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I think I may have discovered why my motor was no longer firing. When I initially took the timing cover off with the motor at TDC, compression stroke the timing marks were close at 12 and 12 but not perfectly aligned. When I rotated the motor and aligned them perfectly at 6 and 12 the damper read 8 degrees BTDC. When I rotated them to the exact 12 and 12 positions the damper read 8 degrees BTDC.
When I reinstalled the cam/timing set I aligned the marks perfectly at 6 and 12 and the damper now reads 0 degrees, TDC exactly. Same when I rotate it to 12 and 12, 0 degrees TDC. It appears that somewhere along the line the timing jumped. At least thats what I'm hoping. I plan on putting everything back together this weekend and right now I'm confident it's going to start. I also put a second ground wire, 4 ga. copper stranded from the block to the frame.
Wasn't the cam ground with 4deg advanced built in and then it was intalled with an additional 4deg advance?
BTW wasn't the car running fine before that screech you heard? I don't think you found your problem, but I hope for your sakes I'm wrong. You've put alot of time into this.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by nastee383
Initially I am. Its a Cloyes double roller thats virtually brand new, no slack when installed.
??? well if it shows no signs of being stretched how it did it Jump? and if you really thought it did jump why are you using the same chain....i know you want a fix for this but you know something just doesn't sit right with me on this diagnois.
Last edited by bobs77vet; Oct 20, 2005 at 01:38 PM.
Wasn't the cam ground with 4deg advanced built in and then it was intalled with an additional 4deg advance?
BTW wasn't the car running fine before that screech you heard? I don't think you found your problem, but I hope for your sakes I'm wrong. You've put alot of time into this.
Good Luck.
When I initially took off the cover and the damper showed 8 degrees BTDC with the marks perfectly aligned I asked the question would 4 degrees fround in and 4 degrees advanced on the crank sprocket show 8 degrees on the damper. i never really got an answer to that question. but since I've been looking at it I don't believe it would. Even if you put the crank sprocket on in the advanced or retarded position the position of the keyway doesn't move, so the damper should not show a different reading. And the 4 degrees ground in isn't going to show on the damper. If I'm wrong, someone set me straight.
I'm thinking the starter kickback caused the timing to jump somehow. I know it fragged the starter. As for the good luck, I'm gonna need it. I'm optimistic because I haven't found anything else out of the ordinary.
??? well if it shows no signs of being stretched how it did it Jump? and if you really thinked it did jump why are you using the same chain....i know you want a fix for this but you know something just doesn't sit right with me on this diagnois.
I don't know. Because the timing set doesn't show any signs of any abnormalities. This could be wishful thinking but its (the timing misalignment) the only thing I've seen so far that isn't right.
On a new timing set there is no way it could jump without some visible damage somewhere so I would guess the timing "jump" occurred at the installation step. This is easy enough to do-ask me how I know! Now that you are certain everything is in proper alignment/timing that initial noise is the remaining question. Did you inspect the top oil gallery boss behind the cam gear?? Just maybe that initial noise was the chain grinding some of it off. On my Cloyes double roller install that boss had to be ground off a bit~.040 inch- to clear the chain. If there was interference you likely have some metal filings in your pan. Good luck.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You will only see the 4 degrees ground into the cam with a degree wheel not on the balancer. If you have the crank sprocket exactly at the 12 oclock position the balancer has to point to 0 degrees unless if has slipped
Last edited by MotorHead; Oct 20, 2005 at 01:59 PM.
Well, before you put it all back together..just drop in dist and fire it up for a second or two without front cover. Won't hurt anything other than sling a little oil if you run it too long. It's a lot easier than tearing it all apart again.
Still sounds a little wierd to me...not sure we have it yet either....
Didn't you do a compression test? If it jumped the compression will be affected.
On a new timing set there is no way it could jump without some visible damage somewhere so I would guess the timing "jump" occurred at the installation step. This is easy enough to do-ask me how I know! Now that you are certain everything is in proper alignment/timing that initial noise is the remaining question. Did you inspect the top oil gallery boss behind the cam gear?? Just maybe that initial noise was the chain grinding some of it off. On my Cloyes double roller install that boss had to be ground off a bit~.040 inch- to clear the chain. If there was interference you likely have some metal filings in your pan. Good luck.
I guess it could have happened at installation. I just don't know. If it was during initial install that's even stranger because the motor WAS running before. The builder has all kinds of notes written all over this motor. On the cam sprocket he wrote "needs .060" so I assume they took .060 off the boss. It has a thrust bearing behind the sprocket so it wouldn't scrape any metal off anyway.
On a new timing set there is no way it could jump without some visible damage somewhere so I would guess the timing "jump" occurred at the installation step. This is easy enough to do-ask me how I know! Now that you are certain everything is in proper alignment/timing that initial noise is the remaining question. Did you inspect the top oil gallery boss behind the cam gear?? Just maybe that initial noise was the chain grinding some of it off. On my Cloyes double roller install that boss had to be ground off a bit~.040 inch- to clear the chain. If there was interference you likely have some metal filings in your pan. Good luck.
You will only see the 4 degrees ground into the cam with a degree wheel not on the balancer. If you have the crank sprocket exactly at the 12 oclock position the balancer has to point to 0 degrees unless if has slipped
Well it was at 8 now its at 0 at TDC, timing marks aligned. So hopefully it was a timing issue. I just cannot find anything else that didn't appear normal.
Well, before you put it all back together..just drop in dist and fire it up for a second or two without front cover. Won't hurt anything other than sling a little oil if you run it too long. It's a lot easier than tearing it all apart again.
Still sounds a little wierd to me...not sure we have it yet either....
Didn't you do a compression test? If it jumped the compression will be affected.
JIM
I'm not totally sure myself but... How would the cam timing affect cranking compression? As long as the piston is coming up and down it will have compression, right? But I guess the valves must be opening and closing at the right time to build compression. I see. I did a couple of comp. tests, 198 -201psi.
When I initially took off the cover and the damper showed 8 degrees BTDC with the marks perfectly aligned I asked the question would 4 degrees fround in and 4 degrees advanced on the crank sprocket show 8 degrees on the damper. i never really got an answer to that question. but since I've been looking at it I don't believe it would. Even if you put the crank sprocket on in the advanced or retarded position the position of the keyway doesn't move, so the damper should not show a different reading. And the 4 degrees ground in isn't going to show on the damper. If I'm wrong, someone set me straight.
What are you refering to? With #1 at TDC the mark on the balancer should be O*. Using a different keyway slot on the crank gear doesn't affect this, as you stated. The keyway affects the cam timing in relationship to the crank. In order to measure cam timing you need a degree wheel. I think it would be almost impossible for a tight chain and new gears to have it jump a tooth.
Its going to be interesting to see if it will fire up this time.
Well, before you put it all back together..just drop in dist and fire it up for a second or two without front cover. Won't hurt anything other than sling a little oil if you run it too long. It's a lot easier than tearing it all apart again.