With all the talk of SB427's I'm starting to think about what I'm going to do to old reliable next July when I get back from deployment. The M-21'S coming out in favor of a TKO-600, suspension redid and I was planning a simple refresh of the short block. What combos if any are available and remember I'm looking to retain the matching#'s block w/ 2.02 heads (291X).

 

Bag the 327ci and put in a 406ci you won't regret it

 

Have thoughts about it. Have a friend with a 427sb but I'm honestly happy with my L-79's performance aside from the occasional blue smoke.

 

Dave, just trying to help here, there are rebuild kits out there for 327's but in regards to stroking a 327ci it really isn't worth the effort since you will come out with something similar in size to a 350ci and there a 10 million 350 motors out there to rebuild.

That's why you won't find alot of stroker kits for a 327ci, just isn't worth it when you can pick up a running 350 ci for 500 bucks and rebuild that instead or stroke that out to a 383ci.

 

Dave,
At the risk of offending Motorhead, he's wrong about "not many kits for stroking 327's". Both the 327 and 350 Chevs have virtually identical blocks. A 327 is just a 4.00 inch block with a stroke of 3.25". A 350 is just a 4.00" block with a stroke of 3.48". With both engines having 5.7" long con rods, the only real difference in the engines is the throw of the crankshaft and the pistons. While the bore is the same, the pin height is different in the pistons.

Scat make a crankshaft with a 3.75" stroke and with a stock bore will give any 4.00" bore engine a capacity of 377 cubic inches. With a 0.030" overbore, you get around 383 cubic inches. Make sure you get the correct pistons with the crank, you should be able to purchase a complete Kit to turn any 327 or 350 into a 383.

That will give you heaps more torque and with matching numbers to boot.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

 

You can also get the 427 cube rotating assemblies for your block. However, the block will require extensive relieving. Just bag your stock block and get the complete 427.

 

With the stock heads anything over 383 would be a waste. They will not flow enough air unless you port the heads. The 327 and 350 block are the same just different cranks. Whatever can be done to a 350 can be done to your 327. A 383 would be a nice upgrade to the ol 327.

 

Model Year 1968 had two major changes to 327 ... the main bearing bore in block increased in diameter ... the rod bearing bore in rods increased in diameter. I've heard that some 67 production 327 blocks appeared in 68 cars. A later crank will not drop in an early block. Most stroker cranks use the later, larger diameters. It's true that a 350 stroker kit will work in a 327 ... so long as that 327 has the later, larger diameters.

If you want more motor & your 327 is a number match to the car, I suggest you bag 327 & stow it. Same position if it's heads are a date match to block. Once you ruin a number match motor (and they do get ruined) it can never be truly replaced. Get a core/junkyard sbc 350 or 400 and build it. If your 327 is not a match and it has later larger diameters ... get yourself a 383 stroker kit w/ dished pistons.

 

A 327 and 350 block is the same after 68, except for 4 bolts offered on the 350's, so if you buy a 350 stroker kit, the result is the same on the 327, 383 inches.

 

No offence taken, I for some reason assumed a small journal 327

 

I agree with Motorhead ! If you stroke that 327 and break your no's matching block, it would be a bad thing for sure. Very few 327's had 4 bolt mains. The 406 will make GOBS of torque and put a big grin on your face, without spending a ton of money.I doubt if your stock heads have hardened valve seats either. Not positive though. Good luck !!
Pops

 

Well u should have a larger journal (same as 350") 327 block and most 2 piece rear seal stroker kits should work with some clearancing.

But what is really cool is that pre '70 blocks have thick cyl wall castings and .060" overbore is common - for 388" or even more with 3.75" stroke. Sonic testing is cheap and may surprize u how much u can overbore. Heck even with a 3.48" stroke crank (stock 350") i expect boring to 360" min - as that would be ur cheapest upgrade. Hey throw in some 6" rods and u got good 327" rod geometry with 33 more cubes. And really if 1st time on engine build u'll have move fun with using what u have for parts and saving money than experimenting while spending a lot more.

I think porting the stock heads is good idea as u will still get good pwr for maybe less money and keep good car value. Just look at some of the highly mod'ed vettes or any car. Guys will pour a fortune into a car that will be worth less than a mostly stock car in descent condition let alone matching numbers.
I was talking with an engine builder the other day and he quoted me only $550 for head porting with the flow bench data to back it up. A little too inexpensive to believe but u need to shop around.
Some cars i saw at the old Carlsbad strip (now closed) had head porting done at Spring Valley machine shop. Those were iron stock heads where darn fast too - stop by c what they can do/charge. U could get in touch with them for block machine work too.
Ya, modern heads are better but old iron can be ported to flow well enough for a street/show/part-time reace car and have other value too.

Now installing a 5 speed kind'a goes opposite the original numbers idea Cali. I'm sure u know what u want but there are Muncie replacements that have steep low gears and a big spread to 4th to act like a 3sp with OD. That way u keep original value with good acceleration in lower gears and decent mpg/rpm on fwy - all for the price of gear set.
Well just an idea but if r ready to sell ur muncie please send me a PM as i can't resist - wish i had a muncie. BTW i still have my orignal 3.36 rear gear set to sell/swap. My '74 is a Borg Warner and fine for now but not for big torque - good thing Muncie is bolt-in replacement.

cardo0

 

Have anyone tried this one?
http://www.speedomotive.com/327%20SM...0383%20CID.htm

 

I believe that would apply only to small-journal (62-67 Vettes).

 

Cali,

I have a 68 as well and wanted to build up the org motor for a correct appearing engine, with more power. I was going to use it for cruising as well as an occasional trip to the dragstrip. But I was afraid of blowing up the org engine and then ruining the value of the car. So I pulled out the orig 327 in favor of a junk yard 350. I had another set of camel hump heads and rebuilt everything. Now the engine looks correct, (minus the numbers on the engine pad) and has way more power. I can beat on it all I want with no worries. Just my .02.

 

Might throw in a crate block and still have the original L-79 rebuilt if I ever need to do a quick sell.