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Setting rear camber

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Old 10-17-2005, 03:05 PM
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matthud
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Default Setting rear camber

I have seen all the guides written on the subject of rear end alignment. I see the notches on the camber adjusting bolts, some one said that they were 1 degree marks. But what do these marks line up with. Are they just relative markings? I have my strut rods off now, new bushings along with rebuilt bearings, and I would like to reassemble as close to the 0 degree camber mark as possible. Is this even possible, or will I have to go through the process of setting the camber after I reinstall it all. I would like to get it as close to 0 without having to do to much work so I can drive it over to an alignment shop and get computerized measurements done and dial them in at the shop.
Old 10-17-2005, 03:27 PM
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big_G
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The marks are relative, just set the wheels for maybe 3* positive camber off the ground (unless you have "Smart-Struts"). Roll vehicle on the ground about 10 feet and re-check camber visually. Re-adjust as necessary. If using Smart-Struts, adjust for 0* off the ground .G/L
Old 10-17-2005, 03:39 PM
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lars
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If you just want to get it close enough to get to the alignment shop, you can just eye-ball the camber - camber won't kill your tires, even if it's WAY off. It's toe that will destroy the tires: Get the toe as close as you can with a tape measure - within 1/8". If toe is way off, it will destroy a set of tires in no time.
Old 10-19-2005, 12:16 AM
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PEPresnell
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Default rear camber

with the car on the floor, use a carpenters level and set the wheels stright up and down, this will get you to the shop
Old 10-19-2005, 12:26 AM
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Retro78
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Originally Posted by PEPresnell
with the car on the floor, use a carpenters level and set the wheels stright up and down, this will get you to the shop
This can actually be a very accurate way of setting camber. There are charts available that have you use a feeler gauge between the rim and level so you can dial in the exact camber you want. Some of us do our own alignments with simple tools and patience. You can achieve excellent results this way. Those fancy computerized alignment machines are desgned for both production and accuracy. You can still get accuracy if you are willing to spend the time. As per the last post...cut a level down so that it rests on the outer rim. Set your camber so that it is level and you will be at 0. I bet that when you do get it on the alignment machine it will be bang on. But you also need to set tracking and toe if you wanted todo the complete job at home. Easily done with a metal pipe and a $20 laser level.

Last edited by Retro78; 10-19-2005 at 12:38 AM.

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