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I'm still working on my 76 electrical problem. I know the ground strap is on the passenger side and is on the underside fo the engine mount but what does the strap look like and where does it start and end? I need more info since I'm mechanical challenged. Feel my pain
Unfortunately I don't know where the ground strap is on these cars but I do know that it will look almost like a braided steel line. It will normally be from block to chasis.
From a 73 AIM, the ground strap attaches to the passenger side motor mount frame bracket and the other end attaches to the top of the starter brace where it bolts to the block.
Both attachements use one of those star washers. On the motor mount frame bracket there is a seperate hole in the side that accepts the end of the ground strap, a bolt, the start washer, and a nut. The bolt is inserted through the hole from the outside of the bracket. On the inside of the bracket, the start washer goes on next, followed by the ground strap, and then the nut.
On the starter brace, the ground strap goes next to the bolt head, followed by the star washer, then through the top hole in the starter brace and into the block.
the ground strap looks like braided steel (or copper) wire but it is flat with factory ends designed to accept a bolt.
I have a few posts on the forum but they all relate to one problem, car has gas, low spark (orange) and cranks but will not fire. Everything except the pick up coil has been replaced in the dist. With each part replaced, one at a time, the car would start right up but it would not again after a few days. This was my process of elimination. The battery is new, alternator was checked when it ran and is ok. Spark plugs changed last year but not the wires. Carb is rebuilt rochester installed last April. I just tested the batt wire into the distributor and it read 12.7 V with the ignition on. When I cranked it, it drops to 9V. Is this a ground problem? If so which ground and what do you recommened I look for next? The engine ground strap is tight and brand new. Also battery ground cable is not loose or corrodid. Thanks again, Gary
Two more things I forgot to mention. I replaced the egnition switch last weekend and no fire, 3 weeks ago I applied dielectric grease to the the washer between the coil and the dist cap and it started but the next day, no fire.
The car started and we drove it for 4-5 days, it idled low and drove very rough, engine shaking at idle, not much punch when I stepted on the gas but after 40mph it drove much better, smoother, quiter and more relaxing. The exhaust is new and no catalitic conv. What does gas foul to the plugs mean? I am not pumpjing the gas pedal when I try to start the engine. The smeall of gas is strong without touching the pedal. There is no problem with the choke.
It is possible the pick up is bad and has made the control module go out. That's the reason for changing both at the same time, one can cause the other to go out. The color of the spark does tend to point toward the coil but you said there is a voltage drop while cranking. Have you checked the battery voltage while cranking? It is possible for the battery to show 12+ volts sitting idle and the n drop to 8 or 9 when you put a load on it. If the battery shows twelve volts when cranking, run a hot wire from the + side of the battery to the positive side of the coil then try to start the car. If the car starts and runs correctly you have eliminated the distrib coil etc... Iw ould do this and then post back.