Ok, I want to trade out my TH350 for a 2004R. I have an 80. I also have a TPI setup on the engine, which does have a TCC hookup on the wiring harness. My question is, what else do I need to complete this swap on my car?

Thanks

 

there is another thread on this running somewhere

 

not sure on the 2004r on my 700r4 i needed a TV cable and bracket, and the shift console detent, i understand you do not need a new trans crossmember. i also had to put in the correct solenoid and wiring inside the 700r4 for my application.

 

u also need a trans yoke and stall converter. on your trans crossmember u just need to notch it so u can get a tool on the rear pan bolt

 

You need a locking torque converter. "Stall" converter is a misnomer -- all converters have a stall speed -- some are higher than others.

 

You also will need a new crossmember. The crossmembers only will work upto a 79 they changed in 80. I recently did the swap and I bought the crossmember from Bowtie the rest I got locally.

Kona

 

I got badly caught out on this. If your x-member is the same as an '81 (& I think '80 & '81 had the same type that required both exhaust pipes to run down the passenger side) then you WILL need a custom x-member. The stock one was nowhere near being in the right place to mount the trans. The good news is that the BTO x-member is shaped so that you can run true duals under the car.
What I bought to convert my '81 was:

Custom x-member
The trans (obviously!)
2200rpm heavy duty locking converter
TV Made EZ kit
Shifter conversion kit
Dipstick & tube
Inspection cover
Professional installers kit: consists of
Pressure gauge (makes TV setup simple)
Trans temp sender & gauge (recommended)
In-line filter.

Don't bother with the inspection cover as it's for 153 tooth flexplates (ours are 168). Apparently the stock Th350 one can be subtly altered to fit (ie. beaten severely with a large hammer).
The installers kit may not seem worthwhile when you order the trans, but it really does make installation a lot easier & safer for the trans (the filter guards against old crud in the rad getting into the trans & the temp gauge is worth having if you're running too hot - and how will you know that without a gauge?!!).
Somewhere in the archives I posted a "200-4r installation - lessons learnt" post (or something named like that) which covered installation on my '81. I'd expect the '80 to be very simiilar so it'd be worth reading.

 

UKpaul's words of wisdom to me
got u covered Paul

I found it easier to fit the dipstick tube once the trans was bolted to the engine. By raising/lowering the rear (prior to fitting the x-member) you can get the trans in a position where the tube can be wiggled in from the top. Before you do this you MUST test fit the tube to the trans while it's out of the car. There's a tab on the tube that lines up with one of the trans mounting bolts. On my new tube the tab was nowhere near in line with the bolt hole. Trying to bend it into position while it was all fited to the car was near impossible, but is a simple job to do with the trans on the bench/floor.
I tried to fit the trans in the car with the diptick tube fitted & couldn't do it. You have to make sure the trans lines up with the converter, support its weight while carefully positioning it and so on, yet you've also got to keep a check on a tube out of sight above that's doing its best to rip all the wiring & pipes off of the firewall. It's probably be OK if you've got lots of people to help (who you trust!) but doing it it with just one person directing me (up, down, left, etc) we found that the dipstick tube was just a complete pita if fitted. It's not difficult fitting it once the trans is bolted up to the engine, it's just a case of jiggling the tube about, raise/drop the trans slightly, push it in further, and so on until it's in place. Took me a few mins to do...... then 2 days to bend that stupid mounting tab for it so that I could get the bolt through it!
Apart from that, the most awkward thing was getting to the 2 top bolts that hold the trans to the engine. Best way I found was to drop the rear of the trans down as low as you can & then you can use a 1/2" drive socket wrench with a pair of 10" extensions & a "wobble" fitting. If you "go in" from the rear of the trans & along its top then those bolts are easy. Trying to get to them from the side of the trans (the natural place to try) is possible, but you'll probably lose a lot of blood (and your temper)!!
The instructions say to remove the dist to prevent any danger of it hitting the firewall when changing out the trans. This just causes more work, so what I did was very, very carfully lower the rear of the trans (after removing the x-member) until the dist was as close as I dared to the firewall. Then I got some large blocks of wood & an axle stand & positioned them under the rear of the engine so that they'd support it securely. This stops the engine tilting so far back that the dist hits the firewall & you won't have to keep checking if the dist is in danger of being damaged while tilting up/down the trans/engine. It's also security if you drop the trans, or the x-member while under there.
I reckon, having done it, I could do most of it in a day now. If I hadn't spent a couple of weeks cleaning & painting underneath (while I was at it ), or had a glitch with the x-member (a problem with '81's), it would have taken a weekend to do. One cooler line fitted straight in, but the other needed some bending & coaxing to fit, so that could cause a holdup (as I also simultaneously fitted Headers that needed clearing, I gave up with it & got a new pipe made). Just take it easy, be very careful with the oil seal & you should find it an easy job to do. I'd never touched an auto trans in my life & found it a simpler job than swapping the intake manifold (but with heavier bits!). Suggest you get some new UJ's for the driveshaft (unless you know yours are good) as I found mine were slightly worn, which was another delay while waiting for new ones. Also, take notice of all the warnings about it being imperative to get the TV cable set up correctly, it the most important part of the job. A pressure guage is the best way.
Once fittted you'll love the 200-4r. Best thing I ever did to mine, by far. I can now cruise at 70mph without guzzling gas, or blowing my ear-drums out with the exhaust noise! And the surprise on C4/5 owners faces when you cruise up next to them at 3 figure speeds with the engine purring along is almost worth the time and money in itself

 

Wow, I just got an email notification & thought "Geez, somebody writes longer posts than me", then I saw it WAS mine
Ross, can you do me a favor & change that typing error to 70mph (our national speed limit)?

edit: 3 figure speeds refers to kph

 

Done Good Buddy

 

The BTO crossmember positions the engine & tranny correctly. Some people had problems with their fans hitting the bottom of the shroud if the modified xmember holds the tranny too high.

Also, hook up the tv cable prior to install. The tranny lines are also a bear. Try to hook them up before you jack the tranny all the way up. Once its up there is no room to hook up the lines.

You might consider cutting the wings off the side of the tranny. A reputable 700r4 user on the forum (George but I forgot his screen name) recommended that for better clearance.

 

I measured the position of the yoke after installation & Justind (Dallanex) measured the same on his stock Th350C. The BTO x-member places it in exactly the same position as stock. The onlt difference was that there was more of the shaft protruding from the 200-4r than there was with the Th350C (but still far enough in the trans for posive engagement on the splines). From memory, I think the shaft protruded by about 3/4" more than it did with the Th350C. This applies to an L81, I guess the '80 would be the same.
Cheers Ross

 

Thanks for all the advice guys!