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Setup = centerforce Clutch, PP and throwout bearing. Lake wood bellhousing and clutch fork with adjustable ball stud, Speed Direct linkage and a 64-65 M20.
I thought that the problem was with the fork hitting the firewall. However I ground down the firewall and connected everything together. I can see the clutch fork through the hole in the floor that I ground out. IT IS NOT MOVING AT ALL WHEN APPLYING PRESSURE TO THE PEDAL!!!!! I have already had to bend the frame side cross bar bracket back after bending it with pressure applied by the pedal.
What is going on? Throwout bearing stuck on the input shaft? Fork incoreectly adjusted? Always something!!!11
sounds like you got the fork too far forward...basically in a stuck position. try backing off the pivot ball since you got the adjustable type..but i'd actually recommend getting a GM short ball since you got the speed direct adjustable clutch linkage. that way you don't have to worry about that loosy adjustable pivot ball.
I'd suggest making sure the bracket on the frame end of the ZBar is not on backwards....which will make it ****-eyed...been there-done that!
I have seen the push rod with an welded on extension to solve this problem...but I don't like that myself.
I've got a 71 Muncie in an '81 vette and it ruined my whole summer getting that sucker to work....many many considerations.....incidentially, you DO know that if you had a automatic, you'll have to change computers...if that applies to you.
being in Charlotte, I can suggest a good shop that could handdle this.
Corvettes, Etc., Charlotte, NC 4927 Wilkinson Blvd. 28208- Dub",good vette work 704-394-5150
Dub will give you good advice. Does good work but charges are a little high for my blood.
If you choose this route, I'd go by and see him in person. He's ugly, but he's real good. Jim
Thanks Jim. I do know this guy and know what you mean. I am a do it yourselfer so I will keep working on it. I am pretty sure I have the frame bracket mounted correctly. The shaft rotates freely with no binding.
RedShark,
So you are saying that I may need to shorten the ball a little more? Also I am not sure that a stock ball will work with a lakewood bell housing.
I am about ready to give up and pull the trannie and get a stock fork. I would go ahead and do this but the problem that I am having now seems to be related to adjustment and not the fact that I am using an aftermarket fork. Course I could be wrong. This job is driving me NUTS!!!!
Is it possible that although the cross shaft arm rotates freely between the engine ball stud and the mount that I bolted on that I may still have a geometry problem that is affecting the engagement of the clutch? If the mount is off it isn't by much....
A picture is worth 1,000 words, can you snap a few pics?
Only thing I can think of is if the fork is too long and wedging the throught bearing against the inut shaft bearing retainer. Does the linkage move freely if you unhook the z-bar from the fork?
I am going to snap some pics tonight and post them. I can't figure out why this thing is being such a problem. I know others have used this setup without problems..
Well I did not get any pictures last night but I did revisit the mount on the frame and although the cross shaft rotated on the mount ball the bracket was a good bit off of where it should have been.
I pulled up the pics that Jclgodale3 sent me and I actually had the bracket on backwords. That definately explained why it was bending so easy. I hope to hook the linkage back up tonight and with any luck the clutch will engage.
I posted asome pics a while back of my throw out bearing installed on the clutch fork and everyone that viewed it said it looked ok. I cannot see how it would be possible but could the bearing be installed wrong? There is a thin lip and then a thick lip and it looked like it would only fit in one way. I matched it up with the pics on the centerforce instruction sheet and it looked correct. I also made sure that the little tabs on the fork fit inside the channel on the bearing and not outside which was what the centerforce instructions warned against.
If the mount relocation does not work this time I guess I will be pulling the trannie back out after all......
From a few posts, I gather that there is a problem when using a Lakewood housing and fork. Several have indicated that a stock fork should be used. Also, Centerforce gives a dimension between the nose of the ball stud and the engine. Make sure this is correct, otherwise you will not have enough adjustment on the rod.
I used a CF II clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing with a stock bell housing and clutch fork. Dimension that CF wanted was ok, bolted everything together, and no problems.