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I read two scenarios. When rebuilding an engine with fresh new parts use either a feeler gauge or the push pull method on the push rod until lash is zero then tighten .5-.75 turns on the nut. The other scenario is when the engine has been driven is to start the car until warmed up, and while the engine is still on remove the valve cover and loosen the rocker nut until you hear it clatter. Tighten slowly until clatter goes away then tighten .5-.75 turns. It's messy even with rocker arms splash guards.
I tried both methods and the push pull did not work for me, it seems the lifters bleed down a bit when they are worn causing excessive backfire at high RPM. Apparently the lifters pumped up. The second method worked like a charm.
I've always spun the engine a little to pump the hydraulic lifters up when adjusting valve lash...
Is that really necessary?
It should not be necessary. The lifters have a spring inside that should keep the plunger at the top even without any oil. I would adjust them using the "up-n-down" pushrod method where you just take out the slack and then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn farther. Then try pushing down on the tops of the rocker arms over the pushrod cups with your hands. You can feel the plunger compress if you push hard enough and the lifter is on the base circle. This will give you confidence in the adjustment. This is actualy a bit easier without the oil in the lifter but it will work either way. You will get plenty of oil in the lifters when you pre-oil before startup.
First off, hydraulic lifters should have no "lash" second, of all the hydraulic camshafts I've installed stock or performance it was never neccessary to adjust any of them running
thanks all...they're adjusted..I knew how to do the adjustment, just wasn't sure about the lifter needing a bump..stingr69 made it clearest to me...springs, good idea..
and yellow 72, they're my lifters, I'll call it lash if I wanna...