Damper Bolt Broken Off
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,923
Likes: 733
From: Youngstown Ohio
Damper Bolt Broken Off
Actually, it's the damper installation tool adapter end that screws into the crank snout. It's broken off with about 1/2" of threads stuck in the hole 
I was going for the "easy outs", but this must be a hardened piece, as my titanium drill bits cannot drill through it 
It's in there flush with no part to partially grab and work it out......HELP.....any suggestions (other than getting a new crank)???.....also I still believe the damper has another 1/8" or so to be fully seated; why would it get so tight as to break the tool before sliding on? (This is a Snap On installer, not a cheapie.) Are all 383-400 balancers that tight?........Thanks in advance for replies.
I was going for the "easy outs", but this must be a hardened piece, as my titanium drill bits cannot drill through it It's in there flush with no part to partially grab and work it out......HELP.....any suggestions (other than getting a new crank)???.....also I still believe the damper has another 1/8" or so to be fully seated; why would it get so tight as to break the tool before sliding on? (This is a Snap On installer, not a cheapie.) Are all 383-400 balancers that tight?........Thanks in advance for replies.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I had 1 break in the crank too, fortunately a little was hanging out. The piece left in the crank won't be tight, it is much shorter than the threaded hole. Try using a thin screwdriver to walk it out. Spray a little lube in if necessary. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,018
Likes: 565
From: Conroe Texas
Originally Posted by GDaina
A sharp punch or a cold chisel will dig into it and should turn as you hammer on it....I would try a punch and start at the 11 o'clock position.
just take your time and it will walk out. had to do the same thing last winter to mine.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,923
Likes: 733
From: Youngstown Ohio
Thanks for your replies.......bought a reverse drill bit extractor today; will try a sharp punch to turn/hammer it first...will try to tack weld an attachment on the stuck piece as a last resort....
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Get a nut and plug weld it on the piece that's still in the crank. I'd use anti spatter spray on the crank to be safe
thats a helluva a good tip! never thought of it, but i bet i try it next time im in a tight spot
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 3
From: Burlington WI
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Get a nut and plug weld it on the piece that's still in the crank. I'd use anti spatter spray on the crank to be safe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 2
From: Long Island New York
I did this several months back, had the same thing happen to me. Get a reverse drill bit, drill a pilot hole in the center of the broken bolt and tap the the reverse bit in about 1/2" and back it out with a small combination wrench or an adjustable wrench. It should come right out, the bolt that comes in those damper installation kits are softer than you think. Did you just replace your timing chain?, if so the crankshaft gear is probably not seated all the back on the crankshaft, that was the problem on mine. Pull the timing chain cover and make sure it it all the back on the shaft. If it doesn't want to go check to make sure the woodriff key is not in on an angle and causing it to hang up. The woodriff key must be straight and it will go on with no problem. Also be sure to oil up your timing chain real well before putting the cover back on. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,923
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by supervette77
I did this several months back, had the same thing happen to me. Get a reverse drill bit, drill a pilot hole in the center of the broken bolt and tap the the reverse bit in about 1/2" and back it out with a small combination wrench or an adjustable wrench. It should come right out, the bolt that comes in those damper installation kits are softer than you think. Did you just replace your timing chain?, if so the crankshaft gear is probably not seated all the back on the crankshaft, that was the problem on mine. Pull the timing chain cover and make sure it it all the back on the shaft. If it doesn't want to go check to make sure the woodriff key is not in on an angle and causing it to hang up. The woodriff key must be straight and it will go on with no problem. Also be sure to oil up your timing chain real well before putting the cover back on. Hope this helps.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 1
center a nut about the same size as the broken bolt over the bolt. the inside of the nut where the threads are should be smaller than the broken bolt outside diameter. take a welder and weld the inside of the nut hole to the face of the broken bolt. there is alot more area to weld on the inside of the nut than you think. the suggestion to use an anti-splatter spray is a decent idea, but if you are careful....
after the nut is welded to the broken bolt, take an appropriate sized wrench and twist the nut and broken bolt combination out.
i have done many plug welds, but never on a broken bolt to get it out; never thought of it until it was mentioned here.
after the nut is welded to the broken bolt, take an appropriate sized wrench and twist the nut and broken bolt combination out.
i have done many plug welds, but never on a broken bolt to get it out; never thought of it until it was mentioned here.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,923
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by seaboltm
center a nut about the same size as the broken bolt over the bolt. the inside of the nut where the threads are should be smaller than the broken bolt outside diameter. take a welder and weld the inside of the nut hole to the face of the broken bolt. there is alot more area to weld on the inside of the nut than you think. the suggestion to use an anti-splatter spray is a decent idea, but if you are careful....
after the nut is welded to the broken bolt, take an appropriate sized wrench and twist the nut and broken bolt combination out.
i have done many plug welds, but never on a broken bolt to get it out; never thought of it until it was mentioned here.
after the nut is welded to the broken bolt, take an appropriate sized wrench and twist the nut and broken bolt combination out.
i have done many plug welds, but never on a broken bolt to get it out; never thought of it until it was mentioned here.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 209
Likes: 8
From: Hollywood FL
I had exactly the same thing happen not too long ago. I was able to push the part that came out against the part still in the crank and slowly turn it out. The two surfaces matched up and the threads were loose so that worked for me.
If that doesn't work, here's another idea you might try. Put a drop of Super Glue on the broken surface and glue the halves together. If the half in the crank is fairly loose, you might just get lucky.
If that doesn't work, here's another idea you might try. Put a drop of Super Glue on the broken surface and glue the halves together. If the half in the crank is fairly loose, you might just get lucky.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,490
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From: A high school diploma fixing what a college degree broke TN
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Get a nut and plug weld it on the piece that's still in the crank. I'd use anti spatter spray on the crank to be safe
I realize you aren't doing exactly the same thing,but keep in mind where you ground everything 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 751
Likes: 32
From: Woburn,ma ma
same problem
I had the same thing happen to me, after I installed the damper. I tried to weld a grade 8 bolt to the broken piece, and that snapped. I GRINDED the section flush where the bolt goes into the crank and left it like that, I didn't want to take the chance of not drilling strait. and having to remove the crank, seeing mines a stroker and balance is a bit more important.. so I quess the only way to do a cam swap will be to remove the crank..