bolt in the balancer. In fact, the crank never even had a tapped hole for a bolt.

The bolt is just there to make you feel good, it's not going anywhere.
i'd be really with that
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 09:46 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
I think that the balancer is supposed to be flush with the snout of the crankshaft. The picture above doesn't look flush to me.
Trust me ...the balancer IS in completely; I contorted my head underneath (somehow) and looked; when I re-installed the water pump, the pulleys were exactly aligned as with the stock damper. It is not supposed to be flush with the snout.........and, yes, I know of some folks without a crankshaft bolt....the damper will definitely not come off. I only added the bolt to be able to turn the engine with a socket to TDC it if desired.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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I dont think balancer bolts were used on small blocks prior to 65, I believe...l
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