My car needed an allignment, so before taking it in, I replaced the strut rods to adjustable ones. Afterwards I could hear some very light squeaking and grinding sound from the right rear wheel.

While it was being alligned, the tech. could move the right rear wheel in and out about 1/2". I could see the yoke in the differential moving in and out, but it does not leak.

After the allignment, after I turn a corner, I can hear very distinct grinding in the right rear and then it like it slides back in place and the grind goes away.

So, I will be doing a rear bearing rebuild soon and I need to know how much play should side yokes in the differential have?

How do you replace the side yokes and what is the best replacment brand or style?

I am a little frustrated, this will be my third time tearing into the rear in a little over a year. I wish now I just dropped the complete rear and rebuilt it all from the begining.

Any Comments...

Audie
74 L-82 Coupe
383 Stroker

 

Side yoke removal requires disassembly of most of the differential, so you should have the entire assembly checked while you're there (i.e. differential clutches, change fluid, new cover gasket, etc.). Several years ago I removed my differential and took it to my trusted Corvette-owning mechanic to have the entire assembly rebuilt (including replacement of yokes, bearings, crush sleeve, etc.). At that time, it was around $300 labor and $300 in parts (I bought the high quality titanium yokes). It will obvioulsy cost more today. Buy the best quality yokes you can afford, particularly if you plan to keep the car. Hope this helps.

 

UH OH!....

 

I had that problem awhile back as well. However, mine had not eaten all the way through the seals yet. I had a lot of play, but it had not started grinding yet. So I got out with two new yokes and two new seals on the rear. I did get my man to take the rear off and he replaced a couple of things in there that had worn with age. I say I made it out good though.

 

1/2" play is dangerous. That much play means the C-clip that goes on the inside of the yoke has worn or fallen off and nothing is holding the yoke in.

Normal play for a new or rebuilt assembly is 0.005"-0.015". Good used play is no more than 0.040 to MAYBE 0.050.

 

Rebuilt yokes with the 01 tool steel buttons are very good and will NOT wear out like normal case hardened yokes.
While 1/2 inch is certainly in the dangerous area .050 can be taken out with proper clutch pack adjustment

 

It doesn't happen often but this is a case where I have to, regrettably, disagree with Norval. If you tried to add clutch pack shims to get rid of 050 play the spider gears would be grinding badly and probably self destruct. When Mike (Tracdogg2) set of diff he tought me that you don't adjust yoke play. Instead you set up the spider gears to the correct backlash (0.001-0.002) and the yoke play is what it is. As long as the yokes and center pin are good the yoke play will be less than 0.015".

 

.500 ia way too much. If indedeed they are worn that much the ends will be past the snap ring groove,which is .187" from the end. If it were mine or a job I took on I would rebuild it just because the oil has all that metal dust in it.
If they are the orignal '74 clutches they are the snowflakes and are junk. If you go that far you might as well install solid steel clutches they are better then the snowflakes or the new fiber clutches in my opinion.
Setting up the clutches according to the manual leaves a lot of play and the 4 springs add continual load. You can end up with a good or bad posi. As most of the old timers here know I prefer to set them up WITHOUT the 4 springs and have never had one break or have clutch chatter on one of my setups- I know I just jinxed myself!!!
Norval is correct in you will remove more end play because the clutch plates will "stack" up thicker in the carrier. However this is done not to reduce the yoke end play but the properly set up the clutches. There are some mods that I outline in my paper that help when setting these up this way. There is no load on them under normal drivign condition but the posi will still lock up when required.
Using the hardened tip yokes from one of the aftermarket suppliers will be all you need. I buy them from Muskegon but any of the vendors will have them. They do vari in size as this isn't tool room technology at work here. I've had rebuilt posi's where the yokes were too tight and hitting the center pin. I then use a surface grinder to set them to .002-.005" I like a little play in them. Others went together and had up to .010"

Good luck

Gary

 

Gary-

Don't you mean you set the posi up WITHOUT the springs?

 

Like Gary said if you still have the original (eared) clutches they are junk and probably broke. As the clutches wear the backlash increases on the spider gears. This ends up slamming the cross shaft against the posi case and enlongating the holes. Too tight and the gears will bind.
The problem with setting it up yourself is having to buy all the shims. You'll end up with 16 shims you don't need.
I prefer to use the new hardened stub axles over the rebuilt ones. The whole axle is hardened instead of just the pressed-in tip. I can get you the best price on these and anything else you may need. I can also do any set-up work if you want.

Mike

 

Silver,
Thanks buddy, that was a typo. I can rebuilt a vette much better then I can type!

Gary

 

Zwede we are talking about the same thing. We agree. All older vets on the road have excess play in the spider gears, Back lash is way off. By just simpley shimming the axle gears and bringing the backlash of the spider gears down to a few thou you remove about .050 in yoke endplay.
Gary taught me not to use the springs and I will not use them again in any rebuild. I also don't use crush sleeves. I prefer solid spacers.

 

 

Maybe this will help. This is a posi overhaul kit I sell. If you have the solid steel clutches as shown in this kit you can mic them up to compare wear. If you don't have this type I'd replace them.



Gary

 

I don't know what Gary charges for this kit but it is worth it. Doug did his rearend by buying the parts individually and he paid $175 for the posi clutches alone and $110 for just a few axle shims.
Gary puts a good kit together

 

Gary, what do you ask for your kit? What is the paper you referenced? Do you sell this or share it?

Audie

 

I was selling the kits at Carlisle for $150 and sold the last one to a forum member a couple of weeks ago. I have the parts coming in now to build more but my cost went up on them(like everything these days) to $165 + UPS. I include instructions in the kit for "tuning" them the way I do. If you PM me your email I'll get you the rebuilding paper I wrote,there's no charge for it!

Gary

 

No, not really. I performed a good deal of research at the time and these were among the best (about 9 years ago). They held up very well and this particular car was sold a few years ago anyway.

 

Somehow I got lucky and the c-clip was just missing - causing the excess movement. I replaced it and it came into the specified range (i think I remember .015 yoke play).
I got lucky. I also had a shop give it a blessing before reassembly and getting it fitted back into the car.

From everything I have heard gtr1999 - is the way to go on the diff.
What he says - do it and you wont regret it. Gary - do you also offer rebuild services as well?

 

Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it I do rebuild them as well for forum and local guys who want a custom job.
Gary