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I'm new to the C3, I've only owned my '71 for about six months. Anyway, it was undriven for about five years, which meant every part in the power steering was leaking. Last week I got it back from the mechanic with the following parts replaced:
Power Steering Cylinder (New From Mid America)
New Power Steering Hoses
Power Steering Control Valve (Rebuilt-Mid America Motorworks, work was done in Lainesville, PA according to the shipping container)
New Steering Box (Rebuilt Mid America)
Alignment was done with the power steering was fixed.
Also, I had to have the steering shaft replaced in the car (long story) and while I was at it the rag joint and both the upper and lower couplers were replaced. The pump is original, but appears to be working fine.
Here is the issue. The steering is now somewhat stiff, almost like manual steering. More specifically, it's stiffer in the center of the wheel. As I turn the wheel either to the left or right it becomes easier to steer at any speed. I'm not sure if it's helpful, but resistance is equal in either direction, that is, it is not harder to turn the wheel left than it is to turn it right. Honestly, I like the new steering, it is extremely exact and ended the unresponsive steering the car had when I first bought it.
Here are my questions:
(1) The mechanic thought my new cylinder was possibly the problem. I suspect it's the new steering box. Any opinions?
(2) Am I doing any damage to my Corvette driving it this way? Will I prematurely damage the gears in my new steering box?
(3) So far the steering is the best it's ever been. My old, leaking steering box gave light steering, but it was exteremely unresponsive and made the car easy to oversteer. If I find a way to return light steering will I have the same problem? That is, the easier the car is to steer the less exact the steering?
(4) How do I adjust the steering box? Is it difficult? Remember I'm a completely novice, so any pointers you might have would be appreciated.
- When steering gets loose in the center, you tighten the steering box. Perhaps yours is somewhat too tight. You can easily adjust it. Just loosen the screw/nut combination in the center of the box and turn the screw CCW (should be only 1/4 turn or so). If you have "play" in the center, you went too far. Don't forget to retighten the jamb nut.
- There might be some sort of "break-in" period for steering boxes. Maybe someone else knows about this.
- If the cylinder is unresponsive, it could be low pump pressure but I don't know how you would check it. Pump rebuild kits are only about $20 at NAPA.
Corvette boxes are a little tigher in the straight ahead position...they were designed that way. This was explained to me by Corvette Sterring Service when they rebuilt my box. Your may be so noticable since its so tight. Before I sent my box to CSS, I purchased a rebuilt box and it was so tight it felt like manual sterring. I took it off and checked the specs with a torque wrench...the readings were way past GM's recommnded settings. While I only have limited knowledge on this subject, I agree with the previous post...your box sounds like its too tight, which will probably lead to premature wear of the gear.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Mine is all new, except for the steering box. But it too is quite stiff, compared to other cars w/power assist. Remember two things: It is a sports car, designed to alow the 'road feel' of a sports car. Second: the steering is an old style RAM type, there is no power steering through the gearbox. This type of system does not afford the amount of assist that new styles do.
Where and when did you purchase your ram? Was it new or rebuilt? I am almost convinced it was the steering gear, but your post made me reconsider the ram. It's difficult to tell since all of the parts were replaced at the same time and either could cause the problem.
In any case, I'm going to call Mid America on Monday and see if they can help me out.
The mechanic screwed up the adjustment proceedure of your steering box. If it is getting tight and hard towadrds the center, the nut that sets freeplay in the box has been run too far inward in the adjustment proceedure.
The gears inside your steering gear were designed with a small bit of interference exactly on center. There is actually clearance designed into the gear fit either side of center and out to full lock. When you are adjusting the pitman shaft (by loosening the jam nut and turning the screw in the center of the aluminum cover) you must make the adjustment with the gear set exactly on center. If someone tried to eliminate the clearance off center, you will have unacceptable friction on center and you can even ruin the gears.
The correct way to adjust the gear is to take it out of the car and adjust it using an inch-lb torque wrench. The procedure and specs are listed in the Chevrolet Shop Manuals.
Another way to set the adjustment is to carefully do it in the car, driving it a short distance and readjusting. Here is a link to the paper that describes that adjusting procedure:
This might help you. Here is a steering box apart. The pitman shaft is at the top and you can see it has a partial pinion on it. The worm nut is the rack. The teeth are tapered so as you adjust the lash screw you're either pushing the tapered teeth together or pulling them away. The resulting "play" will be felt and correct adjustment is obtained by first setting the worm shaft bearing preload, I set them to 3-5 in/lbs of rotation. Then when assembled, adjust the lash as you rotate the worm from end to end. I start at one end then about 2 turns in it should start to get snug on center. Use the torque wrench to set the total to between 10-14 in/lbs. I usually set them to 11-12 for a good feel and not too tight. If if a manual box that's going into a road car I'll set them a little snugger to the drivers feel. The tighter you set them the faster they will wear out. Don't go over 14 in/lbs and don't set it where it will bind. If you can't get the adjustment and the pitman shaft is down and bottomed out, the center tooth on the pitman shaft is worn out. You will need at least a new shaft,if not a complete gear set-$200
Since you have a "rebuilt" box maybe you just need a good adjustment but that should have been done. There is no break in required. Some of the rebuilt boxes sent to me were not in very good shape other then a paint job and new grease- no internal parts were replaced, settings were way off.
One quick question about how tight your steering is: When you are in a turn, if you release the steering wheel will the wheels return to straight on their own? If the answer to that question is "NO" then your steering box is too tight!! After overadjusting mine I had to back it off an 1/8 of a turn. Otherwise it will wear out pretty quick.
The gears inside your steering gear were designed with a small bit of interference exactly on center. There is actually clearance designed into the gear fit either side of center and out to full lock. When you are adjusting the pitman shaft (by loosening the jam nut and turning the screw in the center of the aluminum cover) you must make the adjustment with the gear set exactly on center. If someone tried to eliminate the clearance off center, you will have unacceptable friction on center and you can even ruin the gears.
The correct way to adjust the gear is to take it out of the car and adjust it using an inch-lb torque wrench. The procedure and specs are listed in the Chevrolet Shop Manuals.
Another way to set the adjustment is to carefully do it in the car, driving it a short distance and readjusting. Here is a link to the paper that describes that adjusting procedure:
Thanks for all the replies, now for an update. It turns out it wasn't the steering gear. After driving it for about two weeks now and deliberately taking sharper turns then I normally do, the seering has definitely loosen up considerably. One of the parts in the power steering must have need to break it. I have no idea which one. I'll post here if anything else develops.